Actually just ordered some myself last month. Here ya go:

 

Thanks!

 

STM has a bolt kit for it.

 

Thanks!

I tried ARP SS bolts before, but it changes color dark after heat cycles, so now I stick to 8740 chro-moly instead for exhaust parts.

 

The cup washers are interesting. Has anyone broken any bolts by not using those washers?

 

I regret not shaving some of the casting off near the front bolts before getting mine coated. Because I cant get a socket onto those. Have to use a wrench but the rad is right there... Will prob have to make some shorter socket or something.

 

Good tip! I hope my short 12mm 12pt 1/2 dr socket fits fine.

 

how long ago did you buy your manifold? Has this been corrected on their casting mold?

 

No, Every one I've installed requires some clearancing for the nuts on the front of the turbo, as well as the top head flange nuts.

 

i found some copper nuts that use a 10mm hex for the head to manifold bolts. those should solve the clearance problem. i hope.

 

Good luck getting them back off after having been on a for a period of time. Copper will help, but 10mm is a small surface area for high tq.

 

Still no true back to back dyno on this product after 4 years???

 

I didn't back to back test it but its designed to be slightly larger then stock and it makes power. Even unported , I'm sure it played a role in the power I've made .
It also is less prone to cracking then a tubular manifold and preserves the cars sound. I think its a great choice for stock frame cars.

 

 

Nice job. Wouldnt this connection require some Anti-Seize?

The ARPs are likely super strong in tension but because they are a hard steel, when locked up in the exhaust mani, they fail in rotation?