Short Runner T4 TS GTX3076R Experiment
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,810
Likes: 329
From: Charlotte, NC
How do you weld the v band without warping the flange. My last v band attempt failed miserably
Stainless will move around a lot so I clamp them together in the "as used" state so the flanges are constrained before welding. I also went with the flanges that are male/female for better sealing.
Does the bottom of the mirage radiator line up?
Yes it all lines up, but you can see that new top brackets are required.
Stainless will move around a lot so I clamp them together in the "as used" state so the flanges are constrained before welding. I also went with the flanges that are male/female for better sealing.
Does the bottom of the mirage radiator line up?
Yes it all lines up, but you can see that new top brackets are required.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,810
Likes: 329
From: Charlotte, NC
I should have the 3.5" exhaust done tomorrow, which is the last fabrication to get the car running.



I also need a radiator cap as the Mirage is different size vs EVO.
I also need a radiator cap as the Mirage is different size vs EVO.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,810
Likes: 329
From: Charlotte, NC
Exhaust is complete and installed on the car. I should have the car running tomorrow and the only items remaining are radiator cap, wastegate hose, and 1/8" NPT plugs for the exhaust manifold. I ended up cutting the tip off my modified ebay exhaust for the new setup.

Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,810
Likes: 329
From: Charlotte, NC
I will let you know tomorrow when I start the car. I will likely have to add another muffler towards the front depending on how annoying it is. I got the new radiator cap today and hooked up the wastegate lines. Unfortunately, I couldn't find any steel 1/8" NPT plugs locally so they are on order and will arrive tomorrow morning. I can't wait to see how the new setup performs.
I will likely get the car running and make sure everything is good before hooking up the new data logging gear for mapping EGTs and pressure before/after the turbo. My turbo speed sensor should arrive some time this week so I will also have to send the compressor housings to my buddy to have them machined.
I hope to make a solid 525hp@wheels at 30psi on 93 octane on this new setup with the ultimate goal of 600hp@wheels with the R2's and GTX3582r. Time will tell, but you still have to have a goal

I will likely get the car running and make sure everything is good before hooking up the new data logging gear for mapping EGTs and pressure before/after the turbo. My turbo speed sensor should arrive some time this week so I will also have to send the compressor housings to my buddy to have them machined.
I hope to make a solid 525hp@wheels at 30psi on 93 octane on this new setup with the ultimate goal of 600hp@wheels with the R2's and GTX3582r. Time will tell, but you still have to have a goal
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,810
Likes: 329
From: Charlotte, NC
It doesn't sound too loud, at least no more so than the previous setup as far as I can remember.
Exhaust Sound
Exhaust Sound
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,810
Likes: 329
From: Charlotte, NC
Update:
I got the puller fan hooked up and working well with the Haltech unit. I appears to be holding temperature with only cutting on the pusher fan at low speed occasionally. The true test will be mid summer with AC blasting.


I have been dealing with an issue of an occasional miss in the ignition, which I think I have found the problem. I previously had the signal wire running right against the coil and I think this caused interference. I moved the wires away from the coil bodies and it seems to have resolved the issue, but I cant run the ignition cover.

Lastly, the wastegate is tight, but it fits and I can create more room if I have to run a thicker radiator.



Overall the car is running well and I have spent the last two days just taking the car through 4-5 heat cycles to burp the system and give the exhaust some time to relieve stress. Everything seems to be running well and no issues so far, but the car is running lean across the board so I will address driveability before tackling WOT. I also need to run all of this 93 octane so I can fill up with 100 octane and tune out the knock filters to determine real vs false knock with the Haltech.
I got the puller fan hooked up and working well with the Haltech unit. I appears to be holding temperature with only cutting on the pusher fan at low speed occasionally. The true test will be mid summer with AC blasting.
I have been dealing with an issue of an occasional miss in the ignition, which I think I have found the problem. I previously had the signal wire running right against the coil and I think this caused interference. I moved the wires away from the coil bodies and it seems to have resolved the issue, but I cant run the ignition cover.
Lastly, the wastegate is tight, but it fits and I can create more room if I have to run a thicker radiator.
Overall the car is running well and I have spent the last two days just taking the car through 4-5 heat cycles to burp the system and give the exhaust some time to relieve stress. Everything seems to be running well and no issues so far, but the car is running lean across the board so I will address driveability before tackling WOT. I also need to run all of this 93 octane so I can fill up with 100 octane and tune out the knock filters to determine real vs false knock with the Haltech.
Last edited by 240Z TwinTurbo; Apr 16, 2013 at 01:10 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,810
Likes: 329
From: Charlotte, NC
Update and Advice Needed:
I got the car running and it is fairly lean across the board so I focused on some minor drive ability tuning. As reported earlier the car has felt like it had a slight miss, which I thought was possible interference from the signal wire being located close to the coil body.
I started tuning WOT last night and was only able to make one clean pass and then pulled into a gas station to analyze the run and make changes to the VE table. When I went to drive home the car was misfiring and would barely move. It took out the #1 plug due to gas fouling and I also smell gas on the #4 plug. Long story short, I swapped stock coils, new plugs, stock ecu and the problem remains that I have a severe misfire, like a rev limit, when I try to go into boost.
I know it is not the Crank Sensor because when I disconnect the car won't start. With new plugs the car appears to drive fine, but definitely dumping fuel on #1 & #4 due to something. I took a log of the misfire and saw something interesting. If I go into boost the car misfires and when I let off throttle the car drops rpm and then adds rpm with TPS at 0% and injectors not firing.
If you look at the picture below you can see what I mean. So I let off the throttle and the injectors shut off, but the rpm dips and then rises again for a moment. You can see this twice in the log below
Blue Line - RPM
Purple Line - TPS
Green Line - Injector ms
My thought is the Exhaust CAS and I have one coming thanks to Curt, but other thoughts are welcome. The new setup definitely puts out heat and the CAS has no shielding.
I got the car running and it is fairly lean across the board so I focused on some minor drive ability tuning. As reported earlier the car has felt like it had a slight miss, which I thought was possible interference from the signal wire being located close to the coil body.
I started tuning WOT last night and was only able to make one clean pass and then pulled into a gas station to analyze the run and make changes to the VE table. When I went to drive home the car was misfiring and would barely move. It took out the #1 plug due to gas fouling and I also smell gas on the #4 plug. Long story short, I swapped stock coils, new plugs, stock ecu and the problem remains that I have a severe misfire, like a rev limit, when I try to go into boost.
I know it is not the Crank Sensor because when I disconnect the car won't start. With new plugs the car appears to drive fine, but definitely dumping fuel on #1 & #4 due to something. I took a log of the misfire and saw something interesting. If I go into boost the car misfires and when I let off throttle the car drops rpm and then adds rpm with TPS at 0% and injectors not firing.
If you look at the picture below you can see what I mean. So I let off the throttle and the injectors shut off, but the rpm dips and then rises again for a moment. You can see this twice in the log below
Blue Line - RPM
Purple Line - TPS
Green Line - Injector ms
My thought is the Exhaust CAS and I have one coming thanks to Curt, but other thoughts are welcome. The new setup definitely puts out heat and the CAS has no shielding.
If it was a sudden issue I would tend to favor the cam sensor as the villian, if it happened after a recent cam change then I would doublecheck the reluctor on the exhaust cam to make sure the little side is lined with the dowel.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,810
Likes: 329
From: Charlotte, NC
and the current S2s have been running for more than one year. I would say this is a sudden issue so I will swap the exhaust CAS and report back.
Seems like several people have reported odd issues similiar to yours that end up being a weak/dying cam sensor. I think Buschur was even able to attribute a weak sensor to killing a motor when on the AEM?
The stock computer seems to handle it better since what happens causes knock (misfire and most likely misinterpreted) and that pulls the timing when this happens. Its common enough that its the first thing I check when I get misfires. The next thing (not sure you'd see it in the Haltech) I have seen it do is cause IPW to drop out since the safety protocol in the stock computer. If the Haltech does something similar you may see that in the log.
Aaron








