I'm assuming that it comes with detailed instructions, but my questions are:

1: My understanding is that I'm supposed to cap the valve on the intake-manifold that used to be connected to the PCV valve (?). If so, is the valve shown in the "question 1" picture the correct valve to cap?

2: Since the basic filtered catch-can mounts to the bolt on the top-left side of the intake manifold, where is the solenoid thingy (circled in the 2nd pic) usually moved/mounted to? Or do people usually just move it out of the way and let it dangle next to the catch-can?


Any and all help is greatly appreciated, thanks!

 

the answer to #2 is that is the fuel pressure solenoid, and it is deleted when someone deletes their egr system in their car. ive never heard of anyone just unbolting it and mounting it somewhere else/ letting it dangle. i would say its not the smartest thing to do since the only thing holding it would be vacuum lines. i say just delete your egr and call it a day-

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-canister.html

and #1 - yes you do plug the part of the IM that connected to your PCV valve prior to deleting it if you choose so. or you can use it as some type of vacuum source i assume.

 

The catch can doesn't come with instructions. The detailed pictures we have on the website have proven more beneficial than instructions have.
Things are a little different because the car we have shown is indeed an AEM car, so the EGR and other sensors there have been deleted.

On a stock car, there still should be plenty of space to finagle the catch-can into place suitably - even easier if you delete the EGR.

As opposed to capping #1, we use that as a great boost/vacuum source - or you can cap it if your car is completely stock.

Thanks,
Zigg at STM

 

Thanks for the answers.

I've capped it since my car was already using a different source for the boost gauge.

I wasn't aware that I would need to potentially remove the EGR system to install the catch-can in that location. Perhaps I'll either mount it elsewhere...or study up on that posted "how-to".

For now it looks like the easiest thing might be to finagle the catch-can in their or mount it elsewhere.

Thanks for the help, fellas.

 

Fellas,

I searched & went through a bunch of related threads but couldn't get the answer to this question;

The fuel pressure solenoid (FPS):

If left connected to the wiring harness...but all nipples on it capped, would it still throw a check engine light? Would anything negative happen?

I would have the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator going to the small nipple on the intake manifold (as described in the EGR removal tutorial picture):

At the moment, I don't have the time, money, or capabilities to tune the ECU to disable the FPS entirely....or to remove the EGR system entirely.

I unplugged everything and installed the catch can...then I carefully rerouted & reconnected everything around the can.

As always, any and all help is greatly appreciated, thanks.

 

im not 100 percent on this because ive never done it, but to my understanding all the fpr solenoid does is stop vacuum prior to reaching the fpr during start up so the fuel pressure will be higher during cranking? i mean in theory you may have issues starting? like i said im not quite sure, there is only one way to find out! lol

if all else fails, just get some longer pieces of vacuum hose and zip tie that guy out of the way, that way its still connected to the system, just not on the side of the manifold. enabling you to be able to use your catch can!

but i would just wait and delete the entire egr system properly if it were me

 

You absolutely can leave the solenoid connected. You will only throw a CEL from removing the solenoid from the harness if you don't disable it. The solenoid itself doesn't do anything other than keep the regulator from seeing vacuum on start. You wouldn't even need to cap the nipples on the solenoid.

 

If my understanding is correct it would send incorrect signals to the ECU. The Fuel Pressure Solenoid is controlled by the ECU and EGR signals and will lean out the mix of fuel when cold outside to aid in warming the engine. If one removes the EGR, or goes to a standalone ECU it needs to be disabled. However, since this is still a stock ECU I would keep it connected since your AFRs will fluctuate otherwise.

I don't run the STM catch can but it seems like the can could be mounted in the original location on the bottom of the bracket on the Intake Manifold using the longer hex head screw they provide. Then rotated closer to the back of the engine so that the Fuel Pressure solenoid doesn't have to be disconnected from the IM.

 

The fuel pressure solenoid does NOT lean out the fuel mixture. The purpose of the solenoid was correctly stated earlier in the thread. The solenoid is either energized or not. It prevents the FPR from seeing vacuum under cranking conditions, then is bypassed. The solenoid itself doesn't send signals. It isn't a sensor. All a solenoid consists of is an electrically controlled valve. If it is doing it's function, which is opening and closing while plugged in, the ECU stays happy. Same thing happens when you take the vacuum lines off the OEM boost control solenoid to run a manual boost controller. You leave it connected, and it just clicks away, with the ECU thinking that the solenoid is still doing it's job.

The jist of my post is such...... You can leave the solenoid connected and leave the vacuum lines attached, or you can leave the solenoid connected and bypass it by running the FPR off the source nipple on the manifold. Either way won't adversely affect your motor. Happy boosting.

 

Awesome.

Appreciate the help, thanks.