Lots of great info from DrivenRacingOil. So Im curious to know what MAP and FP would say about their oil requirements now. It seems like they aren't listing anything about the Moly and detergent content in their 'required' oils. This seems to be just as important as their high zinc levels because from what Im gathering MOLY is what will protect until the zinc is activated, and detergents will wash away zinc. Some of their 'required' oils may have high zinc numbers but also have lots of detergents to counteract that fact.

Seems like the FP and MAP turbo owners should focus on a high moly, low detergent oil and not just something with high zinc numbers, imo.

Well I definitely have learned a lot. Makes me re think how I will chose the oil I will run in my evo.

 

Now reveal the 2 oils already ! Lol

 

Its my first poll so maybe 2 weeks was a lot, idk. But after the poll closes May 8th I will reveal. I set it up for this long in hopes to get as many votes as possible.

 

You just described a racing oil! Here is where the fun begins, because you have a turbo, you need more detergent, so the "racing" balance you just described is not the best for a street/track turbo application.

When it comes to the ZDDP activation, this is most critical during break-in. Once the ZDDP film has formed, the film just needs to maintained, so you don't "need" moly to protect until the ZDDP kicks in - the ZDDP film is already established during break-in. That is what makes break-in oil different than regular oils - high levels of fast acting ZDDP with nearly no detergent. The engine assembly lube provides the protection until the ZDDP kicks in - it is all a system approach.

No back to the detergents and turbos. The main point of Moly is friction reduction for more HP. However, most Friction Modifiers like Moly have a tendency to leave deposits. Since race only engines are rebuilt on a regular basis, any build up of deposits is not a big deal. It may not look pretty, but the gain in HP is worth it.

For engines that are expected to go years between rebuilds, these deposits are a problem. It is a really a big problem for turbo engines, and here is why: Turbo engines generate high oil temps and cylinder temps. As a result, Turbo engines require more detergents to prevent build up of deposits in the pistons, rings and turbo bearings. High levels of Moly tend to cause more deposit formation, so the lesser of the two evils is to use a solid detergent package with a solid ZDDP package in a quality synthetic base oil. That type of package will provide good anti-wear protection along with protection against turbo coking and other high temp area deposits that could cause problems.

There is no one-size-fits-all-best-oil. It is always a compromise - just like choosing tires. The best tire for a dry day at the track is not the best for street driving in the rain.

The more specialized the use of the engine and vehicle, the more specialized the lubricant can be. A vehicle that sees both street and track use with longer drain intervals requires a different formula than a car that only sees track use and short drain intervals.

Back to looking at the application first, and then looking for the chemistry that matches the use.

 

Chose neither as zinc and phosphorus ppm are both too low for high boost applications IMHO

 

Seems to be the key to choosing the correct oil.

 

I was just busting your ***** I'm actually surprised the response rate of the polls has been so low. I guess we will see May 8th

 

I'll be honest... I don't know what any of this means... BUT, since there were some guidelines for where the numbers SHOULD be, I made a guess that X would be *slightly* better.

 

Now the money question for driven... Which oils do YOU recommend? Vr1 10-30 is what I've used for the entire life of my Evo.

 

I think he would reply with something along these lines..

You race, or daily drive? Long or short oil change intervals? How much boost and type of turbo? Answering these questions will direct you to the "right" oil for you. VR1 10w-30 (street version) is an excellent oil btw.. Stout additive package, keen to Evo's.

 

Which VR1 were you both talking about? The grey bottle or the synthetic black bottle one?

 

When this is over, I would love to see a scale or a chart that rates a ton of different oils from hight detergant package oils to low detergant package/ race engine ready oils. That would be awesome then people can pick depending on how/what/when they drive.

Great thread!

 

Ask and you shall receive.

In no specific order though, just samples from evo members.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...g-testing.html

 

You might as well post what oils those are, its a moot point keeping people in the dark at this point.

DrivenRacingOil has stole the show and given everyone a solid foundation on how to choose your oil, at least my understanding has now been solidified. I got what I came for.

Cheers

Here are my predictions Mobil 1 and Castrol Syntec.

 

- racing version has less detergents and is intended for shorter OCI's and flushed after a few track events.

- the street version has more of what the racing does not. And can be used for long(er) OCI's. While still offering that stout zinc and phosphorus package.

Zinc and Phos is in the 1200-1400 ppm range for both of these oils (street). Or atleast they should be. Ive seen some low reading VOA's on BITOG from Blackstone, but thats nothing new.. Things may have changed, but this is AFAIK. There is a synthetic variation and conventional of the NSL (non street legal) versions as well.