OEM Evo9 oil feed and water lines work fine.

 

My set up

 

From the FP site:

Q. Why do people say it's not good to get oil feed for the turbo off the cylinder head? Should I use a filter on my oil supply line to my turbo?
A. There are plenty of people who have oiled their turbo off the head and not had any problems, there are just as many if not more that have done it and had recurring turbo failure that was only vaguely described by the repair shop as "poor lubrication".

Oil pressure in the cylinder head on a stock 4G63 engine can be less than 5psi at times, while this may be enough oil for a factory 14b, T25 or even 20g it isn't enough to feed the high volume oil passages of the modified thrust setup in your FPGreen or FPRed model turbo. The Garrett severe duty 360 thrust setups also have an increased appetite for lubrication. Think twice before feeding either of these type turbos from the head.

Remember that you aren't just trying to keep some oil on the bearing, you are trying to float one piece of metal above another piece of metal on a pressurized film of oil, and at the same time keep the whole mess cool enough not to melt. A constant high volume stream of oil does just that, a measly trickle will send you back to the turbo shop.

One exception to this is the Ballistic Concepts Ball Bearing CHRA from Garrett. These turbochargers are totally different internally. Their operation is actually impeded by too much oil. It is fine to supply these turbos with oil from the head. In fact the oil line we offer comes from the head and features a .8mm orifice to restrict the oil flow to the turbo . These turbos require water cooling in the absence of the typical high volume of oil that would normally provide stable temperatures.

As far as filters go, you're damned if you do and you're damned if you don't. You shouldn't need one in your oil line. Failures occur due to dirt/grit in the oil making it into the turbocharger. Failures also occur due to plugged filters. We have seen it both ways. If you are going to use a filter, check it often. The most important thing you can do to avoid oil contamination of you turbo is to THUROUGHLY wash everything more than once before assembling your engine. Avoid sandblasting anything that goes inside or onto the engine. Specifically avoid sandblasting your valve cover. If you suspect that the machine shop that did your valve job sandblasted your head then make sure you remove the 4 plugs from each end of the head that cover the ends of the oil gallies and wash the gallies out with HOT SOAPY WATER. If you do this you will be amazed at what comes out of your beautifully machined freshly rebuilt head.

If you think all that is a bunch of crap, at least spin the engine over to prime the oil system without the turbo attached so that anything in the gallies has a chance to flush out instead of flush into your new turbo.
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I'd just get a CBRD BBK and call it a day (and save a buck while your at it!)

 

is anyone using the stock wastegate with your FP Red? ive heard about some people using it with the green but how about with the red?

 

Im running the high pressure wastegate that came with the turbo. Why use stock wastegate? is there any reason to?

 

i sent in a ix turbo to get upgraded and it didnt come with a wastegate.

 

will a buschur deluxe fmic be fine for a red with a future goal of about 450 on pump?

 

ur turbo did come with a wastegate,, u mean the actuator..


u sent ur ix turbo to be upgraded to a red? Did you send off the wastegate actuator with it? If so, you might not be able to tell ur have the HP one visually. It does have some differences.

Best thing to do would be run wga at stock spring pressure and see if you have 18or so psi or 11or so psi then you will know what you have.

I dont think the red comes with anything other than the HP actuator.

 

Only if you buy it outright. If a core sent in you have to pay the $100 for the upgraded actuator.

 

I called FP and they said that was only for the Green turbo. they said the new actuator is 129.00 and they dont send out a 99.00 upgraded actuator for the Red like they did with the green. who knows but this is what i was just told.

 

buschur is good stuff....you'll be fine.....might wanna switch to the race core down the road though

 

got the HD actuator from FP and everything was put on and tuned yesterday and it made 451 hp and 417 tq @28 lbs on a Mustang Dyno. wanted to stay safe on a daily driven MR so i didnt go for more boost.

mod list:

Tanabe concept G blue turbo back
Spearco Front Mount intercooler
Injen Upper and Lower intercooler pipe kit
Injen Cold Air intake
Snow Stage 2 meth Kit running 33% meth
Cosworth 272 mivec cams
Forge manual Boost control
FP Red Turbo
ebay brake pads and slotted and drilled rotors
Megan ported 02 housing
Muse ported exhaust manifold
Act mb7-hdss clutch w/stock flywheel
Walbro fuel pump
FIC 1050 cc injectors
e85 tune

 

Is really necessary an ignition amplifier for the red? I read that the stock ignition is not good for +450hp... is that true? I am waiting for my rebuilt Red turbo from FP.

 

Two questions for you sir:
1. You are running Meth AND E-85?
2. Who's Mustang Dyno did you use for these numbers?

I'll be dropping my car off next Thurs for a tune with almost the exact same mods, but only on E-85.