Interested in a high output Alternator?
When I replaced my alternator, the new alternator had a larger pulley (underdriven) then the original pulley. It was directly from the Mitsu dealership and to my knowledge, the one on there was the original. The stock belt works fine and I'm thinking some where along the lines, Mitsu decided to under-drive the alternator after 2003.
Originally Posted by n2orioc
the adjustable external regulator sounds cool. anyone know how high of voltage you can run on these cars and what the first failure point is for higher voltage?
Originally Posted by XLR83N
Any chance of getting one sent to Australia? Please PM with pricing.
Also any idea of the amps on idle with the stock pulley?
Also any idea of the amps on idle with the stock pulley?
Yes we can ship to Australia... USPS delivers there. PM on the way.
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First post updated with information and we have 12 people committed
I'm waiting on the pulley test results and the bearing upgrade for high RPM use (everyone here) I suspect we'll close this bulk purchase on the 16th... so that we can get them made sooner rather than later!-Eric
Last edited by R/TErnie; Nov 9, 2012 at 08:15 AM.
Any comparison to an overdrive pulley option?(on an oe alternator) I came up with Douglas autoworks in a search and they said 20% more capacity there but didn't mention an updated stator .
Jw
Jw
I've tried contacting Douglas Autoworks for a few months. Either they're out of business or don't answer phone calls.
No data on the voltage curves yet. So I can't make guesses to how it would compare against another alternator that hasn't been tested either.
I suspect this one will do far better than an overdriven OEM alt.
No data on the voltage curves yet. So I can't make guesses to how it would compare against another alternator that hasn't been tested either.
I suspect this one will do far better than an overdriven OEM alt.
I'll check and see if I have the original alternator still.
Might be another helpful item, but you can also get a 14V racing battery, although they aren't light. I wonder if you could convince one of these racing battery companies to produce something light and 14V. The advantage being even if the alternator drops out under WOT, the battery should still keep voltage in the 14V range. It works with the standard 14.4V alternator though and with the externally adjustable regulator, you could probably bump it up to 15 or so. This might also improve tuning anyway as you wouldn't see as dramatic of voltage changes under all conditions. Should even help with cold cranking.
Might be another helpful item, but you can also get a 14V racing battery, although they aren't light. I wonder if you could convince one of these racing battery companies to produce something light and 14V. The advantage being even if the alternator drops out under WOT, the battery should still keep voltage in the 14V range. It works with the standard 14.4V alternator though and with the externally adjustable regulator, you could probably bump it up to 15 or so. This might also improve tuning anyway as you wouldn't see as dramatic of voltage changes under all conditions. Should even help with cold cranking.
I'll check and see if I have the original alternator still.
Might be another helpful item, but you can also get a 14V racing battery, although they aren't light. I wonder if you could convince one of these racing battery companies to produce something light and 14V. The advantage being even if the alternator drops out under WOT, the battery should still keep voltage in the 14V range. It works with the standard 14.4V alternator though and with the externally adjustable regulator, you could probably bump it up to 15 or so. This might also improve tuning anyway as you wouldn't see as dramatic of voltage changes under all conditions. Should even help with cold cranking.
Might be another helpful item, but you can also get a 14V racing battery, although they aren't light. I wonder if you could convince one of these racing battery companies to produce something light and 14V. The advantage being even if the alternator drops out under WOT, the battery should still keep voltage in the 14V range. It works with the standard 14.4V alternator though and with the externally adjustable regulator, you could probably bump it up to 15 or so. This might also improve tuning anyway as you wouldn't see as dramatic of voltage changes under all conditions. Should even help with cold cranking.
I'll check and see if I have the original alternator still.
Might be another helpful item, but you can also get a 14V racing battery, although they aren't light. I wonder if you could convince one of these racing battery companies to produce something light and 14V. The advantage being even if the alternator drops out under WOT, the battery should still keep voltage in the 14V range. It works with the standard 14.4V alternator though and with the externally adjustable regulator, you could probably bump it up to 15 or so. This might also improve tuning anyway as you wouldn't see as dramatic of voltage changes under all conditions. Should even help with cold cranking.
Might be another helpful item, but you can also get a 14V racing battery, although they aren't light. I wonder if you could convince one of these racing battery companies to produce something light and 14V. The advantage being even if the alternator drops out under WOT, the battery should still keep voltage in the 14V range. It works with the standard 14.4V alternator though and with the externally adjustable regulator, you could probably bump it up to 15 or so. This might also improve tuning anyway as you wouldn't see as dramatic of voltage changes under all conditions. Should even help with cold cranking.
As far as I can tell, the only purpose of the battery at that point would be to start the car. If you were really dedicated to tracking the car, you could just bring a battery with you to the track for the cold start.
edit: with this alternator and a voltage regulator on the alternator, I really can't see how a capacitor would be helpful besides "flattening" voltage levels. The alternator should be more than sufficient to provide capacity even at WOT. A large capacitor would be a bandaid for an existing system that is breaking up.
Last edited by nollij; Nov 9, 2012 at 11:25 AM.
The ecu going crazy throwing faults would be my guess. I would say at about 15v I cant imagine the electronic control systems would be too happy.
