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4G64 Long Rod 2.2L Build

Old Feb 20, 2009 | 01:47 PM
  #16  
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From: STL
Originally Posted by GregGSC
Early shots, we will make a full post on it in a few days... pricing is going to be in the low to mid $3k and Our crank is actually a Fully Billet crankshaft not a forged unit..







is this what nills runs?
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 02:07 PM
  #17  
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different rods, different crank. but as far as the geometry yes it is the same.
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 06:55 PM
  #18  
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^Looks good.
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 04:04 PM
  #19  
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Well, my custom Wiseco pistons will be here on Tuesday. I ended up going with an SCE ICS Titan head gasket and ARP L19 head studs. Lets hope that will be enough to hold up to an HTA35. I will order the Evo oil squirters and check valve bolts on monday (P/N's MN143460 and MD372046), and hopefully the block will go to the machine shop by the end of the week. I should have the short block together in a few weeks. I plan on using a new oil pump and water pump to play it safe, and I am considering getting a new cam tensioner too. I'll add pictures when I get everything together.
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 04:07 PM
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I forgot to add, I ended up going with 9.5:1 C/R pistons and a 1.1mm thick head gasket. Anyone know a ballpark on cam degrees that would make the cams straight up? Thanks.
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 04:27 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by dsevo
I forgot to add, I ended up going with 9.5:1 C/R pistons and a 1.1mm thick head gasket. Anyone know a ballpark on cam degrees that would make the cams straight up? Thanks.
You mean as far as degreeing them in? You always end up off with the 4G64 (1/2 tooth as I recall or 3.5*) with the 4G63 head. I suggest getting a degree wheel kit and then install the cams on a degreed centerline. One will end up off however.

p.s.-my personal 2.2LR is at the machine shop, I am working the head right now prior to some extra treatment. Then I call Greg for some more cam talk

aaron
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 04:42 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by JohnBradley
You mean as far as degreeing them in? You always end up off with the 4G64 (1/2 tooth as I recall or 3.5*) with the 4G63 head. I suggest getting a degree wheel kit and then install the cams on a degreed centerline. One will end up off however.

p.s.-my personal 2.2LR is at the machine shop, I am working the head right now prior to some extra treatment. Then I call Greg for some more cam talk

aaron
Sounds good. I plan on buying adjustable cam gears, so I can put them at whatever degree is best. I read somewhere else that -3.5* for both cams puts them pretty close to centerline on 4G64/4G63 head motors. Maybe I will buy a degree wheel kit.
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 07:10 PM
  #23  
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From: dade county
hey i'm doing a similar build but i'm doing a 2.1 destroker, are you planning on eliminating the balance shaft?
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 08:43 PM
  #24  
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I am, I think anyone doing a build they intend to rev does.
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 10:14 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by quick silver 8
hey i'm doing a similar build but i'm doing a 2.1 destroker, are you planning on eliminating the balance shaft?
Yep, AMS kit unless I just decide to save money and machine down my own. I deleted them in my Ecotec powered sand car and it was the best mod I did, aside friom the turbo of course I honestly don't notice any difference in vibration, and the motor is solid mounted in the car.
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 09:09 AM
  #26  
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Well I'm a little discouraged now because I talked to my tuner yesterday, and he told me that he's personally had 4 4G64 motors blow head gaskets in the last 2 years, all of which under 30 psi and built by a well known engine builder on evom. This just confuses me because I've read about other people who have never had an issue. One of my favorite things about my evo is its reliability, so I really don't want to do all of this work and have a motor that eats head gaskets every 6 months. When I call around, no one seems to have a definitive answer as to exactly what combination they've seen work reliably. I guess I need to do more homework.
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 09:51 AM
  #27  
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I'm not a fan of the 4G64 idea due to the tight bore spacing. If I were tasked to deal with a 4G64 block, the first thing I would do is install O-rings (probably have to use a 'figure 8') or Pyramid rings.

Also, a 162mm rod would work with the 4G64 block and an 88mm crank, using a piston with the same pin height as a 4G63 2.3. With a 94mm crank, I'm afraid you are going to run into an issue with the pistons. You would be for the wiser to consider a 156mm rod.
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 09:58 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Ted B
I'm not a fan of the 4G64 idea due to the tight bore spacing. If I were tasked to deal with a 4G64 block, the first thing I would do is install O-rings (probably have to use a 'figure 8') or Pyramid rings.

Also, a 162mm rod would work with the 4G64 block and an 88mm crank, using a piston with the same pin height as a 4G63 2.3. With a 94mm crank, I'm afraid you are going to run into an issue with the pistons. You would be for the wiser to consider a 156mm rod.
The pistons are already built. Wiseco told me they look fine on paper and should work great. I guess we'll see.

Btw, I plan on using your same turbo setup because of your results.

Last edited by dsevo; Mar 16, 2009 at 10:31 AM.
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 11:11 AM
  #29  
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I'm on a stock bore 4G64 with HKS head gasket. 41-42 pounds of boost on race fuel and have not had any issues with cylinder sealing. Been running for over 2 years now daily driven. I think the reason speak about sealing issues with 4G64 is because when you look at what gaskets are available for a 86.5mm bore there is no good choices.

But if you stay with a stock bore the HKS 86mm gasket is actually big enough to work fine. But for a 87mm bore I dunno what you would use.

I think Simon Norris does a lot of "high deck" (4G64) motors builds these days and if he is using them for 1000 hp plus I wouldn't worry about it. But I think he does keep them stock bore because he is the one who told me the hks gasket fits.
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 11:13 AM
  #30  
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You might want to consider finding a block in good enough condition that you can keep stock bore?
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