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So, which turbo-kit would you choose?

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Old Jul 16, 2004 | 09:25 PM
  #76  
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From: Arlington Heights, IL
Have you seen a low carbon steel when it has been exposed to high heat? The carbon starts to come out of the matrix and it becomes very brittle and start flaking apart. Why didn't formula teams back in the turbo days use low carbon (mild steel) steel, but instead S.S. Stainless Steel has a higher coefficient of thermal expansion, meaing it will grow more with heat, but it does not mean it will crack easier.
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Old Jul 17, 2004 | 10:16 AM
  #77  
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If you saw our manifold in person you would realize it will never crack. We use the proper material and build process to provide us with a manifold we can offer a lifetime warranty on. I don't know of anyone else providing this warranty even on cast manifolds.



Our GT30R on 94 octane will make 400whp without a problem. The car we did had a stand. manifold and was on 91 octane. If I remember right he still had the stock IC.
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Old Jul 17, 2004 | 10:32 AM
  #78  
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...but at what rpm does it really make power? I think we are finding that the Evo crowd is less apt to compromise than past groups of enthusiasts. I guess I should say there is a large group that are holding out for their "cake so they can eat it too".
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Old Jul 17, 2004 | 10:52 AM
  #79  
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Actually the GT30R spools very similar to the stock turbo while making a lot more power and torque at the same boost levels. The GT30R we use it great because it uses the correct housings for a 2.0l and you can't go worng with the GT series wheels.
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Old Jul 18, 2004 | 11:33 AM
  #80  
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which GT30R are you using, there are a handfull of different variations?
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Old Jul 20, 2004 | 09:26 AM
  #81  
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For street use we would suggest using our BR440 kit. We have made 443 whp on race gas with this kit and made 401 whp on 94 octane. This is tuning with the AEM EMS. The car when run on pump gas had a bone stock head and bottom end.

This turbo spools just slightly slower than stock and is a blast to drive. While the BR500 and BR580 kits make more power the pump gas numbers aren't where it is at. We have tested these two turbos on race gas only and have made 505 whp and 543 whp.

The manifold for the kits we cast out of ni-resist high nickel material. There won't be any breakage to worry about with this manifold.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
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Old Jul 20, 2004 | 10:15 AM
  #82  
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The kit I'm going with is coming straight from Turbo Trix. I come to bring the pain
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Old Jul 28, 2004 | 09:39 AM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by Hooptie157
The kit I'm going with is coming straight from Turbo Trix. I come to bring the pain
I swung by the shop yesterday and talked to mark about this kit. He showed me the turbo and what came with it. The package looked beautiful and was quoted a resonable price. Can't wait till they finish some of the installs and get some numbers down. Mark if your reading this I got dibs on your rims.
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Old Jul 28, 2004 | 09:45 AM
  #84  
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BUSCHUR baby!! 440 or 500 most unreal kit youll ever get for $2300!!! but you need the staged upgrade paths first, do it the right way, i learned, know my car is rediculous runnig 21psi and smokeing anything, were going to the track tongiht on 27 psi c-16 and seing what she can do!
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Old Jul 28, 2004 | 09:51 AM
  #85  
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Im not afraid to get the turbo and lay down the power Im just afraid that the tranny/transfer case might not be able to keep up. Anybody offering a bullet proof set up yet?
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Old Jul 28, 2004 | 07:02 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by RnR Racing


We offer a 3 year warranty on all manifolds. We stand behind our work 100% without any problems. We have never had one come back and we have never had to warranty a manifold.


now you say *lifetime* which is it?
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Old Jul 28, 2004 | 07:21 PM
  #87  
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I got to thinking the other day about simple physics and why my engine blew roadracing, and then I got to thinking about manifolds and simple physics also. I posted this in another thread.

"And one more thing I want to add, I would definetly suggest running a cast manifold (pick your manufacturer - I'm picking Buschur). If you drive the car normally and take it to the dragstrip occasionally, you'll "probably" be fine with a tubular header. But, if you run your car at 10/10ths for a half hour plus on a road course you will get your header glowing red, and it will crack after enough time. If you do 10 track events a year, and four sessions per event, that means your heat cycling (expanding and contracting) your manifold 40 times a year. You tell me, how long until it cracks? Granted a thick walled manifold will last longer than a thin (and materials play a large part also), but I don't have enough money ($1500 more on average) , nor am I serious enough, to do regular upkeep on a tubular header to avoid cracking - nor do I have enough money to have a spare manifold if it cracks. If you don't get your car to 10/10ths for long periods of time and you have the extra money - buy the RnR, AMS, SFP or Full-Race manifold - don't buy a HKS or Greddy."

And to say your manifolds never crack, well, that seems impossible.
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Old Jul 28, 2004 | 09:14 PM
  #88  
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It really depends on your budget I guess. A good design and engineered equal length tubular manifold will help eliminate lag and save some weight in the front. It must have a reason for all those japanese tuners to use them, I have yet to see one shop car have a cast manifold. I used to have a kooks equal length ss manifold (looks like the AMS one) with Garrett GT30 BB turbo on my civic with 1.8L motor, I had the revhard cast manifold and t3/t4 turbo on it before. The difference is night and day! The ball bearing turbo with the tubular manifold spool up so much faster, there are no lag with that setup, It's like a RC car when running autox. My stock evo lag more than the gt30 with that mainifold in my civic, I'm not even kidding.

I don't understand why people have the small GT serious (not the 35 nor the 40) on thier evo don't have instant spool up yet according to their dyno sheet, maybe its still new or their car don't have good supporting mods...? I'm a bb turbo and tubular mainifold believer because I have first hand experience with the set up and love it. However, the mainfold I had did crack two years after because the material they use are too thin. I just reweld it.

Anyway all manifold might crack or break over time, a tubular manifold cost around 800 or so, a good design one might last 3-5 years? Its still cheaper than a set of hoosiers I just got which will last about 4 track days. But I agree, cast manifold are more affortable and will last longer.
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Old Jul 30, 2004 | 02:45 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by evo8power
BUSCHUR baby!! 440 or 500 most unreal kit youll ever get for $2300!!! but you need the staged upgrade paths first, do it the right way, i learned, know my car is rediculous runnig 21psi and smokeing anything, were going to the track tongiht on 27 psi c-16 and seing what she can do!
How did you do at the track?
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Old Jul 31, 2004 | 10:48 AM
  #90  
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Kevo,

Our shop EVO runs a cast manifold. Our Conquest Street Class car also runs a mildly ported stock 2G exhaust manifold on it. The Conquest ran 8.61 at 158 mph on Wednesday night in Outlaw Street. This is a class full of V8 cars, we qualified 3rd in a field of 8, 11 cars tried for the field.

John Shepherd is another example of a guy running a cast manifold, 8.76 at 168 mph in an AWD DSM.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
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