Originally Posted by stikiller214

ULL LEARN ALOT IN THESE THREADS

Originally Posted by brodienuchies

Your numbers are coming soon? What do you expect to make with your setup? Just curious...thanks!

Originally Posted by EVO8URV8

I have no plans for an E85 tune yet but will a single pump with 1000's (or 1200's) will cut it for the Red on 100 octane? Whats the exact injectors size that I need to use to be able to still stay on single pump (for now) on 100 octane? or do I really need to go with double pumper? (I know it's a must for E85 but not sure for 100 octane)

Originally Posted by Evo H8

1000's should be fine on 100 octane with a single pump. But in the long run you'll be paying more for 100 octane than you would have just getting two pumps and running cheaper E-85..

If you plan on going E-85 in the future, get 1200's.

Originally Posted by griffeyr

na 26 or 27 on dd with red should be good....however, it would really come to life at 30....its all in the tune, as mine wasnt that great

Originally Posted by Smoothgangsta

Does anyone have a side-by-side picture of the IX turbo and RED? Or IX -> Green -> RED...that would be neat to see all 3 size wise.

Originally Posted by Evolessfornow

From the FP site:

Q. Why do people say it's not good to get oil feed for the turbo off the cylinder head? Should I use a filter on my oil supply line to my turbo?
A. There are plenty of people who have oiled their turbo off the head and not had any problems, there are just as many if not more that have done it and had recurring turbo failure that was only vaguely described by the repair shop as "poor lubrication". Oil pressure in the cylinder head on a stock 4G63 engine can be less than 5psi at times, while this may be enough oil for a factory 14b, T25 or even 20g it isn't enough to feed the high volume oil passages of the modified thrust setup in your FPGreen or FPRed model turbo. The Garrett severe duty 360 thrust setups also have an increased appetite for lubrication. Think twice before feeding either of these type turbos from the head. Remember that you aren't just trying to keep some oil on the bearing, you are trying to float one piece of metal above another piece of metal on a pressurized film of oil, and at the same time keep the whole mess cool enough not to melt. A constant high volume stream of oil does just that, a measly trickle will send you back to the turbo shop. One exception to this is the Ballistic Concepts Ball Bearing CHRA from Garrett. These turbochargers are totally different internally. Their operation is actually impeded by too much oil. It is fine to supply these turbos with oil from the head. In fact the oil line we offer comes from the head and features a .8mm orifice to restrict the oil flow to the turbo . These turbos require water cooling in the absence of the typical high volume of oil that would normally provide stable temperatures. As far as filters go, you're damned if you do and you're damned if you don't. You shouldn't need one in your oil line. Failures occur due to dirt/grit in the oil making it into the turbocharger. Failures also occur due to plugged filters. We have seen it both ways. If you are going to use a filter, check it often. The most important thing you can do to avoid oil contamination of you turbo is to THUROUGHLY wash everything more than once before assembling your engine. Avoid sandblasting anything that goes inside or onto the engine. Specifically avoid sandblasting your valve cover. If you suspect that the machine shop that did your valve job sandblasted your head then make sure you remove the 4 plugs from each end of the head that cover the ends of the oil gallies and wash the gallies out with HOT SOAPY WATER. If you do this you will be amazed at what comes out of your beautifully machined freshly rebuilt head. If you think all that is a bunch of crap, at least spin the engine over to prime the oil system without the turbo attached so that anything in the gallies has a chance to flush out instead of flush into your new turbo.
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Originally Posted by SRT-TO-EVO

No.

Originally Posted by Guru

Stock ignition setup works fine for over 500 WHP. Save your money.

Originally Posted by sokaroza

1. yes on e-85 and only 33% meth

Originally Posted by Evo H8

Can I just say that I have an FP Red on E-85 @ 28psi and I think my car is near undriveable at WOT past 3k rpm! I made 440WHP on the CBRD Mustang Dyno and I just got my car back today.... I'm terrified of my car right now! I'll make my own thread and review on Monday........ but to all you guys wanting insane power... do you have any idea what 400WHP is like? I suppose I'll get used to it soon... but when you floor it, everyone and everything else better get of your way. You better have some premium tires too... I have some high performance snow tires and I spin quite a bit from 40 - 60mph in 2nd gear. I have the EPM 02 dump on my car and its so loud at WOT it blows my mind... love it! I gotta give props to CBRD for an amazing tune and service. This is all at only 28psi where the turbo is just waking up. I cant imagine ~32 - 35psi. This turbo has lots of room to grow.