Guys,
I see most of u recommend the 2.1 build with the galant block as being the cheaper way than the 2.3 or 2.4, but how cheap are we talking here? can someone throw out some numbers on how approximatly those builds cost (2.0,2.1, 2.3, 2.4)?
Thanks

 

this is kinda off topic but would everthing bolt right up to a 2.4 liter block??? such as power steering, alternator, water pump, timing tensioner etc...???

this is interesting...might keep that in mind for a 2.1 liter if my engine ever goes "kaboom" lol...didnt know those blocks were that cheap

 

The 2.1 would have excellent rod angularity/stroke to rod ratio, slower piston speeds at TDC, and a larger bore (which helps reduce valve shroud among other things).

I assume that the 2.1 build is not proven in the Evo world b/c I dont really see it that often, but Im pretty sure that Buschur Racing wouldnt build it if it were destined for failure.

 

how about a car with buschur 2.0l bottom end stock head with GSC S2's valve springs and retainers, intake and exhaust with cat, and either the BBK full turbo or the Stock IX turbo! i would love to see a simple not to expensive build that can go 10's and still spool like stock (blast to drive on the street) and still retain the charactistic that makes this car great... handling!

or if you decide to do the RED, what about uping the compression ratio a hair just to help with quicker spool. just a thought.

 

No h20, meth or alcohol injection. Something that's always in "kill mode" as Chris once said.

 

how about an evo engine with only OEM parts only!

not evo OEM but any car OEM!

 

james have you been drinking..?

 

I think a lot comes down to the build and parts used which is why I zeroed right in on David Buschur when I needed to build one.

If my memory serves me correctly Curt Brown experimented with a 2.1 L and then eventually switched to a Buschur 2.0 L when he achived his record 9.3 time

I do not recall what issues or problems if any he experienced or why he went back to the 2.0

Power wise I would think either one could make the same or similar power and rpms depending on how you set up the piston and rod legnth. I am not a engine builder / desinger which is why the input from Buschur Racing is critical.

From what I can gather the larger bore of the 2.1 can help open up the valves and theoretically should allow better flow and a higher VE

Al

 

I think you have to use the 2.4 L water pump and timing belt - at least that is what it looked like on the one we had here

Al

 

Its running E 85 - plenty of alchy injection

 

As Al said, on E85 it will be on kill mode. But even on pump gas he'll be running 30psi and will be on kill mode just like all the pump gas monsters they pumped out this year.

 

This is interesting. Please provide more feedback on the built 2.4 that you guys are doing. If it's a cheaper solution to a BR built motor, I'm definitely interested. I'd really like to know how it compares to the BR built 2.0.

 

Both TurboTrix and AMS used a 2.1 in their drag cars for multiple races, I think TTR is still using one. I'd say its fairly proven.

 

Everything from a 4G63 doesn't bolt right up to the 2.4 block. There's a bunch of threads on all that stuff scattered all over EVOm.

Yes, the 2.1's are proven. Let me clarify again, I am NOT building a 2.1 for this project. I am using our stroked 2.0. I have no seen any amazing results from a 2.1 engine.

Depending on the project I recommend two engines, the 2 liter or the stroked 2 liter that is what I am using in this project which is a 2.25 cu. in. actually. Everyone calls them 2.3's.

I am only offering the builds/parts because it is a cheap way to fix an EVO if you've destroyed your block. The engine build itself is the same it just gets you a block for under $500 where a new EVO block is about $1800.

 

i thought AMS still has the fastest evo with the 2.1? and also highest hp