Build questions.
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Evolving Member
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From: Marietta, PA
Build questions.
I have an HTA35R kit from buschur along with a tubular mani and dump pipe(non FF) purchased from another member on the forum. Do I need any special O2 housing or downpipe?
I also have an AEM EMS V.1 what setup should I be using to control boost with this?
lastly I am running an HTA35R w/2.3L stroker, double pumper with ID 2000's on E85 should I have or do I need a new fuel rail or FPR?
I have limited access to materials and limited time to research since I am in Afghanistan and the member never installed Manifold and dump pipe on his car.
I also have an AEM EMS V.1 what setup should I be using to control boost with this?
lastly I am running an HTA35R w/2.3L stroker, double pumper with ID 2000's on E85 should I have or do I need a new fuel rail or FPR?
I have limited access to materials and limited time to research since I am in Afghanistan and the member never installed Manifold and dump pipe on his car.
The turbo kit didn't come with a down pipe or 02? What kind of hot side is on the turbo? Most turbo kits usually include a downpipe that fits the kit. If you don't have one, you may need to contact Buschur to see if you can get one from them.
You can use either a mbc or ebc to control boost. It probably gonna be up to you.
You don't have to upgrade your fpr or fuel rail, but I would recommend doing it only only because I had my factory FPR fail after being subjected to the constant psi fluxuation from the double pumper kicking off and on.
You can use either a mbc or ebc to control boost. It probably gonna be up to you.
You don't have to upgrade your fpr or fuel rail, but I would recommend doing it only only because I had my factory FPR fail after being subjected to the constant psi fluxuation from the double pumper kicking off and on.
If you are inclined to figure out how to tune your boost control tables on the AEM, I would go with electronic as it offers more control like by speed for example. If you are like me and don't want to mess with that crap, then just stick with a manual boost controller, as it will work fine for anything under 650hp or so and is way easier to setup and change boost with. I would say once you start making more than that, then boost by speed might be necessary to keep from spinning too much in 1st.
For reference I make around 520-540whp depending on how hot it is and I still spin a bit in first, but it is manageable. Perhaps even the 600whp level would require boost by speed.
As far as the fuel rail and regulator go, I would consider replacing the regulator, but the rail should be fine. I know somebody that ran stock regulator and rail and ran high 9s (over 700whp), but aftermarket regulator would be safer.
For reference I make around 520-540whp depending on how hot it is and I still spin a bit in first, but it is manageable. Perhaps even the 600whp level would require boost by speed.
As far as the fuel rail and regulator go, I would consider replacing the regulator, but the rail should be fine. I know somebody that ran stock regulator and rail and ran high 9s (over 700whp), but aftermarket regulator would be safer.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
iTrader: (31)
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 324
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From: Marietta, PA
Thanks for the info, as for the turbo it did come with an O2 housing I am just kind of curious I guess how the whole set up works, its a 3582 it came with a 44mm tial external wastegate and cast mani, but I bought a tubular manifold with a dump pipe. So I am not sure if it will match up, guess I might just have to wait and see until I get back.
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