I'm going to second that. Crankcase pressure is known to be a problem with stock frame BB turbo's even on a stock ( tight ) engine. The stock system was designed for 300hp and will need to be changed for more power. If you have a built engine it will make the problem worse with larger tolerances and aftermarket pistons. I was aware of this before sending my money to FP. They build a fast spooling product that picks up where the stock turbo falls off. I've been happy with near stock spool and a turbo that doesn't fall off.


I have a -10 line in my valve cover to a sealed 11" long 2.75" catchcan going back into the intake tube. I also have the factory PCV system. I've never had any oil or anything in the can with the stock engine. My car has close to 90K and doesn't burn any oil or smoke . It makes 450whp on pump gas at 25psi and 500whp on 29psi/ E85 on a dynojet. I let it warm up but drive the wheels off it whenever I can.

I'm not a fan of VTA stuff on anything less then 700whp.

mberenis - What is your current crankcase system? -10 on the stock valve cover? What was your piston to wall clearance? Ring gap?

If all that is in spec then measure your crankcase pressure under power.

Read this if you haven't already.

https://www.facebook.com/notes/force...50986779889473


The only time I had an oil issue it was my own fault. I was running 20-50 for a track day and half a quart over to prevent possible starvation . This lead to smoking at idle because the oil wasn't draining into the pan because of the thick oil and high level. Swapped to lighter 10-40 and its fine.

 

Also guys make sure to use sealed catch cans, not breather style, im on SD and still dont use breather style.
AGP Makes an awesome oil accumulator specifically for evo 8 9 also make one specifically for 10.
Designed for pcv side but can be used on intake pipe side as well.
I get alot of goop out of those cans every month, works very very well.
I run one of the agp cans for evo 9 on both sides, feed from head and have zero oil leak issues.
Just my 2 cents...

 

I use a sealed catch can and two -10 fittings tapped into the cam cover with a -12 tapped into my intake pipe for suction. This did nothing for the oil leak from the turbo. Like I said, think twice before pouring good money into modding your car trying and stop your FP turbo from leaking oil. I tried all the bs remedies suggested by FP, and the suggestions of other EvoM members, all to no avail. I took my turbo to a local expert, who had seen more than a dozen leaking FP BB turbos come across his work bench, and he suggested that the only effective fix was a JB conversion (with second hand FP turbos being unsaleable in Australia due to the leaking issue) which is what we did. This cost me almost $1000, on top of the original $2500 turbo purchase price, on top of the $300 catch can price, but I finally had a turbo that actually worked, and it only cost me $4000, and many many hours of my life. Funny, FP still insist there's no issue with their original BB turbo design. That's a bad joke, and they're a bad company and bunch of crooks, imo!

 

Did you log crankcase pressure? If no, your point is moot.


You did not have a line routed to the intake manifold for PCV. When the throttle plate is closed on decel, their is not a lot of (basically zero) vacuum in the turbo intake pipe, but their is >10inhg of vacuum in the intake manifold. Even when at full boost, a proper sized intake pipe will only have <1-2inhg of vauum. Not taking advantage of the vacuum source from the intake manifold is likely why your turbo leaked. You only had viable crankcase ventilation when under power/heavy throttle. As soon as you lifted, the crank case pressure had nowhere to go except push its way through the turbo "seals"...

 

^^^^^ this 👍

 

You are totally incorrect. The reason my turbo leaks oil is because the turbos cartridge design is faulty. How do I know this. Because I put my turbo on device that's used to balance turbos. This machine spins the turbo with a fan, no crankcase, no crankcase pressure...at all. My turbo pissed oil out on this machine! How is this possible. Because the bearings in the cartridge act as a pump and force oil past the compressor bearing. My turbo was removed from this machine and immediately taken apart and no fault was found. Like I've said, your motor is not the issue, it is the turbos design that causes the oil leak is some, not all, FP BB turbos. Have a look at the current FP BB turbos cartridge design....see how it's a new design....notice how it's completely different from the original design....remember how they strangely remove the old design from sale....do you wonder about this? FP will never admit there was a problem with their original BB design, because they know it would cost them a fortune in replacement turbos. So they continue the line "it's your motor fault", whilst completely changing the turbo's design and removing the original one from sale. Strange that...but believe what you want, it will help you justify the money you spent on your turbo.

 

If you have a picture of your setup, that would be great

 

So you can see the two -10 lines coming off the cam cover, the hoses are a bit pinched as this was when I first installed them and some of the lengths needed adjusting. The top -10 also has some extra baffling installed in the OEM baffling to stop oil getting to the line. You can see the custom catch can, this has media installed between the two lines in, low on the can, and the suction line running to the intake, high on the can. This whole system has been tested to 30psi with the suction -12 line closed off. I also run a Saikou Michi catch can on the PCV between the valve and the intake mani.

 

Fireescape, I think you definitely have all your basis covered.
The design issues or changes are intriguing to say the least. Also, one other strange thing is how the keep changing where they want you to install the oil line. From head to oil filter housing and now back to the head.

I sold my green and one of the reasons was this issue. I went with BBK B BB and CBRD says they don't have any of the same issues. In fact they only put the 2 -6AN VC vents to my catch can which is VTA and say that will be adequate.

 

Thanks for all the input and help everyone. Im gonna turn this over to the guys at PRS. Theyre my local go to place for evo stuff. The owner mike has years and years of experience with evos starting with the original all the way up to the X. He will get to the bottom of this. Im buying another car for a dd, once i get that im gonna drop my evo off with him and get this solved for good. Ill report back my findings.

 

Your very welcome mberenis im glad i was able to let you and the community know they switched back to feeding from head.
Maybe give that a try in the meantime to see if it solves your issues, best of luck to you man!

 

The switch to the head has nothing to do with the issue that some people have seen with the turbo being forced to leak oil out the compressor. We used to build nothing but JB turbos and those required to be fed off the filter housing to supply oil. When we started offering the the BB units we already had a line built that only required a restrictor change to work so we changed the restrictor size and kept on keeping on. However the time came when we ran low on parts to make the lines we've been making for years and since we reached our re-order point we decided to build a dedicated off the head line for ease of installation.

If you have a off the filter housing line on your ball bearing turbo there is no reason to change it to the head location unless you're seeing over 100psi of pressure at the feed source. It will not fix your issue with the turbo being forced to leak.

Thanks,

- Michael

 

Ah! Thanks for clearing that up sir👍

 

yup, thanks for clarification Michael

 

Update on my setup. The STM -6 balance shaft inspection hole breather was filling my catch can with oil. I removed that, and now have all -10 from the "stock" locations on the valve cover. Passenger rear fitting is -10 through a check valve and catch can to the intake manifold. And the driver from fitting is -10 through a catch can to the intake pipe.

I may change the -10 PCV to come thing else, the car wants to idle to high because it flows to much. I think I'm going to cap the -10 fitting I welded to the manifold, and run that -10 line VTA, but tee the stock PCV valve into it so that it still sees vacuum. In EvoScan with the ISCV disabled, it will idle at 1k with the BISS almost closed. But no matter what I do, it seems like the ISCV just won't let it consistently idle at 1100 where I want it to.