Interested in a high output Alternator?
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Will this alternator work on Evo X and Ralliarts. I have ran underdrive pulleys on mustangs but never backed them up with a higher amp alternator. Speaking from experience, using just underdrive pullies you are running your charging system at the ragged edge. You will be a lot less prone to run your battery in acc mode or push your luck in colder weather. A higher amp alternator using less horsepower to turn would be great. I really haven't studied much on the wiring in these cars but I'd say you'd have to upgrade your wiring coming directly off the alternator to your main fuse block/battery.
You could be right, I haven't really looked into it much. Just saw a company that makes them and thought it might work out.
I measured my current alternator. The diameter of the high points on the serpentine belt section was 64.8mm. The original alternator is likely in storage, I'll try to find it in the next couple days.
FWIW, the FSM has a specification for alternator output based on temperature. At -20C standard value is 14.2 - 15.2. I would bet the stock stuff would be fine at 15+ VDC.
As for wiring, the stock wire is 15mm^2 in area or 0.172" Dia, which is between 5-6AWG. Recommended fusing for 6AWG is 55-75A depending on insulation, 5AWG takes you up to 95A. The stock 100A fuse is likely pretty aggressive for the wire size to begin with.
You could add a parallel conductor of 6AWG size and fuse it at 75A. This would get you to 175A capacity and would still protect the factory wire and the new wire.
I measured my current alternator. The diameter of the high points on the serpentine belt section was 64.8mm. The original alternator is likely in storage, I'll try to find it in the next couple days.
FWIW, the FSM has a specification for alternator output based on temperature. At -20C standard value is 14.2 - 15.2. I would bet the stock stuff would be fine at 15+ VDC.
As for wiring, the stock wire is 15mm^2 in area or 0.172" Dia, which is between 5-6AWG. Recommended fusing for 6AWG is 55-75A depending on insulation, 5AWG takes you up to 95A. The stock 100A fuse is likely pretty aggressive for the wire size to begin with.
You could add a parallel conductor of 6AWG size and fuse it at 75A. This would get you to 175A capacity and would still protect the factory wire and the new wire.
Yeah, If a 14V battery would charge at 15.5V or so, I think it would probably work out pretty well. Doesn't really matter though as the only 14V batteries I have found are all in the 25+ pound range.
As for using a capacitor to keep charge up, that's not going to happen. Let's say you tried to hold voltage at the 14.4V level for 10 seconds when the alternator can only put out enough to keep up with 13V. The power difference there is 140W which is 1400J of energy storage. Just to store that much energy to begin with, you would need a ~13 Farrad capacitor. That's considering it dropped all voltage in that time. To keep voltage above 14V, it would have to be a massive capacitor.
As for using a capacitor to keep charge up, that's not going to happen. Let's say you tried to hold voltage at the 14.4V level for 10 seconds when the alternator can only put out enough to keep up with 13V. The power difference there is 140W which is 1400J of energy storage. Just to store that much energy to begin with, you would need a ~13 Farrad capacitor. That's considering it dropped all voltage in that time. To keep voltage above 14V, it would have to be a massive capacitor.
Last edited by 03whitegsr; Nov 10, 2012 at 12:23 PM.
Yeah, If a 14V battery would charge at 15.5V or so, I think it would probably work out pretty well. Doesn't really matter though as the only 14V batteries I have found are all in the 25+ pound range.
As for using a capacitor to keep charge up, that's not going to happen. Let's say you tried to hold voltage at the 14.4V level for 10 seconds when the alternator can only put out enough to keep up with 13V. The power difference there is 140W which is 1400J of energy storage. Just to store that much energy to begin with, you would need a ~13 Farrad capacitor. That's considering it dropped all voltage in that time. To keep voltage above 14V, it would have to be a massive capacitor.
As for using a capacitor to keep charge up, that's not going to happen. Let's say you tried to hold voltage at the 14.4V level for 10 seconds when the alternator can only put out enough to keep up with 13V. The power difference there is 140W which is 1400J of energy storage. Just to store that much energy to begin with, you would need a ~13 Farrad capacitor. That's considering it dropped all voltage in that time. To keep voltage above 14V, it would have to be a massive capacitor.
I've had the Batcap 800 mounted under my passenger seat for 2+ years with no problems I run one 0 Guage wire from my engine bay to inside the cabin fused with a 150amp circuit breaker similar to the one posted earlier in this thread, except mine is the "Stinger" branded one
Anyway Kinetik and other Car Audio battery manufactures also do 16v batteries with dual posts 16v/12v if anyone wanted to try out the adjustable voltage thing.
http://www.batcap.net/AboutUs/Whatis...2/Default.aspx
Looked it up really quick,
OEM Mitsubishi Evo 9 battery w/plastic tray, tiedown, etc. – 36.55 lb
H-6.5"/W-7"/D-3"
Last edited by khmerpimpin; Nov 10, 2012 at 04:28 PM.
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I'd suggest a write up without engineer talk once you guys get it installed and make a list of everything that you guys did as I would feel pretty bad if other people did this and they Burned up their wire harness by not knowing to upgrade parts of their harness. Again, just a suggestion.
