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Old Mar 31, 2011 | 09:56 PM
  #16  
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scary pic. Looks like you need a new turbine housing.
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Old Apr 1, 2011 | 09:51 AM
  #17  
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It drives soooo much better now. I actually have trottle response. We had to weld a bead on the actuator arm inside of the turbo after the bushing because it was lose and by the picture you can see, not seating correctly.
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Old Apr 1, 2011 | 10:44 AM
  #18  
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^^^ what were the symptoms u had b4 u took the turbo out ??

was it the same symptoms as the ones i have listed ??
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Old Apr 1, 2011 | 12:29 PM
  #19  
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?????
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Old Apr 1, 2011 | 12:52 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by dinok
?????
I know your frustrated, but just because he had that problem doesnt neccessarily mean you have the same problem. Go out to your car and inspect/do a boost leak test and let us know what you find so we can help you.
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Old Apr 1, 2011 | 01:07 PM
  #21  
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i see ... im just thinking if i had a boost leak wud i be still hitting full boost ?

bc the vac meter is the same as it always was

the only issue is the late spoolup

tomorrow im gettin it checked out
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Old Apr 1, 2011 | 01:15 PM
  #22  
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You still would be hitting full boost if the leak was small. I know the fuel pressure regulator hose tends to pop off maybe you can do a visual check first.

what turbo/hotside are you running and what mileage is on it?
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Old Apr 2, 2011 | 09:08 AM
  #23  
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I was hitting full boost (21psi) @ 4800rpms in 5th. I checked boost leaks, my hallman mbc, my bov, I adjusted my actuator arm, and finally pulled the o2 housing n saw my problem. N WALLLAAHHHHB! SPOOLS @ 3800
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Old Apr 4, 2011 | 12:11 PM
  #24  
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so did u replace the wastegate ?? bc i have a brand new bov and hallman controller

im pretty sure my wga is ****ed wasnted to see how u fixed that problem
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 12:55 AM
  #25  
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I welded on a small bead to keep the arm from backing out again.

Does that make sense? I guess I couldve taken a pic of it.
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 08:36 AM
  #26  
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i was just curious if replacing the wga wud be the same thing
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