View Poll Results: Was this thread helpful?
Hell yes! Very useful for the community!
317
98.14%
No way, I still don't know what filter I need!
6
1.86%
Voters: 323. You may not vote on this poll
The OFFICIAL Oil Filter Testing and Results Thread (4G63T/4B11T)
Oct 20, 2014, 01:49 PM
#257
it's been a few years, but i had a folder on my browser dedicated to every single test i could find on filters. we even sent a couple in for testing (not that we don't trust the internet LOL).
i was very happy with the results.
i may have the paperwork saved, but it's pretty much the same as all the other tests i can find via Google. i'll look; now i'm curious.
i was very happy with the results.
i may have the paperwork saved, but it's pretty much the same as all the other tests i can find via Google. i'll look; now i'm curious.
Oct 27, 2014, 07:25 AM
#258
FYI Amsoil got back with simply that it doesn't have an alternative.
Taking bypass pressure into account, honestly I might go elsewhere. How do we know that this doesn't bypass all the time when the engine's getting run pretty hard? don't we have enough pressure to do stuff like pop out dipsticks etc? Maybe that's separate and I'm misunderstanding.
I get that there are some pros to a lower bypass pressure, but in general I would think I'd want higher, especially for a "race car." Maybe lower at cold temps, but definitely higher at race temps at 7000 rpm etc
Taking bypass pressure into account, honestly I might go elsewhere. How do we know that this doesn't bypass all the time when the engine's getting run pretty hard? don't we have enough pressure to do stuff like pop out dipsticks etc? Maybe that's separate and I'm misunderstanding.
I get that there are some pros to a lower bypass pressure, but in general I would think I'd want higher, especially for a "race car." Maybe lower at cold temps, but definitely higher at race temps at 7000 rpm etc
Oct 28, 2014, 02:48 PM
#261
Are you getting the right people to answer these questions. We may want to get VP of technical. Its like all companies depends who you get is the answer.
id be glad to support
id be glad to support
FYI Amsoil got back with simply that it doesn't have an alternative.
Taking bypass pressure into account, honestly I might go elsewhere. How do we know that this doesn't bypass all the time when the engine's getting run pretty hard? don't we have enough pressure to do stuff like pop out dipsticks etc? Maybe that's separate and I'm misunderstanding.
I get that there are some pros to a lower bypass pressure, but in general I would think I'd want higher, especially for a "race car." Maybe lower at cold temps, but definitely higher at race temps at 7000 rpm etc
Taking bypass pressure into account, honestly I might go elsewhere. How do we know that this doesn't bypass all the time when the engine's getting run pretty hard? don't we have enough pressure to do stuff like pop out dipsticks etc? Maybe that's separate and I'm misunderstanding.
I get that there are some pros to a lower bypass pressure, but in general I would think I'd want higher, especially for a "race car." Maybe lower at cold temps, but definitely higher at race temps at 7000 rpm etc
Oct 28, 2014, 07:37 PM
#262
FYI Amsoil got back with simply that it doesn't have an alternative.
Taking bypass pressure into account, honestly I might go elsewhere. How do we know that this doesn't bypass all the time when the engine's getting run pretty hard? don't we have enough pressure to do stuff like pop out dipsticks etc? Maybe that's separate and I'm misunderstanding.
I get that there are some pros to a lower bypass pressure, but in general I would think I'd want higher, especially for a "race car." Maybe lower at cold temps, but definitely higher at race temps at 7000 rpm etc
Taking bypass pressure into account, honestly I might go elsewhere. How do we know that this doesn't bypass all the time when the engine's getting run pretty hard? don't we have enough pressure to do stuff like pop out dipsticks etc? Maybe that's separate and I'm misunderstanding.
I get that there are some pros to a lower bypass pressure, but in general I would think I'd want higher, especially for a "race car." Maybe lower at cold temps, but definitely higher at race temps at 7000 rpm etc
Its not about overall oil pressures, but rather the difference of pressures between one side of the system and the other.
Oct 29, 2014, 02:02 PM
#264
also,
general question that's probably been answered several times already:
convention is to change filter every time you change oil. given that i drive infrequent enough that I only change the oil every 6mos (time basis rather than mileage basis), does it hold true that I should still change the filter every 6mos?
what if i just empty it (to get rid of old oil sitting in it) and fill it with new oil and reinstall it? even if our cars are on a severe maintenance schedule, i shouldn't have to be changing the filters themselves every 1-2k miles should I?
general question that's probably been answered several times already:
convention is to change filter every time you change oil. given that i drive infrequent enough that I only change the oil every 6mos (time basis rather than mileage basis), does it hold true that I should still change the filter every 6mos?
what if i just empty it (to get rid of old oil sitting in it) and fill it with new oil and reinstall it? even if our cars are on a severe maintenance schedule, i shouldn't have to be changing the filters themselves every 1-2k miles should I?
Oct 29, 2014, 07:12 PM
#265
also,
general question that's probably been answered several times already:
convention is to change filter every time you change oil. given that i drive infrequent enough that I only change the oil every 6mos (time basis rather than mileage basis), does it hold true that I should still change the filter every 6mos?
what if i just empty it (to get rid of old oil sitting in it) and fill it with new oil and reinstall it? even if our cars are on a severe maintenance schedule, i shouldn't have to be changing the filters themselves every 1-2k miles should I?
general question that's probably been answered several times already:
convention is to change filter every time you change oil. given that i drive infrequent enough that I only change the oil every 6mos (time basis rather than mileage basis), does it hold true that I should still change the filter every 6mos?
what if i just empty it (to get rid of old oil sitting in it) and fill it with new oil and reinstall it? even if our cars are on a severe maintenance schedule, i shouldn't have to be changing the filters themselves every 1-2k miles should I?
Honestly you may be better off leaving that 6 mos oil in there and instead, replace just the oil filter every 6 mos.
Oct 29, 2014, 10:11 PM
#266
The filter itself should be fine. The only reason I would say to change it is because since you will have already removed it might as well. Why stick a used filter back on? Worst case scenario by reusing the filter in your situation would be the o-ring maybe not sealing as well after being reused,imo.
Honestly you may be better off leaving that 6 mos oil in there and instead, replace just the oil filter every 6 mos.
Honestly you may be better off leaving that 6 mos oil in there and instead, replace just the oil filter every 6 mos.
assuming the filter material is okay, the o-ring would be fine as he wouldn't need to remove it to change the oil.
oil supposedly breaks down over time and collects debris and condensation, i'd imagine? that's why we're supposed to change it. having oil breaking down in the filter is also why i imagine you would want to change that too.
i'm not sure, though. i've NEVER hit the time limit of an oil change LOL. i'm curious, though..
Oct 30, 2014, 08:42 AM
#267
The filter itself should be fine. The only reason I would say to change it is because since you will have already removed it might as well. Why stick a used filter back on? Worst case scenario by reusing the filter in your situation would be the o-ring maybe not sealing as well after being reused,imo.
Honestly you may be better off leaving that 6 mos oil in there and instead, replace just the oil filter every 6 mos.
Honestly you may be better off leaving that 6 mos oil in there and instead, replace just the oil filter every 6 mos.
assuming the filter material is okay, the o-ring would be fine as he wouldn't need to remove it to change the oil.
oil supposedly breaks down over time and collects debris and condensation, i'd imagine? that's why we're supposed to change it. having oil breaking down in the filter is also why i imagine you would want to change that too.
i'm not sure, though. i've NEVER hit the time limit of an oil change LOL. i'm curious, though..
oil supposedly breaks down over time and collects debris and condensation, i'd imagine? that's why we're supposed to change it. having oil breaking down in the filter is also why i imagine you would want to change that too.
i'm not sure, though. i've NEVER hit the time limit of an oil change LOL. i'm curious, though..
Oct 30, 2014, 04:46 PM
#268
Evolving Member
Long time ago, in the earlier days of synthetic oil when you could call Mobil 1 support and talk to an actual engineer, I got this input from them: At that time the Mobil 1 recommended change interval was 12 months or xx,xxx miles, whichever first. The engineer I got on the phone said that when they think about what to recommend for people who do low mileage, they kind of assume that the reason for the low mileage is short trips, so the engine doesn't spend much % of its run time at full temperature. That is an unfavorable condition for the oil, hence, change after so many months.
My Talon, BMW, and Jeep are all low mileage per year, less than 2000 miles per year. I figure, if they are not doing a high percentage of short 4 mile "trips", if they are all street and freeway miles (not track), if there is no wmi injection, if I am using synthetic oil, if I'm not in dusty conditions much, if the car is fine with the same viscosity range year round - with all those "ifs" checked, I'm fine with 1 time per year oil and filter changes. I think. That's what I've been doing anyway, for several years.
Oct 30, 2014, 05:15 PM
#269
Evolved Member
Screw all that jazz. My E36 with 210k miles gets nothing but fram. Never gave me a problem (DD). For a daily, I have no problem using whatever filter is available and follow the oil change interval. But that's me. Come track time, I would definitely use a quality filter (obviously). But anyway... Great info here 
Oct 30, 2014, 05:29 PM
#270
You might be, for the oil and the filter both.
Long time ago, in the earlier days of synthetic oil when you could call Mobil 1 support and talk to an actual engineer, I got this input from them: At that time the Mobil 1 recommended change interval was 12 months or xx,xxx miles, whichever first. The engineer I got on the phone said that when they think about what to recommend for people who do low mileage, they kind of assume that the reason for the low mileage is short trips, so the engine doesn't spend much % of its run time at full temperature. That is an unfavorable condition for the oil, hence, change after so many months.
My Talon, BMW, and Jeep are all low mileage per year, less than 2000 miles per year. I figure, if they are not doing a high percentage of short 4 mile "trips", if they are all street and freeway miles (not track), if there is no wmi injection, if I am using synthetic oil, if I'm not in dusty conditions much, if the car is fine with the same viscosity range year round - with all those "ifs" checked, I'm fine with 1 time per year oil and filter changes. I think. That's what I've been doing anyway, for several years.
Long time ago, in the earlier days of synthetic oil when you could call Mobil 1 support and talk to an actual engineer, I got this input from them: At that time the Mobil 1 recommended change interval was 12 months or xx,xxx miles, whichever first. The engineer I got on the phone said that when they think about what to recommend for people who do low mileage, they kind of assume that the reason for the low mileage is short trips, so the engine doesn't spend much % of its run time at full temperature. That is an unfavorable condition for the oil, hence, change after so many months.
My Talon, BMW, and Jeep are all low mileage per year, less than 2000 miles per year. I figure, if they are not doing a high percentage of short 4 mile "trips", if they are all street and freeway miles (not track), if there is no wmi injection, if I am using synthetic oil, if I'm not in dusty conditions much, if the car is fine with the same viscosity range year round - with all those "ifs" checked, I'm fine with 1 time per year oil and filter changes. I think. That's what I've been doing anyway, for several years.