the amazing oil cooler delete kits
local here had good data on an eclipse for eliminating oil cooler. 190 temp with cooler on the interstate one hour drive. same trip 230 without cooler. this was an eclipse and the oil cooler is half the size of an evo. I use the evo oil cooler cause its the biggest best I found. I have half radiator and half condenser honda style. a/c blows ice cold in florida. never overheats. dont think this would be possible without a large oil cooler supplementing the half radiator.
-pal215
just read through all of the 12 pages, very interesting thread, but I am never deleting my cooler so im glad I wont loose sleep over this lol. which makes me wonder though, since older oil thermos get stuck and do not work as well as they do when they are new, will a new OEM oil thermo be a good idea on a built street car that retains the cooler?
Very good debate, as I stated in another thread you kinda have to pick your own poison, whatever works for you.
Thank you for this special presentation, you may now return to your regular channel
Thank you for this special presentation, you may now return to your regular channel
just read through all of the 12 pages, very interesting thread, but I am never deleting my cooler so im glad I wont loose sleep over this lol. which makes me wonder though, since older oil thermos get stuck and do not work as well as they do when they are new, will a new OEM oil thermo be a good idea on a built street car that retains the cooler?

I'm coming up on the second timing belt change probably next summer or fall. Anyway, it can't be too many years until Mitsubishi parts start becoming unavailable. So, I plan on spending some money at belt time replacing odd ball parts and the oil thermostat is one of them.
When the oil tsat is open, it allows oil to bypass both the cooler, AND the filter
your putting a curve where there isnt one. no surprise there.


Last edited by 94AWDcoupe; Jun 16, 2017 at 02:22 PM.
Derp. Nevermind. Delete the thermostat if you're plugging ports.
Wasn't looking at the housing with a light initially. Though two ports when different directions than they actually go.
Oil goes into the filter first, then it it can bypass if the tstat is open or be forced through only the cooler if the tstat is closed.
I was wondering why I would've been wrong over a year ago.
Sorry Jerry. Earth is still round though.
Wasn't looking at the housing with a light initially. Though two ports when different directions than they actually go.
Oil goes into the filter first, then it it can bypass if the tstat is open or be forced through only the cooler if the tstat is closed.
I was wondering why I would've been wrong over a year ago.
Sorry Jerry. Earth is still round though.
Just want to add to this thread regarding the thermostat bypass since I have it all apart. I will remeasure the spring force when my new thermostat arrives as the below force is based on a used thermostat so it could be slightly higher spring pressure.
Diameter of the sealing washer is 0.568" so it has an area of 0.25sq-in
Force to compress the spring is 3.375lbs
Pressure to open the oil thermostat valve is 3.375lbs/0.25sq-in = 13.5psi
Diameter of the sealing washer is 0.568" so it has an area of 0.25sq-in
Force to compress the spring is 3.375lbs
Pressure to open the oil thermostat valve is 3.375lbs/0.25sq-in = 13.5psi








