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Can the balance shafts be removed with motor in car

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Old Jan 22, 2010, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by ilikeppie
A lot of people just stub the shaft in the oil pump for earlier gen 4g63's can we safely do that with the evo or do we have to have like the ams shaft?
that is a matter of great debate.

What's wrong with stubbing/turning down the front shaft, and just leaving the belt off the back? if its not spinning, its not dragging down power from the engine, at that point its just a little bit of extra weight floating around.
Old Jan 22, 2010, 08:55 AM
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Well granted i have a lift and pallet jack, but i dropped my engine out last night with a total time of draing fluids,removal of tcase, axels and all....3hrs it helps to have the right tools and a shop at tropical heat!!

GL with b/s removal man.
Old Jan 22, 2010, 10:18 AM
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Damn if i had access to that kind of shop i would consider just pullin the motor. so has anyone just stubbed the shaft with the evo motor?
Old Jan 22, 2010, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by ilikeppie
A lot of people just stub the shaft in the oil pump for earlier gen 4g63's can we safely do that with the evo or do we have to have like the ams shaft?
There is no difference. I personally prefer the stub shaft because of the gains in oil pressure. The AMS *race* balance shaft elim. does make you oil pump any less likely to fail. The balance shaft is on the driven side of the pump which is not directly connected to the drive gear of the pump. The drive gear of the pump is the one that fails. What kills the pump is having the timing belt too tight.

I purchased the AMS one and stil had the oil pump fail, when i contacted AMS they said it could have been any of several factors, I was pissed at 1st but they are correct it could have happened from my install or from the T belt being tight, but to claim its less likely to happen with their kit is a crock of BS The stub shaft is a factory mitsubishi part and used in other engines that have the same front cover/ oil pump assembly we use.


Oh and you would be crazy to do it in car. Its a PITA even with a cam bearing installer
Old Jan 22, 2010, 06:11 PM
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how would you get your t belt too tight i thought it had automatically adjustable tensioners
Old Jan 23, 2010, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by ilikeppie
how would you get your t belt too tight i thought it had automatically adjustable tensioners
I made the exact same argument. There is a hydraulic tensioner, how can tension vary if the hydraulic tensioner is still within its adjustment range.

I argued that their could be no difference but I was wrong. I think that the difference lies when setting the eccentric pulley. Depending on where the eccentric pulley ends up when you tighten it can affect the tension. Where the pulley gets sets affects where the fulcrum point is, meaning that if the plunger has to be all the way out to tighten the belt it would infact have more leverage on the belt. so the same force at the end of the longer fulcrum arm equals more force applied to the belt
Old Jan 23, 2010, 09:35 AM
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so how do you make sure you do not over tighten
Old Jan 23, 2010, 04:06 PM
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There is a very specific procedure listed in the service manual. I can't remember exactly off the top of my head but there is a special tool that goes into the two holes in that eccentric pulley and with the tensioner on and the pin still in you tq the physical pulley to 30 inch lbs then tighten the bolt that holds it in place. Then you can remove the pin from the tensioner.
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