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Buschur Racing doing a start to finish EVO8 build, need input.

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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 10:53 AM
  #211  
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From: 2003 Evo VIII - Silver
I am also pleased to see you go with the FP Red, I have been seeing a lot of really good results on customers cars with that turbo and it is a great all around turbo for someone who wants to have a really well balanced all around fast street car.

With the 2.3 L I think it will spool very close to a stock turbo and of course the power potential is amazing.

I am hoping to see this new machine run in the stock appearing turbo class at the shootout this year. With the power and TQ numbers you are shooting for and with those gears and with the right tires it should be yet another 9 second Buschur street machine.

Al
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 11:35 AM
  #212  
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From: pittsburgh pa
David what is up with the Manley's over the Crower's??
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 11:44 AM
  #213  
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Originally Posted by steelcityevo8
David what is up with the Manley's over the Crower's??
Turbo tuff for the win!
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 01:27 PM
  #214  
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We use the Manley Turbo Tuff's in some engines and Crowers/Grodens in others. It depends on the build. All of them we've found to be exceptional rods.

Manley wanted to get involved with this particular build and I may want to spin this engine a little higher than I typically spin a stroker so............
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 01:45 PM
  #215  
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Originally Posted by davidbuschur
We use the Manley Turbo Tuff's in some engines and Crowers/Grodens in others. It depends on the build. All of them we've found to be exceptional rods.

Manley wanted to get involved with this particular build and I may want to spin this engine a little higher than I typically spin a stroker so............
So are the Manley's a lighter rod then or do they offer a better length that allows a better ratio?
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 02:09 PM
  #216  
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From: FL
Originally Posted by davidbuschur
blueevoix, very nice find. I think I will do that. In the past to do this we knock the center out of a brand new cat and run a pipe through them, quite expensive. Thanks for that one!
Not a problem. I know I said it was stainless steel, but double check with them. It doesnt really mention in the details after I look at it again but its under the stainless products.

How would this new resonator you will be using be installed? Is it going on the long exhaust section (midpipe) or will it in place of the center Bullet muffler is? And if its not too early to as and have spec's on it, is there something about this resonator that differentiates it from others? Does it have special packing material, wider diameter and/or special physical design? If its too early to mention in the R&D stage I'll understand.

Thanks,
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 08:00 PM
  #217  
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I will look into the fake cat, probably try to remember to order one Monday. Much of the products advertised as stainless in fact are but many are 409 grade which will eventually rust out.

The Manley rod weight I cannot remember off the top of my head. The rod is a standard 2 liter rod, nothing special about the length.

As for the resonators, how they are installed will depend on the customer and what they order. It can go in the mid pipe, offroad pipe or in the rear where the muffler goes. I have a bullet muffler in the middle for my JDM EVO9 rear on my RS. I put a resonator in the rear where the muffler typically is, it cannot be seen from the rear. So we have some options on where to put it. This resonator is basically a very small diameter muffler with a smooth inner bore and straight through 3" design.

I've had a seriously bad taste in my mouth for resonator ever since we dyno tested a 1G FWD DSM we were having trouble with. It was about 9 years ago. The car GAINED 130 whp from removing a resonator that was on it, yes, 130 WHP, with NO other changes to the car. The inside of the resonator was a bunch of bumps with holes in them and a very small necked down ID.
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 09:55 PM
  #218  
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Originally Posted by BluEVOIX
Instead of gutting a high flow cat here is a stainless steel straight pipe with catalytic heatsheild for very cheap! Only 39.99 !

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/produ...a74974acb00f7e

If this one dosen't work out for you, you could just remove the heat shield from the cat and tack it onto your test pipe. Here's a few threads showing this:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...test-pipe.html

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-like-cat.html

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sa...rter-pics.html


Dan (drb)
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 01:31 AM
  #219  
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From: FL
Originally Posted by davidbuschur
I will look into the fake cat, probably try to remember to order one Monday. Much of the products advertised as stainless in fact are but many are 409 grade which will eventually rust out.

The Manley rod weight I cannot remember off the top of my head. The rod is a standard 2 liter rod, nothing special about the length.

As for the resonators, how they are installed will depend on the customer and what they order. It can go in the mid pipe, offroad pipe or in the rear where the muffler goes. I have a bullet muffler in the middle for my JDM EVO9 rear on my RS. I put a resonator in the rear where the muffler typically is, it cannot be seen from the rear. So we have some options on where to put it. This resonator is basically a very small diameter muffler with a smooth inner bore and straight through 3" design.

I've had a seriously bad taste in my mouth for resonator ever since we dyno tested a 1G FWD DSM we were having trouble with. It was about 9 years ago. The car GAINED 130 whp from removing a resonator that was on it, yes, 130 WHP, with NO other changes to the car. The inside of the resonator was a bunch of bumps with holes in them and a very small necked down ID.
Was it like this?




The above picture show the louvered style resonator. Those are usually the ones that hurt performance. But the perforated ones should be ok. I havent done any testing I'm just going by visual what would have negative impact on flow paths.

A comparison shot:
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 08:17 AM
  #220  
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David, please explain the choice of the 2.3L and 4.11 FD combo for this "street" build. It seems that the spool and torque advantage from the 2.3 would be lost by upping the FD.

I would appreciate input reguarding this, because I just can't seem to wrap my head around it.
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 08:21 AM
  #221  
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Originally Posted by equinsu-ocha
David, please explain the choice of the 2.3L and 4.11 FD combo for this "street" build. It seems that the spool and torque advantage from the 2.3 would be lost by upping the FD.

I would appreciate input reguarding this, because I just can't seem to wrap my head around it.
You add final drive because you cannot rev as high, using the stroker you get the added tq/spool advantage but you need a gearing advantage to keep up with cars that can rev to 9k because you are limited with respect to redline.

The gearing effectively makes your 8-8500rpm redline closer to what the 2l builds can handle speed wise.

Scorke
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 09:59 AM
  #222  
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From: 2003 Evo VIII - Silver
Originally Posted by drb
If this one dosen't work out for you, you could just remove the heat shield from the cat and tack it onto your test pipe. Here's a few threads showing this:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...test-pipe.html

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-like-cat.html

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sa...rter-pics.html


Dan (drb)
I am not sure the Green Peace fanatics would be very happy to see this Not to mention Barak Obama and Nany Pelosi.
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 10:00 AM
  #223  
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From: 2003 Evo VIII - Silver
Originally Posted by equinsu-ocha
David, please explain the choice of the 2.3L and 4.11 FD combo for this "street" build. It seems that the spool and torque advantage from the 2.3 would be lost by upping the FD.

I would appreciate input reguarding this, because I just can't seem to wrap my head around it.
I would assume that he wants to go high 9's in the 1.4 mile and dont want to shift to 5th
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 10:02 AM
  #224  
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From: 2003 Evo VIII - Silver
Originally Posted by davidbuschur
We use the Manley Turbo Tuff's in some engines and Crowers/Grodens in others. It depends on the build. All of them we've found to be exceptional rods.

Manley wanted to get involved with this particular build and I may want to spin this engine a little higher than I typically spin a stroker so............
I like the name Manley - it makes me feel very macho

Also since Brian Crower has taken to rebranding a bunch of Chinese made garbage the Crower brand has lost some respect in my mind

BUY USA!
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 10:35 AM
  #225  
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From: Knoxville Tennessee
Originally Posted by DynoFlash
I like the name Manley - it makes me feel very macho

Also since Brian Crower has taken to rebranding a bunch of Chinese made garbage the Crower brand has lost some respect in my mind

BUY USA!

thats right, a manly rod will never break! lol....it reminds me of all those Chuck norris jokes
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