Ive seen a few posts on this before but there are no solid answers.

The Evo 4G63 block is becoming more rare and prices are high for a new one. I know most guys will go to a 4G64 block because they are a dime a dozen.

I have a 4G63 block that has been machined out to 87mm and since the last failure, there is scoring in the cylinder walls. I cant go any larger on the bore so I was considering sleeving the block and building a spare short block. This would be a cheaper way to save a $1000 block.

I dont know what power levels the sleeves can take since the stock evo block can take 1000hp.

Has anyone done this before? What power did it make? Are there any down sides to this? Ive heard of other engines dropping sleeves if not machined and fit properly.

 

I can be done. but you best bet would be be to talk to your engine builder the machine shop

 

At least this thread contains logical reasoning behind sleeving a 4g63. This is the one case where it might make sense and not because someone's 85mm bores need strengthening

 

Different engines, But same idea.. I have 2 motors with sleeves in them one is a 350 Chevy block Stroked out to 408 that has 1 sleeve in it, it takes a 300 Shot of nos and ive had no issues with it at all. The other engine is a 400CI GM Hi Nickle block, this one has 3 sleeves in it and is a 500HP street car, no issues AT all.
I watched the machine shop install both sets of sleeves, They Froze them down and pressed them in, then Bored them out accordinly.
Ive never had any issues with sleeved engines, BUT ive never sleeved a 4g63 motor, would i?
Possibly, i would have to open it up and see hw much meat you got to work with inbetween the walls.

 

FFTEC had one done and it didnt work out. The standard machine shop sleeving has issues with pushing water past the sleeve at high boost so I wouldnt do that. Darton's run $1500 installed by most places. Buy a 2.4 block if you can resuse any of the reciprocating assembly since you are already at 87mm.

 

Would sleeving the 4g63 be just as efficient as a non-sleeved 4g63 though?

 

Thanks for the info. I already build a 2.4 for my car. Just dropped it in last weekend. I was considering a spare engine or at least trying to salvage my stock block. The crank and rods were reuseable. I kept the 2.4 crank and reused the rods. Had to get new pistons. My old ones were melted.

 

I maybe making a 4G63 coffee table with my old block...

 

Well there you go case closed

What is a ballpark figure to sleeve a block? I get that you are looking to salvage your current block which is totally understandable but if it costs roughly the same as a replacement block then its hard to justify sleeving it.

 

Haha. John said it was 1500 to do the work. Plus its 400 for the darton sleeves. For another 1000 bucks I could buy an already built short block.

I was hoping it would be around 200 to press in the sleeves and have a useable block for 600 bucks. I only spent 200 on a 4G64 block plus the machine work.

 

Regular sleeve and bore and deck is about 120 a cylinder at my machine shop,
But as john said a regular sleeve wont work, must be something with the walls when meeting the sleeves?

 

They dont seal correctly. It was cool when my Grampa was alive and running his machine shop building claimer motors for circle track guys. 500bhp is 62.5hp per cylinder in a V8 and that holds up fine. Add boost and make something like 125-150bhp per cylinder and the game changes. I know a certain 570whp Volvo owner that didnt quite believe me until we found 2 rods hanging out of the block and the sleeve had been installed incorrectly (offset in the bore center and had .090" wall thickness. Not the best way to discover a problem. Nominal they are only 115 thou, not enough.

Do it right, buy a good block and dont run more than 0.040 over or switch it to a 4G64 block.

aaron