It shouldn't if its adjusted properly. Some people claim there's still popped off with it adjusted correctly although I don't think its physically possible. Only way is if the retainer ring broke or the groove in the tob where the ring sits gets worn out and lets go. The ring gets all bent up like in my case only when it pops off.

 

Finished up last night and drove it today. Evo is back in action with the fork stopper adjusted very close to fork. Hopefully this thread gives people a heads up to what could happen if you don't have a stopper or if its adjusted incorrectly.

 

Yup, just adjusted mine last nite!

 

Congrats.. After adjusting mine a lot closer to the fork I had a successful day of racing at the local 1/8 mile and nothing happened, hopefully it stays that way!

 

Ordered one for me an got my friends adjusted ....good thread ...Thanks for the info wizzo. Glad the car is ripping it up again.

 

Sorry to bring up an old thread but I'm having a hard time finding how to remove the wave ring itself, seeing as you have replaced yours you might have some insight on this. What is the best way to remove the wave ring?

 

Wide flathead screwdriver and a lot of patients. You might get lucky and have it pop off first try. I fought mine for about a half hour when I replaced my clutch. I walked away for 10-15 min. Came back and magically it came of first try.

 

Thanks sir!

 

The easiest way to get it to pop is to move the fork with your opposite hand, to release "pressure" off it, it pops very easily that way.

 

Glad this thread was brought back... Ive only been on here about six months and mine needed adj really bad. Thanks. I pulled the tranny once and I don't look forward to doing that again.

 

So there may be some confusion, so to clear things up here is the pic of the piece I'm talking about the wave ring. It's the spring clip piece in between the TOB and the pressure plate, I attached a pic of it circled on the Exedy twin disc from STM and a pic of the wave ring itself from STM, hope this clears things up. The TOB was a pain only because the engine was seized up but I got that off no prob but that was not my concern, that wave ring in the pics was the focus, I just pried it off by hand and it came off immediately and the new one will pop right in, very easy to do with the clutch fully exposed. FYI to all "Please get a clutch fork stop to prevent damage to this wave ring as you have to drop the trans to replace the wave ring not fun for something so simple" thanks for responding guys!

 

Just to share some info, I also had broken a wedge collar (a.k.a the infamous clutch clip) on my exedy twin, and had to go through all of this. Afterwards, I adjusted it tight as you guys are discussing, credit card, to actually setting it with feeler gauges. Since then, indeed it has not popped off, however, I have not 'no-lift' shifted the car since popping the clip off the first time, which is what originally happened.

The next issue came about after the DSM shootout, when I let the clutch out too slow on a couple passes from the launch and seem to have took off some material I had to adjust the pedal to get the engagement height correct again, and then realized the clutch was slipping under WOT. I discovered my clearances on the fork stop were no longer there and it was touching, causing the issue. I readjusted and everything was fine for a bit, then it started slipping again so I went back, checked, and sure enough no good. I gave it a little bit more, back to a credit card thickness, and made sure the stopper was good n tight. After that everything seems to be back on track.

Just wanted to share that in case anyone runs across any slipping afterwards, be observant and don't hesitate to check the stopper often.

 

I have the STM clutch fork stop adjusted to credit card clearences and never had a problem, very great product

 

Quick question when installing the clutch do you attach the clip to the clutch or to the TOB ?

 

Clutch. The tob snaps into it and locks in