UPDATE

The car is finally running and I was able to wire the fuel pumps this weekend.


I tested the new Squash Double Pumper with car off(12V) and running both 400's it was holding base pressure of 43psi. With the car running and a single 400(14V) I got the same results. Unfortunately, 1-2 of the AN fittings have slight leaks so I have ordered some Seco Seals to fix the issues. Once these are in I will put up a video at idle of Fuel Pressure Gauge with one pump running then two to show I am having no issues with fuel pressure.

Anyway, I drove the car around the block today twice to heat cycle the motor to get rid of air in the coolant system. I hope to start tuning next weekend once the fuel leak issue is fixed. Interesting, my Sonoco 93 octane is showing to have 8% ethanol.

I am going to keep the timing covers off for a week to make sure there are no leaks.

 

I'll bet that I am not the only other guy on here that is jealous. Clean engine bay!

 

For Godsakes Jim...tuck the throttle cable already!

 

Pic on how to?

Nevermind, search was my friend.

 

I have not been running the car much because I am waiting on the Seco Seals for the AN fittings, which should arrive tomorrow. In the interim I wanted to show the Squash unit in action running both of the "hotwired" Walbro 400 pumps with the stock supply line as the return. I want to also note the siphon has not been drilled.

In the video the car is idling and my 9yo son was grounding the relay to kick on the second pump. What you see is the typical 4psi jump in baseline fuel pressure, but not overrunning the regulator. I had to increase the base fuel pressure to ~50psi to get the car to idle because the base map was running very lean at idle with the new 10:1 bottom end. I will retune the Haltech this weekend with a 45psi base pressure and repeat the video.

http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/EVO/E85/hotwire1.AVI

 

Just for you Walker

 

Vid is not working for me Jim, but I assume you're saying you didn't encounter the overrun most experience with running two pumps at once. I'm using the factory feed as the return on my set up w/ a -8 feed, single hotwired Walbro E-85 pump, and I had overrun issues. My Aeromotive FPR was backed all the way out and I could get no lower than 65 psi at idle. I drilled the siphon and the problem went away. Interesting you're not having the same issues.

 

Working as designed

Andy

 

If I needed 2 pumps I've have one on my car for sure. The fact you guys did away with that godforsaken ring is proof enough that somebody over there was thinking when it was designed.

 

I did a quick comparison of the stock FPR vs the Aeromotive FPR. What I found is the stock FPR creates a huge restriction and will not allow for sufficient flow to run 2x hot wired Walbro 400's.

What you will see in the videos below is that I set the second Walbro 400 to kick on when the rpm exceeded 2K rpm using the Haltech. The only change in the videos is the FPR.

Stock Regulator with Squash Double pumper and undrilled shipon
http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/EVO...kregulator.AVI

Aeromotive Regulator with Squash Double pumper and undrilled shipon
http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/EVO...eregulator.AVI

 

I had a few of the dash lights go out so I went with LED replacements and I am happy with the results. Here is what I purchased:

3x NEO5-RHP: 5mm Red
1x NEO5-RHP: 5mm Amber(orange)

http://www.superbrightleds.com

In order to install the LED you have to use a razor and trim down the width of the locking tabs. Essentially, the locking tabs are too fat to fit on the hole. While the picture below looks excessively bright it is because of the camera and the actual look is great. Also, i read complaints about the ability of the LED to fully light the gauges and I am very happy with the results as the light dispersion seems uniform.

 

I could not keep the an fittings on the back of the rail that connected to the FPR from leaking and coming loose. Unfortunately, I had to ditch the setup and go to something that I knew would be leak free.


The inlet to the Aeromotive FPR is -6 female o-ring boss (ORB), but the end of the rail I use is setup the same as the factory rail. I needed a way to adapt the regulator straight to the rail so I purchased the Fuel Injector Clinic (FIC) rail that was tapped -8 ORB on each end. Aeromotive sells a nice -6 ORB to -8 ORB swivel fitting (Aeromotive 15681) that allowed me to attach the regulator to the end of the rail. BTW, this rail is great quality and was $127 shipped from MAP.

So far so good and I am leak free I also had to rotate the top of the Aeromotive FPR 180deg so the boost reference was on the correct side.

 

UPDATE:
I decided to change the fuel filter setup because I wanted the water seperater for my upcoming switch to E85. The filter from Squash was working well, but I wanted something different. This unit flow 5gpm or enough to support ~3x Walbro 400 pumps. Ran this same filter on my Z and have a few friends with fast cars running it as well.

81794 High Performance Fuel Filter Head




I was able to start tuning the car tonight and it is feeling strong at 30psi so I should be able to hit the dyno soon for some updated numbers.

 

I was able to tune last night and made some changes to the timing curve. The run had some slight knock at initial boost, but I have backed off on the timing. With the new 10:1 2L I am currently -1deg(4250) ramped up to 8deg(8000rpm) on 93 octane. Car pulls hard and spool seems very good with 32psi @ 4239rpm in 3rd gear. I hope to stick this on the dyno in the next two weeks for a new baseline.

 

awesome cant wait to hear the results