The point has been pointed out already, the success rate of the engine builds vs. ONE time of doing this new crap=failure.

Do what you like, **** that diagram.

 

That is kind of like saying...

I always build motors while wearing my lucky red shoes. Damnit for wearing my blue shoes when I built this motor and now the thrust bearing is damaged. I want to warn the entire EVO community that if you build a motor while wearing blue shoes your motor will fail.

 

Yea, one instance of failure, and no data logs of oil pressure to confirm deleting the tstat caused the failure. One failure out of one build is no reason to not test it in another motor. And then actually verify oil pressure at a few points in the system, instead of throwing it together and seeing what happens..

 

good for you David. there is no rational for blaming removing the thermostat as the cause of this failure. just makes you look dumb really.

 

You call him out for no data logs. But I have yet to see anyone post any data logs with this mod either. Looked through the entire thread and just theories. No proven facts yet. Can anyone do a stock vs after modded for us to compare?

 

It's not theory, if you've ever held the filter housing in your hand its pretty easy to that removing the tstat and plugging the cooler in/out would not cause issues..

 

Let me get this all straight.......

Someone starts a thread calling myself and some other big shops crooks for selling just oil cooler delete plugs. THOUSANDS of EVO engines using these, no related failures.

In 13 years of building just the EVO 4g63's I've seen less than 3 (hell and can only remember one) thrust bearing failure and can't remember the last time I had ANY issue with one of the engines we've built.

I do this mod that is recommended and instantly wipe out a thrust bearing/block and crank......hmmm.......

Must be my work boots.

 

Obviously by doing this mod it did not wipe out the engine but neither would leaving the Thermostat in place.

I ran 30k with no oil cooler and the Thermostat in place. I have since removed it for an actual plug not a cut off spring (which really does the same thing)

Nobody hear has posted 1 failure with having the Oil Cooler Deleted and the Thermostat left in place. It is all just speculation and theory

 

We are all ears on how you think more oil being supplied to the main galley would cause this.

But any idiot with an oil-filter housing available can validate that diagram. The oil flow path without the thermostat in is EXACTLY the same path it would take on a cold motor with it in place.

 

read post #5. its why I started this thread. sure there was no failure because the low oil pressure condition was caught before the engine was boosted hard. these were actual measured low oil pressure numbers. not a theory.

I would have expected venders to add to their listings that the plugs should not be used with tomie and the like thermo eliminators. because you absolutely will kill your engine with that combo.

the argument there is no danger running plugs with factory thermo in place can be proven. whats needed is two oil pressure logs, one at the pump and one on the block. and a good oil temp gauge. get the oil to full op temp and see what the oil pressures are. must be done with a factory NEW thermostat. because thermos with over 50k miles are useless and dont open. they dont pose a threat.

to anyone who thinks removing the thermostat can cause an engine failure you have a screw loose in your head. its simply not possible. to anyone who wants to argue that point you wont get an an argument from me. I dont argue with stupid. if you want to be stupid have at it.

 

No, it was blue shoes

 

It is surprising to me that no one has brought up that a possible explanation in to why one motor would fail and one motor would not doing the delete may be as simple as the condition of the Oil Thermostat itself.

The Oil Thermostat is just a couple of mettle springs in it's simplest form right? Heat and pressure will cause the spring to weaken that is a fact. If the Thermostat is weaken already doing the delete will still allow some flow due to week spring pressure or it not extending all the way to make a seal. But if it is a good working Thermostat if everything is working correctly yes it will for sure block oil.


I propose this. If you really want to say there is nothing wrong with these deletes Do some R and D. Find a car with one installed that has some miles on it. Test the oil pressure.

Then install a brand new OE Oil Thermostat. Test the Oil pressure.

Then delete the Thermostat. Making sure to clean it if you deside to do the hack saw method. And test the Oil Pressure.


When i say test i mean pull number from the oil filter housing, back of the block, and 2 spots on the head. Same oil, same operation temp, same day....


This is how you find your answer...


O ya i am not going to lie i have had 2 motors fail with in 5k miles, Both oil starved both had deletes. And i believe not pulling the thermostat was the cause. But i never did the test. Not saying any one is wrong or right but it would be nice is a shop documented a test and let us all know.


Scrolled up and read 94AWDcoupe post lol. Guess some one did state it.... :-)

 

Side Note:

The Oil Pressure Bypass, i wonder what roll it plays in all of this..

 

For a given flow, pressure at the bypass in the housing should be lower since there is less restriction before oil makes it to the main galley.

 

I see what you're getting at and agree with you on where the holes go on the housing but I was mainly talking about oil pressure being a theory. Someone said they did some oil pressure testing but it seems like it was with a Tomei delete.

I do have my housing in hand and have checked were each hole went with a fish line. It's similar to the diagram that was posted up already.

Do you know how the oil thermostat works? I don't think it weakens the springs but if you take one apart, you'll see on the bottom of the shaft, a plunger comes out and pushes against the cap when heated up. The bottom spring just helps it collapse back in when temps are normal. I heated this one up with MAPP gas and was able to extend it all the way out (until the plunger fell out). Of course, not really a good way to test and measure how far it comes out since the hotter it got, the more it extended (probably heated it to 500+F). Would have to throw it in boiling water at exact temps like 220F or something for a more accurate test.


As to why the motor failed, I don't know. Could just be a coincidence like an oil hole was clogged prior to assembly or whatever. A little hard to believe that deleting the thermostat and plugging it up would be the main cause of failure.

But of course, I also don't believe there is a need to delete it. I, personally, don't think any of the springs bottom out so the measurements that were taken are partially incorrect. If you plug the oil cooler holes, all the pressure would just push the top spring down and oil will still flow through. Kind of like a failsafe. Of course, if your oil temp reaches 500+F (point where the plunger is fully extended), pretty sure the motor is already done. This is all theory so don't take my word for it.