If I can't get this straightened out soon I hate to say it but im walking away from mitsubishi for life. So with that said here's the dilema. Few months ago had a boost problem. Car would spool like christmas coming around and only hit 14 psi at redline. Then it got to where it would only hit ten at redline and each shift it had to rebuild boost. The problem was a cracked manifold. Fixed it car ran great for a month and now the problem is back but it is hitting full boost but at redline and each shift drops to ten and builds back up slowly. Car feels slow as ***** no power and is on the stock 8 turbo with a 9 hotside so I know it should spool like crazy and hit full boost way before redline and spool even faster after shifting. What else should I check other than boost leak test checking the turbo and the obvious of checking for cracks in the manifold like there was last time but I doubt its cracked since its the stocker. Every mitsu I've owned once it gets a problem the problems keep on coming while all my friends beat the total **** out of their **** and it runs forever with no problems. Its getting very annoying that this car wont stay running right.

Forgot to add the car has recently seemed like it doesn't want to idle correctly like it was before. Only thing I've messed with that could have caused this was clean the maf which I thought would make it run better haha ya right.

 

What is the complete modlist on your Evo anyhow? This might help. How are you controlling boost? What DV, or BOV are you running? What intake system? Have you done a boost leak test yet?

 

I performed one the last time it was doing this with no leaks, however when I had the turbo off I adjusted the wg in fforaround 22psi. Mods are basically 3" tbe vta o2 dump evo 8 turbo with 10.5 hs hks intake, hks bov I know its ****ty but wasn't leaking last time around which surprised me, hks 272s, ic, piping, hks evc, forge wg, and that's all that might affect this.

If u meant have I done a leak test since this last time, no I haven't just tonight is the first time I got on it in a while and seen that its boosting funny which I figured it would since the idle got weird and it just felt like the turbo wasn't spooling like it should. I will be doing one tomorrow if I get the time after work to make one. I used my friends last time and he is out of town at the moment

 

Is your HKS BOV setup to VTA? Have you checked turbo for excessive shaft play?

 

Yes the bov is vented to atmosphere but has cause no problems in idling before in the last year I've had it like that. im using an apexi safc2 to control that with a setting similiar to a hks eids. I will be checking that tonight after work and doing another leak test if I have time.

 

Took off the intake while I was on break and checked the turbo no signs of damage or contact with the housing, spins freely, and no shaft play at all. Goes to show mitsu can build a turbo to last 90k miles but only cuz most that time the vehicle isn't boosting properly to begin with.

 

Finally had time to do another leak test, and well nothing. No leaks at 23 psi up to 35 which is as far as I went well beyond the 22 im running. The only leak was from the shaft seal on the front of the tb and it was slight and went away with a slight touch of the throttle rotor. Last time this happened I checked all the vacuum lines, I guess ill do that again tomorrow after work, but I doubt its them since three weeks ago I zip tued everyone of them and looked them over in preperation for a mellon tune.

 

chris at mellon tuning will help you out when you get the tune started.

 

someone from mellon is planning a trip down to middle tn to tune a couple of peoples cars and I would rather not be like oh hey before we tune can ya fix my car lol I would look like a douche if I did that I would like it to be in tip top shape so they can tune away hassle free.

 

Is the boost controller still turned off?

 

Yup. How do I check to see if its the solenoid. Do I disconnect the wg and tee intothe nipple on the wg to run just wg pressure right?

 

Problem fixed. Somehow the wg acuator arm got loose. Today I went to check the wg itself and was going to unhook it and see if the spool increased and psi increased before doing so I wiggled the arm for some reason and it was loose which surprised me since it took me and a friend to get it back on the flapper when I tightend it down after replacing the cracked manifold 4 months ago. Turned it 4 turns and all is good.

Mods please /thread