What if it was hardwired? Doesn't the Walbro 255 also do really well when hardwired?

 

At 13.5 volts, it flows 4 liters/min at 80 psi which corresponds to about the pressure needed to provide the correct fuel rail pressure at 25 psi of boost (probably your approximate boost at peak whp). That flow rate is good for maybe 480 whp on e85. A good rewire might consistently hold 14 volts which might be just enough to support 500 whp. And I'm not being conservative about the whp numbers.

 

I just ordered the E85 version of the pump. I should get it early next week. I will post up pics of the install.

Later in the year I might upgrade to a double pumper running two of the E85 versions.

 

Searching for an answer I came across this thread, I was wondering if anyone has installed the AEM E85 fuel pumps yet and can tell me what the heck the small black wire is for?

Also, just an FYI these pumps are not a direct replacement for a Walbro 255, the connectors are completely different so you'll have to cut, solder, and heatshrink the wires.

Here they are installed on my Fullblown dual pump hanger



What is this small black wire for?!?!?!




BTW, here is a link to my build thread of my turdbox DSM if anyone cares to see what I'm working on.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dsm-...-awd-auto.html

Thanks for any answers to my question.

 

Finally got a day off work and was able to contact AEM.

They told me that the black wire is to be left alone and just dangle in the fuel tank.

WTF?

 

*If a Moderator needs to split this thread to separate my troubleshooting issues since the original post if it's gone too far OT with my problems, I understand. Please just let me know in advance.

Update:
I've been so insanely busy I haven't had any time to work on my Evo or even post here. I took the car back to FFTEC since I wanted a shop to look at it. My problem since my last post turned out to be a clogged injector. I took the car BACK to FFTEC to have them diagnose it and install the DW300 just to make sure nothing about the install and wiring was messed up due to m own error. They sent the injectors out to FIC to have them cleaned/replaced I'm not sure which and installed the DW300, and it ran it just fine.

after picking up the car which was running perfectly I drove it to the Chevron E85 station on Stevens Creek Blvd, San Jose where I've been many times before, filled it up and went back home and to work the next day, dropped it off on lunch for a tire rotation and when I picked it up, it wouldn't start. Brand new fuel pump seemed to be dead again. About 100 miles total on the new DW300. Towed it back home and it sat for a long time until today when I took the fuel pump out and found another equally filthy grey fuel filter sock as last time. This means that from being brand new to this state took 100 miles on brand new fuel. (unless this happened while it was sitting still in the tank since the pump seems to have died-highly unlikely)

Looks familiar from the Walbro 255 sock a few pages back doesn't it?





My hands were clean even after removing he old pump ***'y but after cutting open this sock they had gray "dirt" on them, so the only dirty part of this was the sock itself. It's almost like there's smething in my fuel system that continues to corrode/**** in my fuel tank and clog my filter socks, killing my fuel pumps no matter what.

What could cause this? I thoroughly cleaned the tank with my own hands, but just the driver side so I haven't check the "return" fuel filter on the passenger side. I wanted to do the passenger side but there is a plug/connector there that even after I removed the bolts doesn't want to come loose and I'm scared to pull on it too hard and break something. Even if that were an issue I don't see how this could cause my fuel filter sock t get so filthy within 100 miles. I'm wondering if I've been getting fuel with lots of contaminants in it or something?

No idea how to proceed from here besides buy my 4th fuel pump this year and switch back to 91oct. and stick with 91 and go stroker and bigger turbo or go all out with a race fuel system from scratch-new lines, etc.

HELP!

 

i think that **** landlord you had put something in your tank... she sounds ****ing nuts. or maybe she put something else in there??

 

*cu*nt landlord *fu*cking nuts

 

After all that, you would consider the possibility right? I now have my own 2 car garage though. This car was so reliable until I hardwired the fuel pump. Since posting today I found my FIC flow test result sheet, and I'm not sure the result were actually a "clog" as FFTEC said. They still read "good" for every injector. They did send me home with a spare Walbro for some reason. Maybe they knew I was ****ed and it was going to happen again as soon as I left.

 

Unhardwire the pump. It may not be the cause of the issue you are seeing, but it causes more trouble than help with fuel pressure control. Have you replaced any of the fuel line with something other than stock?

 

i highly doubt the hot wire is the issue... if anything pump should run better because its getting proper voltage.

 

i think i read that wrong.. what i do is put a relay right by the pump and use the factory fuel pump wire to trigger the relay on, then run a thick gauge wire to the relay, and go out of the relay to the pump. then just ground the remaining post on the relay. now when the pump is told to kick on it will flip the relay on and you will get good power going to the pump... insufficient power can also burn a pump up, but i still think someone put something in your tank... sugar wont blow your car up but i imagine it would make a nasty mess.

 

Not sure if you drive or work on Evos, but a DD Evo should not be wired up to run full-time battery voltage. It overruns the fuel return system at idle and cruise which messes up not only the fuel trims, but also causes the car to run lean at WOT because the fuel trims affect WOT on a Evo. And running at less than battery voltage is not a problem for in-tank fuel pumps like the stock Denso or a Walbro 255. In fact, they run cooler and will last longer if run at ~8-10 V during idle and cruise.

 

Besides the fact that you seem to be right every time about everything, i think you may be right in this case again, because my car ran perfectly fine until i hardwired it. I only did it because i was told i had very slight lean spot allegedly due to a dip in voltage, which is rumored to be s common problem on early VIIIs, and failure of pump
Like the DW300 has been blamed on insufficient voltage.

However, my real world problems agree that the hardwire started the problem, caused symptoms resembling FPR overrun then pump burn- out.

Still doesnt explain my chronically and immediately dirty fuel filter socks though.

 

Since there are probably quite a few people out there running full-time battery voltage without the same frequency of pump failure that you're having, I doubt that's the main cause of the pump failure, but its definitely not helping the situation.

Still wondering if your fuel system is entirely stock except for the pump upgrade and rewire. You didn't answer before.