Interested in a high output Alternator?
I've upgraded alternators in both my other cars from 65-70A to 130A, and I am a supporter of this idea.
A few notes:
I wouldn't assume an underdrive pulley to be a necessity in many (if not most) cases. A larger capacity alternator delivers more current at idle with the original pulley.
I don't see a reason to upgrade the 40A master fuse unless it's causing issues as is. The fuse sees only current demand, not supply. 40A X 12V = 4800 watts.
- 55w HIDs draw about 3.5A each when warm.
- 100W halogens draw about 8.3A each.
- Walbro 255s draw about 7A each at idle and about 10A under load
- 1000W worth of stereo equipment however will draw 90+A when cranked.
But this is drawn directly from the battery, so it's a matter of battery and alternator capacity only, not the master fuse.
I don't know the current demands of most aftermarket ignitions, but those represent a high instantaneous current draw, which is largely buffered by the battery. If the battery capacity is small and the alternator undersized, that may be enough to cause a voltage drop under load.
A few notes:
I wouldn't assume an underdrive pulley to be a necessity in many (if not most) cases. A larger capacity alternator delivers more current at idle with the original pulley.
I don't see a reason to upgrade the 40A master fuse unless it's causing issues as is. The fuse sees only current demand, not supply. 40A X 12V = 4800 watts.
- 55w HIDs draw about 3.5A each when warm.
- 100W halogens draw about 8.3A each.
- Walbro 255s draw about 7A each at idle and about 10A under load
- 1000W worth of stereo equipment however will draw 90+A when cranked.
But this is drawn directly from the battery, so it's a matter of battery and alternator capacity only, not the master fuse.I don't know the current demands of most aftermarket ignitions, but those represent a high instantaneous current draw, which is largely buffered by the battery. If the battery capacity is small and the alternator undersized, that may be enough to cause a voltage drop under load.
Thanks for the input. I have consistent logs showing my voltage dropping from 14.6/14.3 to 13.1-13.2 under load. Good point on the underdrive pulley... I'll ask to see if we get a price break for not needing an undersized pulley... or if we can re-use our OEM one. Would be nice not to have to buy another belt.
Updating original post... we have 8 confirmed
Good to hear from Ted Thanks for the input. I have consistent logs showing my voltage dropping from 14.6/14.3 to 13.1-13.2 under load.
Good point on the underdrive pulley... I'll ask to see if we get a price break for not needing an undersized pulley... or if we can re-use our OEM one. Would be nice not to have to buy another belt.
Updating original post... we have 8 confirmed
Thanks for the input. I have consistent logs showing my voltage dropping from 14.6/14.3 to 13.1-13.2 under load. Good point on the underdrive pulley... I'll ask to see if we get a price break for not needing an undersized pulley... or if we can re-use our OEM one. Would be nice not to have to buy another belt.
Updating original post... we have 8 confirmed
Check into that and see what it cuts from the price. A reasonably priced, plug and play option should resolve your issue without juggling pulleys and belts. OE alternator pulleys are typically sized to deliver full capacity near idling speeds. That's why more often than not, alternator speeds are reduced in hi-performance and racing applications.
Last edited by Ted B; Nov 7, 2012 at 05:31 PM.
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 83
Likes: 1
From: Australia
The one i use is similar to this and works great, can also Work As a shut off by pushing the button.
My OEM one [Link type] Was not in the best state and this one only makes sense.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150-AMP-12V-...fc29e8&vxp=mtr
My OEM one [Link type] Was not in the best state and this one only makes sense.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150-AMP-12V-...fc29e8&vxp=mtr
Last edited by blowngasket; Nov 8, 2012 at 05:46 AM.
^ thanks for the link. Much appreciated.
We have 9 people confirmed.
I'm going to wait to hear back from the manufacturer on the current questions we have posed and make sure everyone's questions are answered prior to moving forward. So there's a good possibility that we'll have more than 10 people... which may mean yet again lower prices? I don't know, but we'll see. Thank you all for your interest and questions. Keep them coming
-Eric
*** updated the original post with questions and answers to the manufacturer. More questions being posed***
We have 9 people confirmed.
I'm going to wait to hear back from the manufacturer on the current questions we have posed and make sure everyone's questions are answered prior to moving forward. So there's a good possibility that we'll have more than 10 people... which may mean yet again lower prices? I don't know, but we'll see. Thank you all for your interest and questions. Keep them coming
-Eric
*** updated the original post with questions and answers to the manufacturer. More questions being posed***
Last edited by R/TErnie; Nov 8, 2012 at 09:09 AM.
Evolving Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 229
Likes: 1
From: Lima, Peru
Hi guys, here´s a pic of three alternator tables that Merlin has found for the Evo 5/6 xml, what would need changing for the new higher amperage alternator? There´s the one table that specifies amperage.
Cheers,
Ricardo
Cheers,
Ricardo
With regards to the fuse to the main battery... I plan on upgrading the "big 3" when I do the alternator...which requires you to add additional wires to the pre-existing wires. I think in that case they DO use a higher amperage fuse/breaker/fusible link in the additional wire. There are several audio sites that cover the big 3 upgrade, so I'll try not to paraphrase what they do.
If you are going to run parallel conductors, you should verify that if one of the individual conductors short circuits, the overcurrent protective device is sized such that it will interrupt the current before the conductor melts/explodes in your engine bay or makes your battery explode.
Updated the first page with more Questions and Answers.
My most recent question was about the high RPM use and if that would pose a problem. He suggested that he could upgrade it to handle the high RPMS. More details to come in that regard.
Last edited by R/TErnie; Nov 8, 2012 at 12:58 PM.
When I replaced my alternator, the new alternator had a larger pulley (underdriven) then the original pulley. It was directly from the Mitsu dealership and to my knowledge, the one on there was the original. The stock belt works fine and I'm thinking some where along the lines, Mitsu decided to under-drive the alternator after 2003.