you are correct! In most instances especially with kits like the STM version. The relays do not come that way from what I have seen

 

So 85 to ground and 86 to hobbs NO terminal as most of the diagrams here show? , or 86 to ground and 85 to hobbs NO. Im assuming the color of the wire doesnt matter as long as its attached to the right connection/ground.

 

I'm sure you're right. Protected relays aren't nearly as common. I've blown one up before, so I felt compelled to be pedantic.

No idea for your exact hardware, but what I can tell you is the best place to find out is the data sheet. Google the part number on the relay, and I'm sure you will find what you're looking for.

 

Okay I know I'm about to be the millionth person who has brought this thread back from the dead but I was wondering if there wasn't some kind of device that can receive signal from the OEM power wire then use it to control the voltage supplied to the pump through a hard wire kit. I think this is similar to what previous users were saying about using resistor packs to lower the voltage of the hardwire kit in combination with relays but I wonder why there isn't a singular aftermarket solution to this. I know the Hobbs switch is standardized practice but if it possible to control it directly from the ECU then that seems like the superior method to me. Also does anyone know why this radium switch is so expensive? https://www.radiumauto.com/Adjustabl...itch-P921.aspx

 

You can wire it up that way with a relay if I understand what you are asking for? Just use the OEM voltage to trigger a relay for the full battery voltage.

 

There's a lot more wiring involved, but you can use the ECU to control the "rewire" relay. I did it on my car, it wasn't straight forward. The "switch" is normal closed and makes the pump run with key off. So you have to wire that relay to a key power source. Or something, I don't recall exactly. It's just more work than doing a Hobbs switch and not really worth it.

 

In that case is the potential for the Hobbs switch failure that I constantly hear about realistic? Or is it over exaggerated? Also any comment on the 90 dollar switch by radium?

 

The Hobbs switch failing has the same likelihood of a relay failing, so that's not really an argument for or against it.

That radium switch looks like a stainless Motorsports grade switch. Not sure who makes it, but the MAP and pressure sensors that look like that are $200. So it tracks with that.

 

Okay makes sense, appreciate it man.