is 28-29 psi on a fp red with supporting mods and built longblock safe on 93 pump gas
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From: NW Arkansas -- Land O' Twisties
I'd say the max "safe" horsepower would be just above 400 whp, but a dynojet would throw out numbers closer to 450. Beyond that, you're starting to endanger (or at least minimize the lifespan of) the stock block.
My 2 cents, anyway.
My 2 cents, anyway.
my mods are: hks catback, megan downpipe, o2 housing,test pipe, 1000cc pte,hks bov , upper and lower ic pipes, turbo xs intercooler, hallman pro mbc, koyo radiator, hks cold air intake,fp red 80mm. I really wanted about 500hp, would 93 pump ok, or e85 guys.
Junior tuned me to 28psi and I only allow myself to hit max 26psi. Like I said I'll save the big boost for race fuel or meth. I mean if you think about it I'm faster then 97% of the cars on the road they I see everyday.....why push it. I don't have the funds for a engine build. Beside I think pushing the Red in the 30psi range on pump is very scary to think of. Most of the time like now I ride at about 22-24psi just for DD fast enough.
I do dual maps with different boost leaks and completely different fuel maps and timing maps because i found alot of my customers asking for a wicked pump tune then not running the boost i set them at. Most of the time its okay, but without logging every single boost you dont know what youre really getting.
Cheers!
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From: South Beach, FL / Miami, FL / Pt. St. Lucie, FL / NYC
Evolved Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: South Beach, FL / Miami, FL / Pt. St. Lucie, FL / NYC
Can't do that man.. If youre tuned for a certain psi you need to stick with it unless he changed your tune for something less potent for daily driving. Im sure he spent the time to get things perfect at 28 while at 26 you may be hitting cells that are actually more aggressive. Make sure he knows whats up so you dont put youself in a bad situation.
I do dual maps with different boost leaks and completely different fuel maps and timing maps because i found alot of my customers asking for a wicked pump tune then not running the boost i set them at. Most of the time its okay, but without logging every single boost you dont know what youre really getting.
Cheers!
I do dual maps with different boost leaks and completely different fuel maps and timing maps because i found alot of my customers asking for a wicked pump tune then not running the boost i set them at. Most of the time its okay, but without logging every single boost you dont know what youre really getting.
Cheers!
The Electronic Fuel Ignition class that I took stressed thermal management, especially when it comes to forced induction engines.
It's the raised cylinder temps that are more the issue. There is a loose formula for offsetting every PSI you raise the induction pressure, unfortunately it escapes me at the moment and I don't have my class materials with me. When you consider some of the relatively cheap ways to guard against pre-detonation and knock, it seems a bit short sighted not to insure that you have off set the higher cylinder temps.
How many "charge cooling" mods have you done?
E-85 would be a big one, but you'll likely need double pumper, 1200cc+ injectors if you go through with it. (Edit, just saw your mods list)
I'm going to through this out for discussion, what about the Mishimoto Racing thermostat? Cooler block temps won't hurt. They are a cinch to pop in, only don't use any gasket goop. Just use the dry one that comes with it. I noticed 10 to 15 deg colder coolant temps when the engine is under load, at least according to the EvoScan logs.
(Edit, saw mods list etc...)
At 5800 ft, I figure that I'm around 475 HP / 460 trq (fluctuating with outside temps) FP Red running at about 29-30 with 272i/264e HKS (32 psi when I'm feeling gutsy), E85 with 1200cc's, double pumper, Nisei IC, and racing thermostat. Knock is very rare in my case, but so is the air up here, you might have concerns with SC's denser air.
These are all just thoughts. You might have already considered all this. A reputable local tuner's advice would probably be the best way to go about deciding just what you will need.
Hope it all goes well
It's the raised cylinder temps that are more the issue. There is a loose formula for offsetting every PSI you raise the induction pressure, unfortunately it escapes me at the moment and I don't have my class materials with me. When you consider some of the relatively cheap ways to guard against pre-detonation and knock, it seems a bit short sighted not to insure that you have off set the higher cylinder temps.
How many "charge cooling" mods have you done?
E-85 would be a big one, but you'll likely need double pumper, 1200cc+ injectors if you go through with it. (Edit, just saw your mods list)
I'm going to through this out for discussion, what about the Mishimoto Racing thermostat? Cooler block temps won't hurt. They are a cinch to pop in, only don't use any gasket goop. Just use the dry one that comes with it. I noticed 10 to 15 deg colder coolant temps when the engine is under load, at least according to the EvoScan logs.
(Edit, saw mods list etc...)
At 5800 ft, I figure that I'm around 475 HP / 460 trq (fluctuating with outside temps) FP Red running at about 29-30 with 272i/264e HKS (32 psi when I'm feeling gutsy), E85 with 1200cc's, double pumper, Nisei IC, and racing thermostat. Knock is very rare in my case, but so is the air up here, you might have concerns with SC's denser air.
These are all just thoughts. You might have already considered all this. A reputable local tuner's advice would probably be the best way to go about deciding just what you will need.
Hope it all goes well
Last edited by nirvevo; Sep 14, 2009 at 02:56 PM.
FYI
Given similar mods, the same turbo, as well as the same fuel, then the same tuner should be able to safely tune for 1-2 more PSI on an Evo IX vs. an VIII.
Last edited by sparky; Sep 14, 2009 at 10:09 PM.
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......just my personal preference.





