My plan was to install a Spec Stage 3 clutch and Fidanza flywheel this weekend

-as of yet (3hrs into it) I've removed the upper acces over the tranny, the three top tranny bolts,- the starter, the crossmember, the upper dogbone (rear motor mount) bolt, the axles, and the center shaft (via a slide hammer from the driver's side).

Center Diff -
Here is where I am having a problem. I removed the 3 lower bolts from the center diff and the top two bolts. Using a pry bar - I cant get the center diff to pull free from the tranny. It moves maybe a 1/8" - thats it. Feels as if something is holding it in.
With the centershaft removed - what did I miss? There is another shaft on the passenger side (where the passenger axle attaches) do I remove that too?

Please help -

Thanks..

 

Here is a thread with a lot of info and pics concerning clutch replacement.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...threadid=63102

 

Hey - ok

Luckily I have a super cool Mitsu dealer up the road. I was able to hang out in the back and chat about the problem. They had a EVO engine and tranny out so we could check out the mounting points.

There are six bolts on the center diff - three top and three bottom. The top upper front bolt is nearly impossible to see. However, I know its there so I'll slide under the car once again.

BTW, I've had no luck in locating a clutch alighment tool (by itself). The tech gave me his.. what an awesome dealer!

 

It's the same as a Rx7 turbo and a 2.9 litre Ford Ranger 4x4. Just take the clutch to your local parts dealer and ask for those clutch tools and test fit them.

 

Good luck -

Napa, Pep Boys and Discount Auto Parts dont stock clutch alignment tools by themselves (at least in Atlanta).

You can buy a RX7 clutch kit (300 plus $$), use the tool and bring the kit back.

Thats why I was stoked to pick up this one. BTW, it has "ford" stamped on the handle. Even the tech knows..

 

Doh, yes, there are 6 bolts holding the transfer case on. Obviously you know that now. There are two on the top near the engine. They're close together and pretty far back in there. There is a third one farther back towards the driveshaft and not quite as "deep in" as the other two. That bolt is longer than the other two.

As far as removing the transmission from the engine, you said you already have the top bolts off. That's two up by the valve cover and one back down towards the transfer case. On the bottom there are two main bolts holding it together. One on the back by the transfer case and one up in front. There are also two bolts and two screws holding the little metal shield on down by the starter. Finally, there is one little screw holding the metal shield in the front, about halfway up the engine/tranny. It's also what the starter wiring harness is clipped into as it comes down the front of the engine/tranny.

If you can, I'd recommend taking off the front pitch stop mount from the tranny. That thing likes to hit on the radiator hose when you're moving the transmission around. It is also helpful if you can take out the whole rear dogbone, not just remove the bolt holding it to the tranny. The reason is that you're going to want to slide the tranny towards the driver's side of the car, and that dogbone gets right in the way of doing that. It's kind of hard to get to, though.

When you're dropping the tranny, the back section likes to get caught on the suspension crossmember. In particular there are some bolts in the side that will get caught on the crossmember as you lower the transmission down. So go slowly and make sure that it doesn't get hung up in the back.

 

hey man are you the one that dynoed before you went to florida last weekend

 

BTW, I picked up a universal metric clutch alignment tool from my local Pep Boys when I did the install. It was in the specialty tools section.

 

Damn iodine23, I could picture everything you were saying as you were describing what to do and look out for! Sure will be easier next time around, but I guess you already know that!

 

See - now this is why forums were created.

Your walkthru will prove to be extremely helpful, most notably when removing the tranny.

I'll go ahead and remove the front motor mount bracket along with the rear dog bone. I was able to break the lower dog bone bolt free - but skipped on the removal when I noticed the bracket isnt connected to the center diff - I believe it attaches to the K-member.

Is there a good spot to support the motor via a floor jack?


BTW - I used to live in Austin, near Round Rock. Nice city..cute bats.

 

Yep..

 

We supported the motor with the oil pan the first time, but I didn't really like it there since it was so close to the motor mount and the motor still managed to lean a lot. But that was also about the only place we could hit with a floor jack once everything was up that high in the air.

The 2nd time I did it I used an engine hoist. That made supporting the engine much easier.

You can kind of get to the dogbone nut coming in from the back over the crossmember, and you can get to the bolt coming up under the tranny. That requied me to use a wobble adapter on my impact wrench.

You still have to be a little careful with the trans hitting the radiator hose, even with the front mount removed, but it does make it a lot easier.

And be sure you pop the TO bearing off the pressure plate before you try to pull everything apart. We didn't the first time and my friend couldn't figure out why the thing wouldn't come apart. I kept saying it was the TO bearing, and sure enough it was.

 

FYI the center diff is in the tranny while the front diff is located in the transfer case that you had trouble removing. The alignment tool is a Ford-20.

 

Ok - I'll snap together a u-brace with three pieces of wood to cradle the oil pan (supported by the floor jack). Hopefully the weight will be better distributed.
Thanks for the tip.

That was the first thing I did! After I released the clutch fork from the slave, I popped open the access hole and used a long screwdriver to unsnap the T/O from the PP.

Thanks!! I'm feeling pretty good about the install.