Not at all. I am converting to shielded cable on the signal wire as I feel this may be the issue.

 

I got a request to show the throttle cable mod for the Curt Brown Extreme Port intake manifold. Essentially, the throttle cable bracket needs a stand alone hole drilled on the bolt closest to the throttle body. For the passenger side bolt I clipped the end of the throttle cable bracket and used an oversize washer.

 

Whats your price point on the coils?
I found them online for about $140usd each.

 

$135 with connector, but I did not shop around.

 

I think I have this tranny thing figured out, but if you have better information please let me know.

W=AWD
4/5= # of gears
A= Automatic
41/51 = torque rating (higher is better)

Automatic Transmissions for the EVO engine configuration: W4A4B, W4A42, W4A51, W5A51

Here are a list of applications to source the transmissions, which most are from outside of the US.

200?-200? Mitsubishi Evolution VII & IX / 2.0L / W5A51
2001-2008 Mitsubishi AIRTREK / 2.0L / W4A42
2003 Mitsubishi OUTLANDER/ 2.4L / W4A42
2004-05 Mitsubishi Outlander / 2.4L / W4A4B
2005 Mitsubishi LANCER / 2.0L / W4A42
2006 Mitsubishi Outlander / 2.4L / W4A42
2000-2002 Mitsubishi RVR / 2.0L / W4A51 *Strongest 4-speed
2001-2008 Mitsubishi AIRTREK / 2.0L / W5A51
2005-2011 Mitsubishi LANCER / 2.0L / W5A51

 

That's exactly how I did it as well.

 

3.5litre V6 twin turbo Galant/Legnums (ec5a ec5w) came out with Automatics (tiptronic).
I'm pretty sure the gearbox casing will bolt up to an Evo bellhousing.

I'm not sure if they would be stronger than RVR/Airtrek gearboxes?
They are common and "cheap" here in NZ

 

My information says that transmission, if auto, is the W5A51. That is a potential desirable transmission, but I am unsure if it will bolt to the EVO engine. The auto doesn't have a bellhousing, but a complete huge front cover. Can you verify if the transmission can mate to the EvO engine? If so, there are some US options.

I thought about making a simple adapter as I did this to mate a powerglide to my 240Z. However, if you offset the trans 1/2" towards the drivers side you have to deal with a slight change in driveshaft angle and CV axle lengths. Any information you can provide would be great.

 

I had a bell housing here (from a Legnum/Galant Manual gearbox that i used for my 4.111 final drive) and it was a similar shape/size but there were 3 or 4 bolt holes that were in a different position. This is all the pics I have, this is the bolt pattern for the 3.5litre V6 twin turbo engine:

 

Great pictures and thank you. We would need to get the thin plate between the motor/trans from the EVO and overlay it on a W5A51(v6 version) transmission. This will show the potential compatibility and matching bolt holes.

 

an auto v6 bell will be completely different. no way in heck would it bolt to 2.0/2.4 blocks.

 

What about an SST transmission from an EVO X? How do the bolt patterns differ between an IX and X?

 

the 4g63 and 4b11 bolt patterns are different. but very similar looking.

 

UPDATE:

I was finally able to machine the magnesium valve cover so that I could install the Bosch P100-T coils. I was going to completely remove the mounting bosses from the valve cover, but upon further inspection, the bosses are mostly hollow so I had to remove just the material necessary to allow installation.

I will post photos of the coils installed after I cut the square holes in the mounting plate. Should have this operational by next weekend.

 

UPDATE:

I installed the valve cover and checked for coil clearance and everything looks great. I just need to finish the plate and create the wiring harness. Hopefully you can see why I had to machine the valve cover for these coils.







I also wanted to show a cheap fix for the foam that rots in front of the radiator. It is important to block the flow of hot engine air around the top of the radiator. The fan will draw in hot air and reduce the cooling efficiency. I went to Lowe's Hardware and purchase some self adhesive Double D seal seen in the pictures below. I removed all of the rotting foam and lightly wiped the cross member with an acetone dipped rag, but not too much or you will remove paint. You only need to remove the two upper radiator brackets to gain clearance for installation.