Project: Evo6 Powered Mirage
The rear subframe is the same as the evo 1-3, but it didn't have sway bars.
It's using a 1996 GSR rear diff housing (1.8litre turbo) with evo 3 mechanical plate LSD diff. This gets the ratio's right.
Hope that helps!
heya, My Chassis is a CL2A, it came as 1.5litre automatic 4wd as standard.
The rear subframe is the same as the evo 1-3, but it didn't have sway bars.
It's using a 1996 GSR rear diff housing (1.8litre turbo) with evo 3 mechanical plate LSD diff. This gets the ratio's right.
Hope that helps!
The rear subframe is the same as the evo 1-3, but it didn't have sway bars.
It's using a 1996 GSR rear diff housing (1.8litre turbo) with evo 3 mechanical plate LSD diff. This gets the ratio's right.
Hope that helps!
Good News, I got a new PB on sundays racing and took out my class win!
11.10 @ 124mph, 1.71 60ft with full interior and street tyres (205/55/15 Bridgestone S-02's).
time slips and youtube video up later this week
my 11.12 sec run @ 124mph.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zoFkBeMaoMM
I didn't record my 11.10sec run, but this is close enough
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zoFkBeMaoMM
I didn't record my 11.10sec run, but this is close enough
I went to a local track day for a blast on saturday, i had lots of fun!
I broke lots of things on my car though
Here are the logs from my oil surge

I definitely need to change the sump or fit an accusump.
Oil temps got up to 127deg C (260deg F) and water temps to 103deg C.
I wasn't pushing the car 100%, there is still a lot left in it. I just wanted to play it safe for my first outing.
Cheers, Mike
I broke lots of things on my car though

Here are the logs from my oil surge

I definitely need to change the sump or fit an accusump.
Oil temps got up to 127deg C (260deg F) and water temps to 103deg C.
I wasn't pushing the car 100%, there is still a lot left in it. I just wanted to play it safe for my first outing.
Cheers, Mike
a small update.
I'm not happy with the noises the engine is making ( https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...lap-video.html ) so i am pulling the head off and probably the bottom end.
I have done about 4000miles, so it gives me a good chance to check the motor and make sure it is in good condition.
I have ordered a 2quart accusump and the 5041 kit from GSC. This will give me higher valve seat pressures (from 68lb to 100lb) which will allow me to run flat throttle shifting. Currently i'm running the GSC Beehives with stock retainers and seats. New hydralic lifters are on the way too.
I have done approx 22 drag runs with the new setup, so i am very excited to pull the clutch down and check the condition of it. I will post pics up once it's out.
The transfer case is clunking at full lock right turn also. i have been told this is because the torson diff bolts unwind themselves. This will be an easy fix.
I will be installing the Mitsubishi Legnum 4.111 final drive as well. I have chosen to stay with the longer 1st and 2nd gears. I do not forsee any problems getting off the line with a 2600lb car.
Cheers, Mike
I'm not happy with the noises the engine is making ( https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...lap-video.html ) so i am pulling the head off and probably the bottom end.
I have done about 4000miles, so it gives me a good chance to check the motor and make sure it is in good condition.
I have ordered a 2quart accusump and the 5041 kit from GSC. This will give me higher valve seat pressures (from 68lb to 100lb) which will allow me to run flat throttle shifting. Currently i'm running the GSC Beehives with stock retainers and seats. New hydralic lifters are on the way too.
I have done approx 22 drag runs with the new setup, so i am very excited to pull the clutch down and check the condition of it. I will post pics up once it's out.
The transfer case is clunking at full lock right turn also. i have been told this is because the torson diff bolts unwind themselves. This will be an easy fix.
I will be installing the Mitsubishi Legnum 4.111 final drive as well. I have chosen to stay with the longer 1st and 2nd gears. I do not forsee any problems getting off the line with a 2600lb car.
Cheers, Mike
update.
engine/gearbox and transfer are out.
head is off the engine. Looks like the headgasket has sealed very well. small oil leaks here and there, but just seeping.
Clutch has warped the top pressure plate as usual. i'm going to get a 10mm plate laser cut to help stop warping (stock is 8mm in centre, 5mm on edges).
I pulled #3 and #4 rod bearing caps to check them. Good condition. Pics to come.
The head was not so good. A lot of the cam journals have galling on them. I'm assuming it's from the media blasting when i got my head coating. /Sad Face. I'll just clean them up and it should be ok.
Slight grazing on the thrust side of the piston on the bore. "normal".
The sump i'm running on the car is not even close to the sump i thought was on it.
It's much deeper and a much better design. I'll put pics up here and in my oil pressure thread too.
I had a good look at the oil dipstick height. Even with the oil level on "full" the conrods are in the oil. If i ran a quart over "full" then it's moving a lot of oil with the crank. I think i'm going to rebaffle the stock sump.
When i drained the gearbox, the oil came out with a lot of metal particles in it. Just the grey slimy oil. Lots of small parts on the magnet, but nothing that looks too serious. 4.111 legnum final drive here i come.
The Transfer will need an overhaul too, it's clunking on tight right hand turns (torson bolts coming loose)
Pics to come.
Cheers, Mike
engine/gearbox and transfer are out.
head is off the engine. Looks like the headgasket has sealed very well. small oil leaks here and there, but just seeping.
Clutch has warped the top pressure plate as usual. i'm going to get a 10mm plate laser cut to help stop warping (stock is 8mm in centre, 5mm on edges).
I pulled #3 and #4 rod bearing caps to check them. Good condition. Pics to come.
The head was not so good. A lot of the cam journals have galling on them. I'm assuming it's from the media blasting when i got my head coating. /Sad Face. I'll just clean them up and it should be ok.
Slight grazing on the thrust side of the piston on the bore. "normal".
The sump i'm running on the car is not even close to the sump i thought was on it.
It's much deeper and a much better design. I'll put pics up here and in my oil pressure thread too.
I had a good look at the oil dipstick height. Even with the oil level on "full" the conrods are in the oil. If i ran a quart over "full" then it's moving a lot of oil with the crank. I think i'm going to rebaffle the stock sump.
When i drained the gearbox, the oil came out with a lot of metal particles in it. Just the grey slimy oil. Lots of small parts on the magnet, but nothing that looks too serious. 4.111 legnum final drive here i come.
The Transfer will need an overhaul too, it's clunking on tight right hand turns (torson bolts coming loose)
Pics to come.
Cheers, Mike
updates!
Here are a few random pics-
coatings coming off the piston around the "squish" areas

coatings coming off on the squish areas in the combustion chamber. Similar for the other cylinders

Contact patch on the side of the piston, installed @ 3.5thou. These could have been installed tighter for my application.


clutch had been slipping because of poor adjustment. The pedal was adjusted too far in, always slightly pulling on the clutch



Bearing wear on #1 and #5. Reason unknown. Can anyone here shed some light on this?
Here are a few random pics-
coatings coming off the piston around the "squish" areas

coatings coming off on the squish areas in the combustion chamber. Similar for the other cylinders

Contact patch on the side of the piston, installed @ 3.5thou. These could have been installed tighter for my application.


clutch had been slipping because of poor adjustment. The pedal was adjusted too far in, always slightly pulling on the clutch



Bearing wear on #1 and #5. Reason unknown. Can anyone here shed some light on this?






Good luck at the nats.. low 11s!