UPDATE:
I swapped in two different exhaust CASs and intake CASs (thanks Curt Brown) and it did not resolve the issue. I can rev the car to 6k under low load with no issue, but as soon as I see more than 15psi it breaks up badly. This was again confirmed with the stock ECU and Haltech. I did a pressure test and the IC piping is good. I also pulled the valve cover and did not see any issues with rocker arms or retainers.

Any suggestions are welcome.

 

I think I may have found the problem. If I move around the COP connector for coils 2&3 the car stalls as if the coils are not connected. This is not good because I have little patience for wiring issues.

Video of problem

 

Hah wiring issues make me want to torch my car

Good luck

 

When I swapped to the OEM ignition I could not get it to repeat while moving the wires around so I think that issue is with my wiring at the connector. I will have to redo that by ordering new connectors.

I believe I have found the issue, which is the trigger wheel smacking the pickup. I can clearly see the damage on the trigger wheel, but need to remove the crank sensor to see if it is damaged. I am not sure why the wheel would hit the sensor, but I am going to have to take some measurements next time.




I also have a leak from that large cast iron piece that attaches to the motor mount. I think it originates from the bolt in the picture and I was likely supposed to put some type of sealer on those threads. Easy fix and I don't see any oil originating from the head gasket area.

 

check your crank end-play.
that's what normally causes the trigger plate to destroy crank triggers.

 

Indeed, but I think I know why it hit. My new motor no longer runs the balance shafts so I don't have to run the large cog wheel between the crank and trigger plate and instead used a small lightweight spacer. If you look at the picture below you can see the markings from the stock cog wheel, which is essentially the diameter of the trigger wheel. You can also see the markings from the small lightweight spacer I used instead. The spacer does not provide proper support to the trigger wheel and probably allowed deflection at high rpm. It is also important to note that only one of the two leading edges on the trigger wheel was impacted. I am going to put back the stock cog wheel as a spacer.

 

I replaced the trigger wheel and crank pickup and got the car running, but it did not resolve the issue.

 

Damn bro thats gotta be frustrating... Any plans on doing a ***** out on race gas to see what the 3576 is capable of?

 

My issue is still unresolved, but I think I may have found something to investigate. I got a nice high end timing light for Xmas and decided to see if using it would shed light onto my issue. I hooked up the timing light to the coil 2&3 signal wire(bl/gr) and got it dialed in. Realizing that I can't align the crank marks from this coil I decided to switch to the coil 1&4 signal wire. The results are the timing light can't get a signal from this wire. It is odd because no signal means no fire, but the coils are clearing firing. I can actually get a decent signal from all of the wires except the bl/yl signal wire on coil 1&4. Since those are the cylinders giving me grief I suspect this is related to my issue.

Any thoughts or suggestions for investigating further are welcome. If someone can tell me what readings (continuity to ground, 12v, etc.) I should have at each connector with car on and car off that would be great.

 

I gapped the plugs down to 0.018", but it made no difference regarding WOT breakup. I performed a continuity check from the ECU connector to the connectors themselves. I also made sure there were no shorts to grounds & power for the following:
Inj #1
Inj #2
Inj #3
Inj #4
Coil 1&4
Coil 2&3
Everything checked out so I don't suspect this to be a wiring issue. I still cannot get the coil 1&4 signal wire to provide an rpm signal to my timing light.

I do notice the injectors don't all click the same and two of them are physically and audibly clicking harder. Therefore, I am sending them to FIC to have them cleaned and flow tested.

 

While the injectors are being sent to be cleaned & flow tested I decided to make some changes. No topmount is complete without an MPFAB CAS shield, but I did have to slightly modify to fit my setup. I also added some additional shielding to force the heat out the hood vent.


I am also shipping the compressor housing for the GTX3576r and GTX3582r to my buddy to machine for Garrett's turbo speed sensor. I will add some pics once these are complete.

 

More about the heat shield to force the vent to work. I've wanted to do something like that for a while too.

 

I called FIC and they flow tested the injectors and everything looks good so that eliminates a potential cause. It is sad that I was actually hoping to buy new injectors.

Once I recieve the injectors and compressor housing w/ speed sensor I have a few things I will try. I should have my new data logging gear so I can monitor EGT on each cylinder to see if it is a cylinder specific issue. I am also going to hook a voltage meter to the COP power and see what the voltage is doing under load. I still can't understand why the COP 1&4 signal wire won't register with my timing light, so I will likely hot wire directly from the ECU and bypass the stock harness.

I will briefly mention something very odd with my COP connectors. If I unplug the COP and turn the car on, all three pins (+, Signal, ECU Ground) have continuity to battery ground. I then plug an LED into (+,ECU Ground) and it lights up. I go back to continuity check and I have continuity on (+) to battery ground. After a few minutes continuity with ground from the (+) no longer exists. It acts as if there is some jacked relay in the setup, but I don't see the IX has a relay and only uses a fuse.

 

I may have blown my head gasket with the new setup. Taking the advice of another member with similar issues I decided to pull the head since the compressor housings are being machined by my buddy for the Garrett turbo speed sensor.

Upon pulling the head I noticed that cylinder #1 (passenger side) piston was very clean and the other piston tops had carbon buildup. This would seem to indicate that coolant was leaking into the cylinder. The only clean pass I made AFRs went from 11:5:1 to 12:1:1 so I expect to make more power with this setup with only minor loss in spool. I should have the setup put back together by Tuesday.

 

Did you bother with a leakdown before pulling your head?