Mustang power numbers are very easy to be 13% different, torque still depends on rpm sync. I am not arguing I am just saying there is only one other car that is close to 800 ft lbs. 630+ is normally the venue of 42R cars or big motors with slightly smaller turbos (like 3586/3794/etc.)

 

Just to be clear, I never said my car makes 800ft lbs. of torque. I said it made 660lbs. Maybe that number was incorrect because the dyno was set improperly? I have no idea because I didn't set it up that day. I have no idea what it would do on a dynojet and I really don't care. Its not about HP numbers for me. If it was, I would have posted up a dyno sheet months ago for everyone to oogle over. But that's not for me. I care how the car runs and if it will run a number or not. I never said anything about ET because quite honestly, it sucked. I ran the car on stock Evo8 rims with some all season tires.

I only mentioned the power numbers so that those of you helping me discern the damage on this clutch hub might have an idea of the potential cause. That's all.

The fact is that the car makes some steam. Call Speed Industries in Troy, MI and ask the owner (Alexi) what it made on that hot July day last summer. It holds the record for AWD power on their dyno so far.

 

Scotts car went 138 with only 490whp on that dyno.. (over 3200lb with him in it at the time) i guess that should say something.

the only reason i mentioned it, was so people can realize your power is not being done on the average mustang dyno.

glad you dont mind i exposed your trap speed

 

Tom, I neither confirmed nor denied that trap speed

 

Thanks for the tip. I spoke with Evan today and he was very helpful over the phone. I'll keep everyone posted on the developments.

 

hope this dosent happen to mine i have the same amount of miles as you not even close to that tq id guess you have a stroker 2.3 or 2.4 ?

 

I would agree those would be record numbers for the Speed Industry synonym for AWD. It was shown the Speed Industry dyno is around 21% off froma dynojet as proven years ago with the same car between Buschur/Pure/Switzer/Speed. They were all done within a month period of time.

This issue with the Exedy hub is surprising. I would be curious of the Rockwell hardness and the material used. Being a dry gear I suspect it would be somewhere in the 50 range although the material is more important than the hardness. I suspect the hardness of the clutch hubs slightly exceeds that of the center hub that took that damage. I am glad you are talking to Evan - you are in the right direction.

So far the quartermaster 8-orb has been a great clutch. I installed one in a guys car and have another one to install shortly in another car I am working on. The entire assembly is 18ish lbs. that is almost half of the Exedy.

 

OK, I've learned a couple of things I'll share about these Exedy triples, and I want to give a big shout-out to Evan @ Exedy Clutches.

OK, so it turns out that Exedy clutches North America warehouse is 15 minutes from where I live. I'm not sure how I didn't know this before now

I contacted Evan and he was kind enough to invite me to bring him the clutch so he could look at it and give me his diagnosis. It seems that these clutches are sensitive to the pressure plate being lifted too high when disengaging. Ideally, the adjustment of clutch disengagement out to be as close to the floor as possible while still allowing it to fully disengage. Mine was actually disengaging about 3/4 fully out. When the adjustment is this way it allows too much play in the disks and will eventually cause wear similar to what mine was showing. Evan said he has seen this with other units that have the clutch adjusted the same way mine was.

So, after learning this, and Evan assuring me that my car is not overpowering the parts, he offered to fix it for me as a good-will gesture, and because I'm a fellow Michigander

Today I meet up with him at the warehouse to pick up the clutch and he tells me he replaced the hub, the disks and even gave me the upgraded pressure plate which makes the clutch have even more clamping force at no cost as a goodwill gesture from the company. Basically, my clutch is now the heavy duty version of the Exedy triple capable of holding 900ft.lbs. of torque

Needless to say, I'm very thankful to Exedy, and particularly, Evan for such gracious customer service. I certainly didn't expect this in any way at all, but I am very thankful.

Just so you guys know, Evan is an old-skool DSM guy. He's got a monster of his own which I saw pics of. Plus, he races a Subie in Rally Car races for Exedy, so he's a true enthusiast like us, and he knows his stuff. Thanks Evan!

Below is a pic of the man himself!

 

Great to hear, its rare for a vendor to step up like that these days.

 

Good info! Hands for sharing. I just bought a used one of these with the same problem. Glad to hear that its very easy to resolve the issue.

 

I agree. Its really remarkable. Compared to the attitude I've received from another vendor on this board, its a refreshing change, that's for sure.


Best of luck with that clutch. I'm looking forward to getting mine back in....

 

I dont buy that diagnosis. He essentially claims the wear is coming from the plates rattling. disengaged too far would allow more plate movement for sure. but the plates are under no power whatsoever. This wear is clearly NOT coming from just the plates rattling.

glad you basically got a free clutch out of them.

 

Glad it worked out for you. Evan has always been super helpful.

 

Thread re-opened. Keep it on track, no more drama

 

My Exedy Triple Ceramic looked much worse than your's did after ~1,500 miles. The teeth on the lower friction plate were completely gone, the teeth on the second plate were a little better looking, and the teeth on the third plate looked fine. The spline was a different story. My spline had notches all the way up where each plate was. I was using the stock master cylinder and slave cylinder. My theory is, after the clutch started wearing down the master cylinder rod ran out of room for adjustments which prevented the clutch from fully letting go bewteen shifts. After a while I was unable to get into first gear at a stop. I had to trun the car off to get into gear. I should have converted to hyd. TOB when I converted my twin to a triple. I learned my lesson. I went back to the twin ceramic. I'm now looking into the 8-leg. Time will tell how that performs/lasts...