Updates?

 

update it is!!



i'm not 100% sure what happened, either the rod snapped at the bottom or the gudgeon pin pulled out of the piston, but either way there are 2 holes in my block.
There is no detonation evidence on either the head or the piston.

So the rebuild has been brought forward!

Awaiting on my clutch to get back from autoclutch (upgraded exedy twin plate), then i can get the full rotating assembly balanced.
The porting on the head has been started, just waiting on some new valves for that (1mm oversize).
Once those are done, the pistons and head will go off for HPC coating.
The we'll put the engine together.

I need to work out my fuel supply problems. 1x walbro 255 just isn't going to cut it, so i have to determine the best way to get the fuel i need. Whether it's inline bosch 044, surge tank with 044 or double pumper intank.
I can't take the fuel pump out of the tank without removing the fuel tank out of the car. The mirage has solid lines on the top of the unit

I'm going to be running a new intercooler, probably looking at the Hybrid HDI GT2 intercooler at this stage. It should meet my power goals and they are reasonably priced.

I'll have to get a new oil cooler too. It's not worth running the old cooler with the possibility of putting engine pieces through the new engine.

Thats about it for now!
Engine should be done in about 2-3 months!

Cheers, Mike

 

Beautiful car man, poor engine. Now it has an extra large oil filler.

 

cheers mate.

2.3 with Mivec and FP Red is going to be insane
hoping for full boost, 30psi @ 3500rpm or earlier!

 

Sorry to hear bout the block, i agree with swapping out the oil cooler. not sure how the colt is but in my lancer gsr i took out the stock fuel pump from the hatch underneath the back seat, it is hard lines but i cut them and replaces it with fuel hoses, no leaks or anything, this was done on 2 gsr's and a Evo 5 with no problems. it beats taking down the diff and fuel tank.

 

update.

I got all my rotating assembly back from the engine balancers.
The crank has been checked, polished, balanced and nitrided.
Pistons were all between 0.5grams of each other, 2 of the rods needed material removed off the big end up balance up.
(pic is one normal, one balanced)



Next 3 pics are of the rebuilt Exedy twin plate clutch.
Clamping load increased from stock ~2200 lbs to 4200lbs.







manley rods and CP pistons



Balance shaft drive wheels has been trimmed down with the balance shaft removal, just to remove unwanted rotating mass but maintain correct spacings.



Nolethane custom pour for my rear trailing arms to help stop Tramming





Removal of the fuel tank to try and fit another fuel pump in parallel... No way in hell that will fit with the fuel gauge level sender. I'm going to do an engine bay surge tank with Bosch 044 external pump.



Rear subframe before bracing welded in. Both rear diff mounting bars are getting nolethane poured too (4 bushes total).





More to come as i get it done!
Engine going to Carl Ruiterman (www.ehmotors.co.nz) to get assembled


Any questions, please ask!

 

Very nice build and cool custom clutch. Mitsubishi actually made a crank shaft spacer for the balance shaft elimination. PN: MD128107 is the spacer used on the non-balance shaft cars since they use the same dimensions as the balance shaft cars. It is actually slightly smaller than the one you had cut down. It's about $5USD though. Again, this is an awesome build and I look forward to future updates.

Josh

 

Thanks Josh

I can't wait to get this thing going again! I thought there was a spacer available from mitsi, but i had no idea on the part number. The wheel i cut down was going in the bin anyways, so this will work

Subframe will get welded this week, i should have all the suspension parts back from nolethane shop. More pics to come!

 

subframe welded up







I've undersealed the rear while the subframe and fuel tank are out.
It'll all go back in next week once i get the mustache bar and diff bar back from nolethaning.

Next i'm going to sort out some rear diff bracing to stop it twisting and smashing the alloy cover off the back of the diff. This is a common problem with the evo 1-3 and the same model GSRs (1.8).

Cheers, Mike

 

pics from the engine build, not yet finished.

spun rear balance shaft bearing holder



so we decided to grub screw the oil feed for that bearing







Good balance shaft surface



mivec oil feed -4 outlet



clearances on the mains and rods

 

some old dyno numbers that i got direct screen shots of the dynapack computer.







These are 12second runs, with the external wastegate on the internal ports. Full boost with the internal wastegate actuator on should be about 4200-4300 (from 4700).
Engine rebuild is coming along nicely, Carl is doing the porting and combustion chamber work at the moment. Once thats done it'll be going to HPC for coatings on the pistons, combustion chambers, intake and exhaust ports.
Then assembly, fitment and we'll run it in on the dyno!

 

My mivec oil feed filter housing assembly fixed.
It was damaged in the post from USA, and the thread snapped off.
Thanks for Dan and Muttly for fixing it up
Now i can sort out the feed line and fittings for it.

Transfer case bolts drilled/tapped from M8 to M10 today, i have to get my hands on some M10x1.25x35 Cap screws, then i'll put up some pics

Cheers, Mike

 

here are some pics of the head after coating.
full head surface including CC's, valves and ports coated.







Pistons have also been done, but no pics for them.
With any luck, i'll have most of the engine assembled this week.
More pics and progress to come.

Cheers, Mike

 

micropolished crank


attempting to put the engine together this weekend was a nightmare.
The valve guides are going to have to be pressed out again, as there is blasting media from the head coating jammed down the side of them. I can move it around with a needle, but i can't actually get it out. Dammit.

I measured up the ring gaps... WOW.
top ring is 0.0175" which is ok, but the 2nd ring is about 0.025"... this is straight out of the packet. ridiculous. So i'm going to have to buy another set, i want to set the 2nd ring to about 0.019".

Something interesting, i bolted on my old head and headgasket to check to see if the machine shop had actually torque plate honed the block. Without the head on, it was measuring the same all the way down the bore. With the head on, and torqued to 105ft/lb (with H11/L19 head studs), the bore was surprisingly straight. 80% of the bore stayed the same dimensions, but right at the top of the bore (closest to the head) it mushroomed out slightly. From ~0.004" to 0.005". I was expecting a lot more distortion.
This was done without the mains cradle being attached, so i'm wondering if that will affect it also.

Cheers, Mike

 

Mike I would run .020 top and and .025 second. that will work well. larger gaps give better ring seal. not smaller. ring seal comes from pressure that gets behind the ring and pushes out. small gaps can hinder this affect.

I have run 24 top and 28 second with perfect results.