Bad Bish, the next generation-introducing the clutchless 4 speed.
Well guys, it definitely WORKS! Ran 3 of the 6 autocross runs today and it worked perfect, I didn't run them all because this is still in testing. I then went and made the first 1/4 mile run in it. 30 psi, really really soft on the timing, 11.4:1 AFR, running the Dunlap tires I autocrossed on with 36 psi in them. I left the line on the foot brake at 3200 rpm, which was 3 psi. The pass was so smooth I wasn't sure what it ran..............9.94 a 140 mph with a 1.57 sixty foot. Tomorrow we are going to put the slicks on, Kevin is going to jump in it and run Quick class with it and see if it will hold up!
I started a new thread on this saying it went 9's, there is a link to Youtube in it
BTW, we got the trans out today and found the problem. It's a bit odd but I am VERY happy to report it is an easy fix, shouldn't happen again and the car should be running in a few days again!
The main thing is we did not lose the clutches or any hard parts!!!!!
BTW, we got the trans out today and found the problem. It's a bit odd but I am VERY happy to report it is an easy fix, shouldn't happen again and the car should be running in a few days again!
The main thing is we did not lose the clutches or any hard parts!!!!!
We are NOT going to take the trans apart or replace anything more than the converter and pump. Then try it again. I need to know what we can push, what is going to fail so we can address it as it goes.
So, I'm going to keep the technical updates in here.
The car is back together, drove it Wednesday, it felt FAST, I've never driven this engine combo past 32 psi and it's at about 38 psi from the 9.55 run at the Shootout. I'm fairly certain the 9.55 pass the trans damage from the pump failure was already showing it's ugly face and that's why the MPH didn't reflect an 8 psi increase in boost from the 9.9 pass.
We did nothing in the trans except fix the pump and try a new input shaft we machined, the other was damaged from the pump failing.
Today I took the car for a drive, longest drive I've taken it on. It is a complete joy to drive for me, the horrible driveline noise I've dealt with is gone. The stiff engine bushings, mustache bar, rear diff supports, solid drive shaft bushings etc. are all unable to be heard, use to be the whining noise on decel was horrible. It's a great relief having the car so quiet in the driveline.
I also did some checking with the GPS for RPM vs MPH. Here are some basic results:
35 mph in 3rd gear is 2000 rpm.
55 mph in 4th gear is 2350 rpm.
70 mph in 4th gear is 2900 rpm.
There are a lot of cops where I was driving and it's only 55 mph so I didn't hold 70 mph to long, I'm actually guessing the rpm is actually closer to 2750 once the car is stable but for now let's call it 2900 rpm at 70 mph.
Downshifting......basically this takes some technique. The trans is being shifted manually, so when you tell it to do something it does it NOW! If you are decelerating and down shift it is basically brutal. Imagine being in your 5 speed manual trans, slowing down and just being able to push the shifter with no clutch into the next lower gear, that's what you are doing to this trans. IF there was a computer with a PWM circuit it could probably be controlled to be smooth, that will probably never happen from us. Now here's what's cool. If you are in 4th gear and want to pull out to pass someone, you can accelerate (I only did this with "light" throttle) and then pull it down a gear and it's smooth as glass. So here is my suggestion on how this trans needs to be driven:
Since you cannot rev match a down shift in it like you do a manual trans there is no real way to make a smooth down shift and it is abrupt when you do it. I've never been a big down shifting type of guy anyway, using the clutch to slow a car down is STUPID, that's why they have brake pads. So, when I drive this around until I am going slow enough that I know the car should be TWO gears lower than it is I don't down shift it. Fact is you can pull up to a light in 4th gear with no ill effects and then just down shift to first and start over, that is the smartest thing to do, will have the least wear and tear and is by far the smoothest. Actually, while I won't recommend it, if you were super lazy you could drive the car in 3rd gear in traffic and never shift at all because it takes off nicely even in 3rd gear for slow moving traffic.
After my drive I wanted to make sure the car was running good before loading it up tonight...........to say it felt good would be a huge understatement. I have high hopes for the car tonight, weather looks terrible but I am due some good luck I think, I've put the time and effort in, we will see.
The car is back together, drove it Wednesday, it felt FAST, I've never driven this engine combo past 32 psi and it's at about 38 psi from the 9.55 run at the Shootout. I'm fairly certain the 9.55 pass the trans damage from the pump failure was already showing it's ugly face and that's why the MPH didn't reflect an 8 psi increase in boost from the 9.9 pass.
We did nothing in the trans except fix the pump and try a new input shaft we machined, the other was damaged from the pump failing.
Today I took the car for a drive, longest drive I've taken it on. It is a complete joy to drive for me, the horrible driveline noise I've dealt with is gone. The stiff engine bushings, mustache bar, rear diff supports, solid drive shaft bushings etc. are all unable to be heard, use to be the whining noise on decel was horrible. It's a great relief having the car so quiet in the driveline.
I also did some checking with the GPS for RPM vs MPH. Here are some basic results:
35 mph in 3rd gear is 2000 rpm.
55 mph in 4th gear is 2350 rpm.
70 mph in 4th gear is 2900 rpm.
There are a lot of cops where I was driving and it's only 55 mph so I didn't hold 70 mph to long, I'm actually guessing the rpm is actually closer to 2750 once the car is stable but for now let's call it 2900 rpm at 70 mph.
Downshifting......basically this takes some technique. The trans is being shifted manually, so when you tell it to do something it does it NOW! If you are decelerating and down shift it is basically brutal. Imagine being in your 5 speed manual trans, slowing down and just being able to push the shifter with no clutch into the next lower gear, that's what you are doing to this trans. IF there was a computer with a PWM circuit it could probably be controlled to be smooth, that will probably never happen from us. Now here's what's cool. If you are in 4th gear and want to pull out to pass someone, you can accelerate (I only did this with "light" throttle) and then pull it down a gear and it's smooth as glass. So here is my suggestion on how this trans needs to be driven:
Since you cannot rev match a down shift in it like you do a manual trans there is no real way to make a smooth down shift and it is abrupt when you do it. I've never been a big down shifting type of guy anyway, using the clutch to slow a car down is STUPID, that's why they have brake pads. So, when I drive this around until I am going slow enough that I know the car should be TWO gears lower than it is I don't down shift it. Fact is you can pull up to a light in 4th gear with no ill effects and then just down shift to first and start over, that is the smartest thing to do, will have the least wear and tear and is by far the smoothest. Actually, while I won't recommend it, if you were super lazy you could drive the car in 3rd gear in traffic and never shift at all because it takes off nicely even in 3rd gear for slow moving traffic.
After my drive I wanted to make sure the car was running good before loading it up tonight...........to say it felt good would be a huge understatement. I have high hopes for the car tonight, weather looks terrible but I am due some good luck I think, I've put the time and effort in, we will see.
No difference when you autocross it, the down shift will need to be made at the point you are ready to accelerate again for it to be smooth and not upset the car and possibly damage the trans.