Looking for advice on replacing clutch
Looking for advice on replacing clutch
I am going to replace the clutch in my car in the next month or so. I am looking forward to it and at the same time dreading it. I am planning on doing a few mods at the same time. Since I am not a mechanic I am trying to prepare as much as possible. As of now I am thinking about going with an act or a competition clutch. I am also wondering about bleeding the ACD or if it is possible to due the job with out disturbing it. I have read a couple of howto's, but would like what ever advice anyone has to give.
THanks
THanks
While you're at it, drain the trans and tc fluids. Check for large shrapnel that drains out or that's stuck to the magnetic oil drain plug. It's normal if you see dusty metal on the drain plug. When you're done and the trans and tc is back on, fill it back up. I use Amsoil 75W-90 but Diaqueen or Redline does well too.
One of my biggest problem is separating the TOB from the collar. I just don't bother trying to pop it off anymore and just unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel via clutch fork hole. There's a total of 6 bolts. All you need is a 3/8" drive socket (10mm or 12mm, I forgot the size), extension, and swivel extension (3/8" because 1/4" is too weak and 1/2" is too big). Unbolt the first bolt, rotate crank with 1/2" breaker bar on other side of motor, unbolt another bolt, etc until all bolts are off.
Use this method if you too have problems popping that TOB from the collar.
One of my biggest problem is separating the TOB from the collar. I just don't bother trying to pop it off anymore and just unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel via clutch fork hole. There's a total of 6 bolts. All you need is a 3/8" drive socket (10mm or 12mm, I forgot the size), extension, and swivel extension (3/8" because 1/4" is too weak and 1/2" is too big). Unbolt the first bolt, rotate crank with 1/2" breaker bar on other side of motor, unbolt another bolt, etc until all bolts are off.
Use this method if you too have problems popping that TOB from the collar.
While you're at it, drain the trans and tc fluids. Check for large shrapnel that drains out or that's stuck to the magnetic oil drain plug. It's normal if you see dusty metal on the drain plug. When you're done and the trans and tc is back on, fill it back up. I use Amsoil 75W-90 but Diaqueen or Redline does well too.
One of my biggest problem is separating the TOB from the collar. I just don't bother trying to pop it off anymore and just unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel via clutch fork hole. There's a total of 6 bolts. All you need is a 3/8" drive socket (10mm or 12mm, I forgot the size), extension, and swivel extension (3/8" because 1/4" is too weak and 1/2" is too big). Unbolt the first bolt, rotate crank with 1/2" breaker bar on other side of motor, unbolt another bolt, etc until all bolts are off.
Use this method if you too have problems popping that TOB from the collar.
One of my biggest problem is separating the TOB from the collar. I just don't bother trying to pop it off anymore and just unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel via clutch fork hole. There's a total of 6 bolts. All you need is a 3/8" drive socket (10mm or 12mm, I forgot the size), extension, and swivel extension (3/8" because 1/4" is too weak and 1/2" is too big). Unbolt the first bolt, rotate crank with 1/2" breaker bar on other side of motor, unbolt another bolt, etc until all bolts are off.
Use this method if you too have problems popping that TOB from the collar.

I am going to replace the clutch in my car in the next month or so. I am looking forward to it and at the same time dreading it. I am planning on doing a few mods at the same time. Since I am not a mechanic I am trying to prepare as much as possible. As of now I am thinking about going with an act or a competition clutch. I am also wondering about bleeding the ACD or if it is possible to due the job with out disturbing it. I have read a couple of howto's, but would like what ever advice anyone has to give.
THanks
THanks
If you have an MR.... The write ups are a bit different. I did my trans a few years ago and this is no small undertaking. It is not an easy task. I struggled. I did it on jackstands and I have done a ton of motor work prior.
I would make sure if you can use a lift.. Also make sure you have the tools to do the job. lmk if you have any questions .. Good luck
It's hard but not that hard. I've done about 5 in the last 7 months. Figure a solid weekend your first time. Follow the write-up on www.evomoto.com, it is very helpful.
Few pointers:
I find it easiest to remove the trans with an engine hoist. There is a threaded hole on top of both the 5 and 6 speed cases, and it is placed almost perfectly in respect to weight balance. If you use it, make sure you use grade 8 hardware.
Also, you're going to have to drain at least some of the ACD fluid, due to the banjo bolt interfering with one of the 6 t-case bolts that have to be removed.
Also, it's easiest to remove the trans after removing the suspension subframe, but by no means necessary. If you follow the evomoto how-to, one step that makes things easier is completely removing the rear engine mount and bracket. It likes to get caught up on the power steering lines while dropping the trans.
Anyway man, it's very do-able. If you have any specific questions, feel free to PM me, I'm happy to help.
P.S. I strongly suggest you try popping out the TOB the correct way first, before ever removing the clutch while the trans is still on the car. Saves a lot of time.
Few pointers:
I find it easiest to remove the trans with an engine hoist. There is a threaded hole on top of both the 5 and 6 speed cases, and it is placed almost perfectly in respect to weight balance. If you use it, make sure you use grade 8 hardware.
Also, you're going to have to drain at least some of the ACD fluid, due to the banjo bolt interfering with one of the 6 t-case bolts that have to be removed.
Also, it's easiest to remove the trans after removing the suspension subframe, but by no means necessary. If you follow the evomoto how-to, one step that makes things easier is completely removing the rear engine mount and bracket. It likes to get caught up on the power steering lines while dropping the trans.
Anyway man, it's very do-able. If you have any specific questions, feel free to PM me, I'm happy to help.
P.S. I strongly suggest you try popping out the TOB the correct way first, before ever removing the clutch while the trans is still on the car. Saves a lot of time.
I need some advice on clutches. I am thinking of going with an OEM kit from Exedy. Cost is an issue, but the main reason, is that I can't seem to find any reliable info on clutches. From what I have read, the installer, is what makes a clutch good or bad. I don't understand high rpm lockout. I don't understand how a clutch can destroy a tranny, if it is installed right. Every clutch I have researched, has at least one or two if not more people saying it sucks, and the shop selling it saying its a great clutch, and that installer error is the culprit. Any advice will be appreciated.
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I need some advice on clutches. I am thinking of going with an OEM kit from Exedy. Cost is an issue, but the main reason, is that I can't seem to find any reliable info on clutches. From what I have read, the installer, is what makes a clutch good or bad. I don't understand high rpm lockout. I don't understand how a clutch can destroy a tranny, if it is installed right. Every clutch I have researched, has at least one or two if not more people saying it sucks, and the shop selling it saying its a great clutch, and that installer error is the culprit. Any advice will be appreciated.
(7,500 RPM +). You will get better advice if you let people know your HP/TQ level and if you clarify how you use your EVO, i.e. - daily driving, drag racing, autocross, etc.
I have started my clutch swap. I am now about to start putting stuff back together. A few of the highlights: For one, the bolts all seemed to be way tighter than what torque specs suggest. The TOB was no problem at all, I stuck the screw driver in between the TOB and wedge collar, had my friend push the clutch fork away from the motor, I twisted the screwdriver when the TOB was tight to the Pressure plate, worked perfectly. Getting the tranny out was a different story total pain in the butt. I supporting the the motor by way of a jack with a piece of 2x4 under the oil pan. My plan is to pull the motor forward and let it down (as much as I can with out braking stuff) to get the tranny back up. This is what I did to get it out with out moving the sub frame.
Transmission is in. Only knocked the wedge collar off once. Used a 12x1.25 x60 with an eye welded off center (so shift counter weights could clear) on top to pick with an engine hoist.
Finished. Everything seems fine. I meant to say 12mmx1.25x60mm bolt in the above post. Thanks to everyone who gave me advice, and of course the people who's write ups made it possible.
I have to vote for the Competition HD clutch. I bought mine from MAP. Send Adam a PM @ maperformance and tell him that Levar sent you to him about buying the clutch. English is running this same clutch in an EVO making 475wtq and I have a few friends running them as well with no issues. Mine is yet uninstalled as I am in Afghanistan in the freezing cold weather.
Yeah you should use a lift if you can. I did mine this past week. Started on Thursday and finished on Saturday. It took along time. Just be sure to double check everything. You will have to take the ACD line off the transfer case in order to get a bolt out of the T-case and you will lose fluids. I went with all redline products for my tranny and tcase. It was my first clutch job on an evo....wasnt pretty but I took my time and 17 hours later I was done!!
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