So what's the final word on a fix?

My FP Black is leaking oil in a big way. I took off all my intercooler piping, intercooler and intake and the whole system was coated in oil, from the intake and J pipe to the final silicone bend into the intake mani. There's so much oil coming out of the turbo that it's coating the intake pipe back up to the filter and the bottom of the filter where it meets the suction pipe is wet with oil. I filled up my intercooler with water and clear degreaser, after taping up one side, swished the degreaser around and poured the liquid out into a bucket, the resulting stuff had so much oil in it that it looked like beer! There was a pool of oil in the lower coldside intercooler piping that I could pour out. No wonder I'm getting knock, with the amount of oil I'm drawing back into the engine. So how do I fix this. This is my plan

Take off the cam cover, remove the baffles and place two -10an fittings in it, replace the baffles. Run two -10an lines to a sealed media filled catch can with a third line running from it to the intake for suction.

Relocate the oil feed for the turbo from the filter housing to the oem location, keeping the 0.8mm oil restrictor. Is this safe, I've read it is (on this thread), any thoughts?

Should I also drill out my PCV valve and add a larger line? Is this needed with the other two 1/2" vents. Is there a -10an PCV valve available?

That's my plan. Will this fix my issue? Any thoughts?

 

First step is confirming what your issue is that's step one in troubleshooting, which it seems a lot of people want to skip and go right to the "throw parts at it" phase.

The turbo can leak for a number of causes see the link below for the most common reasons. The one reason we don't discuss in that article is that the turbo is hurt, it's possible to over speed the turbo or over heat the turbine side causing deformation of the gas control ring and allowing for out of spec axial play. This will cause damage to the compressor side piston ring and cause the issue that people are seeing.

http://forcedperformance.tumblr.com/...-is-coming-out


So step 1: Read the article and test the individual systems for any abnormalities.

Alternate Step 1: Send the turbo for us for inspection so that we can leak test it ourselves and either rule it out being your issue or fix it if it's damaged.

Step 2: Apply a fix based on the acquired data from step 1.

Step 3: Test your work.

We get that crankcase pressure is not and easy thing to test for or quantify in any way. We had to do quite a bit to get the data that we got through our testing. However at the end of the day there is no magic catch can solution that's going to be adequate for every single motor out there. Some cars have a little crankcase pressure, some have a lot, some have so much that no catch can setup will ever fix and will require work done to the motor.

We're here to help if we can.

-Michael

 

Also With excessive crankase pressure you might see blue puffs on gearchange on high boost. My turbo is brand New..

 

Michael @ FP : How did you go forward With collecting the data for the crank case pressure? If a engine suffers from alot of blow-by that should be detected in a engine leakdown test? A leaky engine downwards past the rings would cause alot of pressure in the crank case..

 

it may sound crazy, but I think my turbo is leaking less oil now that its broken in. It seems like there isn't as much anymore.

 

regarding the issue I had with puffs of smoke coming outta my car at wot, I checked the hotside of the turbo and the turbine wheel is bone dry. does this mean the seals are still good and not leaking and I just have a crank case pressure issue as I thought?

 

I got a chance to hook up my sealed catch can and drive the car and it resolved all of my issues with my ball bearing fp red. those of which caused the car to smoke on WOT and to leak oil into the compressor housing . not even a drop of oil in the housing now

 

Evo 9 fp black ball bearing turbos should be fed oil through the cylinder head feed location, says it rite on fp site!

 

It makes no difference where the oil comes from, the filter or the head. It makes no difference what crankcase pressure relief system you install. Don't waste your time, or money, trying to modify your motor to work with a FP BB turbo. The problem is with the turbo design, if they leak oil they will continue to leak oil no matter what you do. The only fix is to replace the turbo with another brand or to convert your BB to a JB, which is what I've done. Buying a FP BB turbo was the worst decision I've made in regards to modifying my Evo, and I'll suggest to anyone who will listen to avoid their products like the plague.

 

Youre joking right? When i bought mine they said to buy this extra line kit and specifically NOT run it from the head.

 

Not a joke.

http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...Lancer-TurboHW

They switched it.

 

Oh look another 200 dollar line to buy. how convenient!

So let me get this right. At first we had to run it from the filter housing bc their research showed pressures from the head were too high. also if we didnt use that specific location, it clearly stated warranty would be void. Now theyre saying filter housing pressures are too high and to run it from the head? What the hell.

My fp black although a leaky **** is still a fun turbo ill give them that. However, i will NEVER buy another. I just deal with this one leaking and clean my pipes every oil change. Bull**** yes but its not like theres anything that can be done at this point. Ive just learned to live with it and so far nothing catastrophic has happened.

End of the day, i feel like i was scammed out of 2500 bucks. I had an ebay turbo on my wrx that cost 400 bucks and it never gave me a problem. Thats a damn shame.

Oh.. i never thought this would happen to me either. I thought 2500 bucks and buying it brand new from such a renown company id be problem free. I mistaked their reputation; should have been interpitted as infamous.

 

This is how I plan to solve crankcase pressure, -10an Fitting right through the block


Hope it will be enough (but will ad additional 2 10an fittings on VC and to intake)

 

You don't have to run it from the head. The oil line for the ball bearing turbos simply has a restrictor in it. If you have the line from the oil filter housing, it should have a flow restrictor in it..


If your turbo is leaking you need to asses how much crank case pressure your car has, and fix it if it has too much. My brand new red leaked oil, so I put a -10an STM fitting in the pass/rear of the v/c, and the STM -6 fittings driver side of the v/c and in the balance shaft inspection port. The fitting on the back/pass side of the v/c has a check valve in the line and goes to catch can, then the intake manifold like the stock PCV. The fitting on the driver side goes to a catch can along with the -6 fitting from the bshaft inpection, this catch can then has a -8an line going to the turbo inlet pipe. That Solved my problem...

 

For my case, what if I just put on my -10an fitting K&N breather directly on the block?



I think it would permanently solve/eliminate crankcase pressure.

But also have on VC connected with sealed oil catch can and to turbo intake to create some suction/vacuum.