ticking/knocking sound at idle
Granted, I took the head off too, but that same ziptie and strap method works fine just for removing the cams with the belt on. Been done plenty of times and never seen it jump. But I'd still manually turn it over two to three times to make sure everything lines up after I take the tensioner release bolt out.
next time i get a chance i will take the valvecover off and get a measurment for u. like i said i looked very close at it and couldnt c any wear on the side of the cam journal but i didnt take the cap off to look inside. i will check the cam cap for wear aswell. i will keep the thread updated and send u a pm when i update.
thanks for the input Greg.
chris
thanks for the input Greg.
chris
I'm not sure how i missed this when you posted the pic's on Monday but i apologize.
The closest i have ever measured an OEM cam to the number 5 cap is .015" with the cam pushed all the way in (making the most room at the number 5 cap for the last lobe). If you have a min of .015" there you won't have any problems what so ever as with heat the cam will grow in length. This is due to the thrust of the cam being set by the first cam cap/journal and the heat growth of the cam.
After looking at your pic's id almost think that you are inside that .015" number and you might be having a bit of contact when cold startup occurs between that lobe and the cam cap and until the heat grows the cam you get a slight ticking sound from the two metals rubbing. There are a couple of different ways to correct this. First thing first how about you measure with a feeler gauge and let's get a number. If you do find that it is tighter than .015" i'd suggest you remove that number 5 cap and check to see if you have wear or witness marks on the cap from the side of the lobe. If you do than you can do one of 2 things to correct it. 1 would be to take a file to the topside cam cap and clearance the little lip where it is rubbing (this is the quick fix). the second would be for me to send you a replacement cam which has been machined slightly different to set the number 5 lobe further back in the head. It's something i always leave up to the customer or shop when this question arises. Either will correct the ticking issue if that is where it is coming from.
The closest i have ever measured an OEM cam to the number 5 cap is .015" with the cam pushed all the way in (making the most room at the number 5 cap for the last lobe). If you have a min of .015" there you won't have any problems what so ever as with heat the cam will grow in length. This is due to the thrust of the cam being set by the first cam cap/journal and the heat growth of the cam.
After looking at your pic's id almost think that you are inside that .015" number and you might be having a bit of contact when cold startup occurs between that lobe and the cam cap and until the heat grows the cam you get a slight ticking sound from the two metals rubbing. There are a couple of different ways to correct this. First thing first how about you measure with a feeler gauge and let's get a number. If you do find that it is tighter than .015" i'd suggest you remove that number 5 cap and check to see if you have wear or witness marks on the cap from the side of the lobe. If you do than you can do one of 2 things to correct it. 1 would be to take a file to the topside cam cap and clearance the little lip where it is rubbing (this is the quick fix). the second would be for me to send you a replacement cam which has been machined slightly different to set the number 5 lobe further back in the head. It's something i always leave up to the customer or shop when this question arises. Either will correct the ticking issue if that is where it is coming from.
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: yamato japan
Hey everyone, I just finished my gsc lifter install and I am Sooo freaking happy. They were really loud on start up because I bled them and ran it at 3000rpms for about 5 min and then took it to the gas station to get gas and while I was driving there it got really quite. When I got to the gas station about a mile away, I lifted the hood to the sound of a purring engine. No ticking except fir the injectors and standard valve train noise. They work great and have better engine response. It feels like the excel is faster. I think you can put that up to be the old lifters. My engine in my Evo 6 has 60k and now runs like a dream. Also if you do buy the special tool it makes things much easier.
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 26
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From: yamato japan
It sounds like you have two ticking noises. I hear the high pitch lifter tick but the other sounds low pitched like it's coming from the bottom end. Try making a video with the hood open next to the engine.
the sound is louder at start up but since its colder out it doesnt change much after warmed up. i think the other tickin is my injectors. also the louder ticking seems to b coming from the cam gear side of the engine.
i ordered the itm lifters and will b installing them around xmas when i have some time off. i will take pics of the cam cap for GSC and i hope to find a dead lifter somewhere. im gonna do it by removing the cams one at a time since the tool was marking my lifters.
i would like to have bought the gsc no ticks but i couldnt find any priced as well as the itms and the double pricetag isnt an easy sell for the wife:/
i would like to have bought the gsc no ticks but i couldnt find any priced as well as the itms and the double pricetag isnt an easy sell for the wife:/
Evolved Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 6,902
Likes: 151
From: Grand Island, NE
i think u guys r hearing the sounds of my built block and head. my engine is noisy but the only sound that has changed in the 20k since i built it is the high pitch tick. i had it logged 900 miles ago when the sound was fainter and my tunner assured me that everything was where it should b.
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 26
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From: yamato japan
Well there is an easy way to tell. Get a big long screw driver and put the metal end on each of the exhaust manifold runners before the turbo where the manifold bolts to the head and put your ear against the plastic end and listen to the engine like it's a stethoscope. If it sounds smooth when it's at idle slowly increase the rpms and listen for a low pitched nocking noise.