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Well i know people run an AN fitting on where that line goes. So what i am asking is what people do once they run a catch can set up and run the PCV valve to a can. I am looking for if people weld a fitting on or run a longer line to a catch can.
Well i know people run an AN fitting on where that line goes. So what i am asking is what people do once they run a catch can set up and run the PCV valve to a can. I am looking for if people weld a fitting on or run a longer line to a catch can.
if you want to remove blow-by gas while idling/cruising then you'd want this connected (as shown as 'STOCK' in the drawing above). if your goal is to NOT introduce 'dirty crankcase fumes/air' into the manifold then you'd want to cap this port.
I believe air going in the side vent->crankcase->rear vent is factored into the idle tuning so you might need to revisit that if you make that change
To improve the breathing on my new engine, i put two 1/2" brass fittings directly into the balance shaft tunnel.
I will plumb all 4 breather ports (2x head and 2x block) into a catch can.
The 2x block ports will goto the bottom of the catch can, allowing any oil in the can to be drained back into the engine.
The car will run on 98RON pump gas, so it wont have that white junk in it.
Mike what was the outcome of this mod? I’m getting massive blow by from my -8 valve cover breathers on track days. 1.5 ltr in 4x 60 second Laps. It fills the catch can and blows out the breather. Then I get pressure drop and the ECU safety cuts in. This is on a new engine, the previous engine did not do this. I have these fittings already tapped into the block from the previous owner but the are capped. The balance shaft hole also has a baffle Material pushed down it, I believe this is to stop oil splash when these are used as breathers. Should I be using these as breathers and put in a second catch can or should I plumb one to the top of the existing catch can to vent and the other to the bottom of the catch can to drain the oil back in.
Are there any tricks to determine if I'm having PCV issues or crankcase pressure issues? I'm going through a ton of oil (1qt every 500 miles) and I'm wondering if this has something to do with it. No symptoms of oil consumption such as smoke or smell, no oil in coolant or coolant in oil, etc. 50k miles on a 2.4LR build. I'm thinking of getting a catch can and PCV delete to find out if I'm losing a ton of oil through the crankcase ventilation, but may be smarter to find out if that's worth it first, and I'm not sure how to go about doing that.
Do a compression and leak down test. 50k on a built motor, especially a 100mm motor... You're probably nearing or at the time for a refresh. If you were pushing a quart of oil out the crankcase breathers, the intercooler would be half full of oil by now, and would still be an indication of excess blow by, necessitating a refresh.
Are there any tricks to determine if I'm having PCV issues or crankcase pressure issues? I'm going through a ton of oil (1qt every 500 miles) and I'm wondering if this has something to do with it. No symptoms of oil consumption such as smoke or smell, no oil in coolant or coolant in oil, etc. 50k miles on a 2.4LR build. I'm thinking of getting a catch can and PCV delete to find out if I'm losing a ton of oil through the crankcase ventilation, but may be smarter to find out if that's worth it first, and I'm not sure how to go about doing that.
I bought a new oil fill cap and drilled/tapped it for a nipple fitting which I connected to my profec b which displays to the 1/10th of a psi. Under boost I was pulling 0.7 psi of vacuum in the crankcase and it read 0 during all other conditions. That still doesn't stop my BB FP Red from burning oil even with restrictors and an OPR on the feedline (just ranting, lol)
Do a compression and leak down test. 50k on a built motor, especially a 100mm motor... You're probably nearing or at the time for a refresh. If you were pushing a quart of oil out the crankcase breathers, the intercooler would be half full of oil by now, and would still be an indication of excess blow by, necessitating a refresh.
Where can I find the intercooler dipstick? (<- Joke) Gotcha, I'll check all the PCV piping while I'm at it, along with checking the intake and IC piping. If I can pick your brain a little bit - doing a "refresh" has been on my mind for a while. What do you think that would entail? New piston rings? New rod/crank bearings? I'm not sure what work would all have to go along with that. Would the cylinders need to re-bored, and what would that do to piston/wall clearances?
Originally Posted by XSivPSI
I bought a new oil fill cap and drilled/tapped it for a nipple fitting which I connected to my profec b which displays to the 1/10th of a psi. Under boost I was pulling 0.7 psi of vacuum in the crankcase and it read 0 during all other conditions. That still doesn't stop my BB FP Red from burning oil even with restrictors and an OPR on the feedline (just ranting, lol)
Just for the sake of discussion, what kind of symptoms are you getting that leads you to know it's your turbo?
Just for the sake of discussion, what kind of symptoms are you getting that leads you to know it's your turbo?
I never had blue smoke or smelled burning oil. Then I put on the bbfpred and it started smoking. So I put the stock turbo back on to send the fp back to be checked. No more smoke or burning oil on the oem turbo. Of course fp said the turbo was perfect 👌... put it back on and it still smokes. It got slightly better after adding their purple restrictor 0.020 as opposed to the black 0.030" one it came with. As it sits now I have the turbo smart OPR feeding the 0.030" then the 0.020" then it goes to the turbo, to minimize the oil it sees but it still burns oil and smokes. But the performance otherwise is great so I've just decided to deal with it while being very salty.
Where can I find the intercooler dipstick? (<- Joke) Gotcha, I'll check all the PCV piping while I'm at it, along with checking the intake and IC piping. If I can pick your brain a little bit - doing a "refresh" has been on my mind for a while. What do you think that would entail? New piston rings? New rod/crank bearings? I'm not sure what work would all have to go along with that. Would the cylinders need to re-bored, and what would that do to piston/wall clearances?
What a refresh entails depends on how things look and measure out once the engine is apart. At minimum its usually rings and bearings, possibly lightly polish the crank. With 100mm stoke, it may need pistons. But that depends on how the bores measure out and how the pistons look.
Knocked out a compression test and got 150/145/140/155. 9.0:1 pistons. Seems a little on the low side, but not sure if a 2.4L would have slightly lower cylinder pressure than a 2.0L.
I definitely would like to tear down the engine and at least replace the rings in the future, but the engine doesn't seem in dire need of it. Frankly when I did the rebuild I don't think I did the best at gaping/installing the rings (that was definitely the most difficult part). Wish I was smarter and did a baseline compression test when the engine was freshly built.
We do it for anywhere from $150-200 depending on the car & how much labor the client spends with us. We get valve covers that have paint chipping off. We just got one that was spray painted red, and as i removed it after about 12 cans of brake cleaner it turned a beautiful blue. Turns out it was powdercoated blue and it was 100% perfect under the ugly red chipping paint. I was more then shocked. ( I wish I had before pics, but I don't.) Maybe the owner will. I'll get in contact with him later today to find out and upload post if he does.
This specific cover I charged $250 for because it took 3-4 hrs extra just to strip paint and get it how i wanted it. I'm super picky, so i made sure i got every last bit of the left over red paint, then spent another hr going from water to compressed air to finish it off.
We are not removing baffles, because there's no need to at this point. We have removed baffles for people who want it done though. We just pop the rivets out, and put in removable self taps so you can remove baffles at a later date if you'd like.
If you show proof our mod killed your engine I WILL cover the entire damage. I am 1001% confident nothing is left in the cover after we are done with it.
Heres pictures of the blue cover i was talking about & heres a pic of a cover we did for a customer were doing a lot of stuff on his car at the shop we did it for only $150 for him because we have his car in our possession right now.
To date we have done about 30 cover mods. With the right bit, tap, tools in general its not a bad job. If you get covers that have spray paint it turns into a nitemare.
I have a hard time charging a lot for this, so when I get spray painted covers, I really end up working for like 10/hr which sucks, but its better then making the customer upset.
I tried to call Tom several times but no luck.
How do you make this work on the Evo9 valve-cover, the factory hole seems so close to the top edge that I can't see how it's safe to use the original hole as a pilot hole for the larger hole when you are drilling. It's almost like it needs to be centered lower so that you don't run out of room on the top!
