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the amazing oil cooler delete kits

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Old Aug 15, 2016 | 01:43 PM
  #166  
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Originally Posted by 94AWDcoupe
local here had good data on an eclipse for eliminating oil cooler. 190 temp with cooler on the interstate one hour drive. same trip 230 without cooler. this was an eclipse and the oil cooler is half the size of an evo. I use the evo oil cooler cause its the biggest best I found. I have half radiator and half condenser honda style. a/c blows ice cold in florida. never overheats. dont think this would be possible without a large oil cooler supplementing the half radiator.
And that's enough proof for me right there to keep it forever

-pal215
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Old Aug 15, 2016 | 04:49 PM
  #167  
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Well plug for stat was leaking so i removed spring and plunger from stock one. Hopefully no leaky leaky
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Old Aug 15, 2016 | 08:02 PM
  #168  
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Ok plug just needed crush washer. Whoops lol
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Old Aug 28, 2016 | 01:42 AM
  #169  
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just read through all of the 12 pages, very interesting thread, but I am never deleting my cooler so im glad I wont loose sleep over this lol. which makes me wonder though, since older oil thermos get stuck and do not work as well as they do when they are new, will a new OEM oil thermo be a good idea on a built street car that retains the cooler?
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Old Jan 21, 2017 | 09:49 AM
  #170  
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Very good debate, as I stated in another thread you kinda have to pick your own poison, whatever works for you.
Thank you for this special presentation, you may now return to your regular channel
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Old Jan 21, 2017 | 11:19 AM
  #171  
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Originally Posted by roni4g63
just read through all of the 12 pages, very interesting thread, but I am never deleting my cooler so im glad I wont loose sleep over this lol. which makes me wonder though, since older oil thermos get stuck and do not work as well as they do when they are new, will a new OEM oil thermo be a good idea on a built street car that retains the cooler?
My Evo has been my possession 13 years this month but the build date is April 2003. So, depending on which date you go by the car is 13 or 14 years old. Grandpa Evo shows how far these cars can go if maintained.

I'm coming up on the second timing belt change probably next summer or fall. Anyway, it can't be too many years until Mitsubishi parts start becoming unavailable. So, I plan on spending some money at belt time replacing odd ball parts and the oil thermostat is one of them.
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 07:22 AM
  #172  
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I deleted my oil cooler in my last build 6 months ago and no issues at all. The oil pressure its nice and higher than before.
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Old Jun 16, 2017 | 12:32 PM
  #173  
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Derp. Nevermind. Delete the thermostat if you're plugging ports

Last edited by letsgetthisdone; Jun 16, 2017 at 08:30 PM.
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Old Jun 16, 2017 | 01:30 PM
  #174  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone

Moral of the story; ignore the flat earther OP.
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Old Jun 16, 2017 | 02:13 PM
  #175  
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When the oil tsat is open, it allows oil to bypass both the cooler, AND the filter
you are complete idiot. all oil always goes through filter. it has direct path from pump. the tstat only blocks flow to cooler when cold.

your putting a curve where there isnt one. no surprise there.

Last edited by 94AWDcoupe; Jun 16, 2017 at 02:22 PM.
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Old Jun 16, 2017 | 02:50 PM
  #176  
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Derp. Nevermind. Delete the thermostat if you're plugging ports

Last edited by letsgetthisdone; Jun 16, 2017 at 08:30 PM.
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Old Jun 16, 2017 | 03:27 PM
  #177  
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Derp. Nevermind. Delete the thermostat if you're plugging ports

Last edited by letsgetthisdone; Jun 16, 2017 at 08:31 PM.
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Old Jun 16, 2017 | 05:10 PM
  #178  
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in for end result
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Old Jun 16, 2017 | 08:33 PM
  #179  
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Derp. Nevermind. Delete the thermostat if you're plugging ports.

Wasn't looking at the housing with a light initially. Though two ports when different directions than they actually go.

Oil goes into the filter first, then it it can bypass if the tstat is open or be forced through only the cooler if the tstat is closed.

I was wondering why I would've been wrong over a year ago.

Sorry Jerry. Earth is still round though.
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Old Jul 6, 2020 | 08:43 AM
  #180  
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Just want to add to this thread regarding the thermostat bypass since I have it all apart. I will remeasure the spring force when my new thermostat arrives as the below force is based on a used thermostat so it could be slightly higher spring pressure.

Diameter of the sealing washer is 0.568" so it has an area of 0.25sq-in
Force to compress the spring is 3.375lbs

Pressure to open the oil thermostat valve is 3.375lbs/0.25sq-in = 13.5psi
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