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Installed new clutch.. Car won't go into gear, help!

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Old Apr 22, 2012 | 12:18 PM
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IntegxX's Avatar
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Installed new clutch.. Car won't go into gear, help!

I recently installed a new exedy stage 1 clutch. The install went fine but when I first drove the car, gears were alittle tough to get into. I adjusted the clutch pedal and right after, the shifts were smooth and everything drove fine. A few minutes later the gears were starting to stick and now the car won't go into any gear, especially reverse. When the car is off, it goes into gears fine... So the only I got to move it was by shifting into gear with the car off then starting it while in 1st/reverse. Any help on what the problem can be? Also, I bled the clutch line after the install and the shifter cables seem fine.
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Old Apr 22, 2012 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by IntegxX
I recently installed a new exedy stage 1 clutch. The install went fine but when I first drove the car, gears were alittle tough to get into. I adjusted the clutch pedal and right after, the shifts were smooth and everything drove fine. A few minutes later the gears were starting to stick and now the car won't go into any gear, especially reverse. When the car is off, it goes into gears fine... So the only I got to move it was by shifting into gear with the car off then starting it while in 1st/reverse. Any help on what the problem can be? Also, I bled the clutch line after the install and the shifter cables seem fine.
you probably damaged the round collar which locks the TOB, so now its sticking because its partially not engaged. I had that happen to me. You need to look carefully and see.

Try to disengage the clutch fork and then inspect with a flash light, the collar. Its hard as the whole is so small to see through.

Then re engage the clutch fork. Maybe it didn't lock all the way in.
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Old Apr 22, 2012 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 190hpkilla

Try to disengage the clutch fork and then inspect with a flash light, the collar. Its hard as the whole is so small to see through.

Then re engage the clutch fork. Maybe it didn't lock all the way in.
this happen me when we where putting my buddy's clutch in. hopefully your wavy clip didn't pop out, or else your gonna have to remove the trans again..
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Old Apr 22, 2012 | 12:59 PM
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^x2
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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 06:31 PM
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Recently bled the clutch line again and surprisingly the car worked fine. Then after a couple minutes of driving the same problem occurred. Could the hydrolic pump that engages the clutch be going out? Maybe a leak in the clutch line?
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Old Apr 25, 2012 | 06:54 PM
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V

Originally Posted by IntegxX
Recently bled the clutch line again and surprisingly the car worked fine. Then after a couple minutes of driving the same problem occurred. Could the hydrolic pump that engages the clutch be going out? Maybe a leak in the clutch line?
Check for leaks outside and inside under the cowl.
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Old Apr 25, 2012 | 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by IntegxX
Recently bled the clutch line again and surprisingly the car worked fine. Then after a couple minutes of driving the same problem occurred. Could the hydrolic pump that engages the clutch be going out? Maybe a leak in the clutch line?
there is no pump for the clutch it works the same way your brakes do.

When the car is in gear and running does it still try to move even with the clutch depressed? It sounds like your clutch is not disengaging fully. You might consider bleeding the clutch more thoroughly, there can be alot of air hiding in there and if it was some mechanical with the TOB, bleeding the clutch wouldn't make the issue go away. However if you bleed the clutch and fixed the problem but more air got in the line or moved up to the slave cylinder then it could..... I'd start there.

Basically, check everything you can BEFORE you take the trans out again.
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Old Apr 26, 2012 | 11:02 AM
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tob or wedge collar FTW!!
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by xxanchormonxx
^x2
x3
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 08:24 PM
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Wouldn't hurt to check your slave cylinder too!
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Old May 1, 2012 | 01:41 PM
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Thanks for the Advice guys. Found the problem. First, I checked if the wedge collar (wavy clip) was still intact. It was. Second I bleed the clutch line one more time. Turns out the Slave Cylinder wasnt working properly. Replaced the Clutch Slave Cycliner. STILL WASNT Engaging into gear. Turns out, when I adjusted the clutch pedal, I pulled it out to far... So the clutch stroke didnt give it enough pump to engage the Fork. I adjusted the clutch pedal back down and the car worked fine. Siked to finally get the evo back on the road.
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Old May 1, 2012 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by IntegxX
Thanks for the Advice guys. Found the problem. First, I checked if the wedge collar (wavy clip) was still intact. It was. Second I bleed the clutch line one more time. Turns out the Slave Cylinder wasnt working properly. Replaced the Clutch Slave Cycliner. STILL WASNT Engaging into gear. Turns out, when I adjusted the clutch pedal, I pulled it out to far... So the clutch stroke didnt give it enough pump to engage the Fork. I adjusted the clutch pedal back down and the car worked fine. Siked to finally get the evo back on the road.
Not trying to thread jack ya but does your stage 1 clutch seem to engage and disengage more towards the top of the clutch pedal compared to the stock clutch that engaged and disengaged more towards the middle of the pedal? Really not liking the feel of my Exedy stage 1 after a few thousand miles, I adjusted it down but then I get high RMP lockout 1st to 2nd.

Anyway glad you figured out your issue.
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Old May 2, 2012 | 07:21 AM
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From my experience, mitsu clutches seem to engage closer to the top then most clutches (stock clutch that is)
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