Building my first engine for a local customer
Just spent another 18hrs straight working on Steves car.. its 99.9% done now.. we just have to replace his mishimoto radiator, since it got a hole in it.. and fill the car with trans & tcase fluid then we will fire it up..
We will be firing the vehicle up Thursday after he replaces his radiator & gets some random misc parts.
Everything was done by the book down to the T.. every part is tq'ed to spec, every part was cleaned before install, etc.. i am very meticulous and because of that it took around 90hrs labor in total to get where we are right now. from bare block to now.
I should also note, im doing all the work practically free.. Steve been a customer of mine for awhile, and i felt bad after his engine let go for some random fuel issue with the full blown pump running 2 pumps at once causing a severe lean condition.
If he would of went with a br double pumper to begin with, i think his engine would be still fine right now.
We will be firing the vehicle up Thursday after he replaces his radiator & gets some random misc parts.
Everything was done by the book down to the T.. every part is tq'ed to spec, every part was cleaned before install, etc.. i am very meticulous and because of that it took around 90hrs labor in total to get where we are right now. from bare block to now.
I should also note, im doing all the work practically free.. Steve been a customer of mine for awhile, and i felt bad after his engine let go for some random fuel issue with the full blown pump running 2 pumps at once causing a severe lean condition.
If he would of went with a br double pumper to begin with, i think his engine would be still fine right now.
Last edited by tscompusa; Dec 19, 2012 at 04:49 AM.
now that its all bundled up and sealed its hard as hell to turn.. i imagine it has a lot of compression right now.
By the sounds of it, the only way to get rid of the scratch would be to polish the crank some more. But you would be risking getting the journal too small if you did it that way.
I have personal experience with a crank with quite a deep groove in it. We had to use it because we didn't have any other options available at the time. It has been holding up great so far on a circuit car that has run four race meets at the 500hp level.
I have personal experience with a crank with quite a deep groove in it. We had to use it because we didn't have any other options available at the time. It has been holding up great so far on a circuit car that has run four race meets at the 500hp level.
Attempt #1 lol - dead battery:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSEffd3EYcE
Attempt #2 - success ...... or not? lol..
I tried to scare him with the ticking noise.. by pretending like i didn't know what it was also haha.. i had him scared for a good hr after that.. he kept asking me about the tick.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQVAUum3QwI
Funny story to the car just turning itself off.. and it had us stumped for about 10minutes.. then we received a crank and cam signal cel and it dinged in my head..
worst case scenario would be the crank had to much endplay and the trigger plate was hitting the crank sensor and blacking out the ecu timing (not possible considering i measured endplay and it was way within spec) or #2 the cam angle sensor was flipped..
well to our surprise it was neither.. the cam angle sensor was just sitting in there dangling! the bolt was loose and it was loose.. this was overlooked because we had to remove the one cam again to place the rocker arms on and i guess we never tightened it back up..
It was a major relief after we seen that loose.
Attempt #3 - success .....YES IT STAYS RUNNING! lol
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGi0gWxozzM
Finally after we torqued the cam angle sensor bolt to spec and properly aligned the cam angle sensor trigger it is now alive and running without shutting off!
I'll have Steve post another video of how it sounds now.. but right now in these videos its got a loud tick because the lifters need filled with oil and properly ran at certain RPM's for a certain amount of times for the tick to go away fully.
He said the ticks fully gone now after hes put about 80 miles on the car so far.
--
This engine sounds so quiet.. his engines very quiet and smooth sounding.
----
next up is remove full blown junk and put in BR double pumper. Tuned the car for about 5minutes at idle.. gave it more fuel since more displacement requires more fuel.. we took it around the block.. man does SD ever run smooth.. it is so smooth.. no notchiness, no jerking.. its very very smooth.. puts a maf car to shame.
my personal evo is about as smooth as any maf car is ever gonna get, and it put it to shame.. on and off throttle is so smooth compared to a maf.. you can stab the throttle and it gets into it smooth like a bmw.
========================================
Random & Final product pics:
I wish i had before pics of the engine bay.. it was filthy and had blue coolant hose.. its night and day difference now.. we cleaned every part before we installed it.







If anyone has any questions feel free to ask. The engine has about 80 miles on it so far.. its getting a light break in due to the tight clearances & the new clutch that needs broken in.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSEffd3EYcE
Attempt #2 - success ...... or not? lol..
I tried to scare him with the ticking noise.. by pretending like i didn't know what it was also haha.. i had him scared for a good hr after that.. he kept asking me about the tick.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQVAUum3QwI
Funny story to the car just turning itself off.. and it had us stumped for about 10minutes.. then we received a crank and cam signal cel and it dinged in my head..
worst case scenario would be the crank had to much endplay and the trigger plate was hitting the crank sensor and blacking out the ecu timing (not possible considering i measured endplay and it was way within spec) or #2 the cam angle sensor was flipped..
well to our surprise it was neither.. the cam angle sensor was just sitting in there dangling! the bolt was loose and it was loose.. this was overlooked because we had to remove the one cam again to place the rocker arms on and i guess we never tightened it back up..
It was a major relief after we seen that loose.
Attempt #3 - success .....YES IT STAYS RUNNING! lol
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGi0gWxozzM
Finally after we torqued the cam angle sensor bolt to spec and properly aligned the cam angle sensor trigger it is now alive and running without shutting off!
I'll have Steve post another video of how it sounds now.. but right now in these videos its got a loud tick because the lifters need filled with oil and properly ran at certain RPM's for a certain amount of times for the tick to go away fully.
He said the ticks fully gone now after hes put about 80 miles on the car so far.
--
This engine sounds so quiet.. his engines very quiet and smooth sounding.
----
next up is remove full blown junk and put in BR double pumper. Tuned the car for about 5minutes at idle.. gave it more fuel since more displacement requires more fuel.. we took it around the block.. man does SD ever run smooth.. it is so smooth.. no notchiness, no jerking.. its very very smooth.. puts a maf car to shame.
my personal evo is about as smooth as any maf car is ever gonna get, and it put it to shame.. on and off throttle is so smooth compared to a maf.. you can stab the throttle and it gets into it smooth like a bmw.
========================================
Random & Final product pics:
I wish i had before pics of the engine bay.. it was filthy and had blue coolant hose.. its night and day difference now.. we cleaned every part before we installed it.







If anyone has any questions feel free to ask. The engine has about 80 miles on it so far.. its getting a light break in due to the tight clearances & the new clutch that needs broken in.
Last edited by tscompusa; Apr 10, 2012 at 07:04 AM.
the car runs great! the ticking noise is quiter then stock now. it now as 110 miles on the motor and clutch. no weird noises, no leaks nothing.
i need to get a BR double pumper, and break in the clutch another 600 miles then it is will be ready to go. hopefully the motor can handle the power.
+1 to TscomTuned for build
i need to get a BR double pumper, and break in the clutch another 600 miles then it is will be ready to go. hopefully the motor can handle the power.
+1 to TscomTuned for build
On your next clutch job, spray the bell housing down with some brake cleaner and Simple Green to get all the old clutch disc material out of there.
Not that it hurts anything, it's just an OCD thing...
And the hairline scratch on the crank.. I had an eagle crank with a scratch like you're describing, (slightly diagonal to the rotation) you could barely catch a nail on it. A small jewelers file with WD40 and very light pressure until the file would no longer catch was all it needed. That was 4 years ago and the motor still runs perfect today with close to 60k on it, after the build.
The breather filter on the valve cover, I'd run a line and locate to an area where there is nothing under it but open road. it will eventually drip oil.
Not that it hurts anything, it's just an OCD thing...

And the hairline scratch on the crank.. I had an eagle crank with a scratch like you're describing, (slightly diagonal to the rotation) you could barely catch a nail on it. A small jewelers file with WD40 and very light pressure until the file would no longer catch was all it needed. That was 4 years ago and the motor still runs perfect today with close to 60k on it, after the build.
The breather filter on the valve cover, I'd run a line and locate to an area where there is nothing under it but open road. it will eventually drip oil.
Last edited by EVO8emUp; Apr 8, 2012 at 10:08 AM.
On your next clutch job, spray the bell housing down with some brake cleaner and Simple Green to get all the old clutch disc material out of there.
Not that it hurts anything, it's just an OCD thing...
And the hairline scratch on the crank.. I had an eagle crank with a scratch like you're describing, (slightly diagonal to the rotation) you could barely catch a nail on it. A small jewelers file with WD40 and very light pressure until the file would no longer catch was all it needed. That was 4 years ago and the motor still runs perfect today with close to 60k on it, after the build.
The breather filter on the valve cover, I'd run a line and locate to an area where there is nothing under it but open road. it will eventually drip oil.
Not that it hurts anything, it's just an OCD thing...

And the hairline scratch on the crank.. I had an eagle crank with a scratch like you're describing, (slightly diagonal to the rotation) you could barely catch a nail on it. A small jewelers file with WD40 and very light pressure until the file would no longer catch was all it needed. That was 4 years ago and the motor still runs perfect today with close to 60k on it, after the build.
The breather filter on the valve cover, I'd run a line and locate to an area where there is nothing under it but open road. it will eventually drip oil.
thats why i said i wish i took before & after pics so people can appreciate how much ive cleaned his car in the process of rebuilding it..
i also did a mini wire tuck for him.. we could of done a full one, but we needed to open the harness and run wires different to get slack and he had no electrical tape so i just did what i could at the time.
but i never used simple green before.. ill have to buy that and check it out.. thanks for the suggestion.. i was just using brake cleaner and wd40.
ya you could barely catch your nail on this scratch.. i think if it was gonna cause issues it would of instantly right?
i rotated the engine a good 50 times and pulled bearings and they were good so i think it will be fine.
the car runs great! the ticking noise is quiter then stock now. it now as 110 miles on the motor and clutch. no weird noises, no leaks nothing.
i need to get a BR double pumper, and break in the clutch another 600 miles then it is will be ready to go. hopefully the motor can handle the power.
+1 to TscomTuned for build
i need to get a BR double pumper, and break in the clutch another 600 miles then it is will be ready to go. hopefully the motor can handle the power.
+1 to TscomTuned for build
also we used MAP's waterpump spacer and it works great. just make sure you have the 4g64 gasket to the block side..






