I spent some time researching oils before I finished this setup because I wanted to know how I was going to break in this engine and what oil to run post break in. This is a long read, but a good one.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/

Break In
I was not convinced that a "break in" oil was good as it actually promotes engine wear because it has poor wear resistance under load. I guess some people think promoting wear during break in is good, but we have roller rockers so were just talking about the rings. In the case of most of the newer sports cars (including the GTR,) they are running synthetic from mile 0 and having no issues. I chose SuperTech 10W-30 from Walmart for the first startup until the car got to temp and then drained. I then went with Valvoline VR1 10W-30 Conventional because it has very good wear resistance under load and non synthetic.

Post Break In
The EVO has historically high oil pressure when cold so I don't need a higher viscosity oil and a 0W will flow faster and allow the oil to get to the bearings quicker vs a 10w or 20w. The Mobile 1 OW-40 (FS) has a very high rating for wear protection under load and is also readily available at Walmart and $25 per 5 quarts. This is also the same oil that is run from the factory in the GTR and many Porsche, Mercedes, etc.

 

DynoJet appointment tomorrow at 2pm.

 

Your threads have always been one of the best ones on this forum. Can't wait for the dyno results

 

 

I'm also a fan of thinner oil with a strong Viscosity rating at 100'C I've used a Rotella Syn 5-40 for years and Brad penn 10-40. I would recommend the Penn over the rotella for oil temps over 225*F. There are alot of great choices for oil and if people are getting excess wear on the bearings I would look closer at whats being hard on them.
http://www.purseroil.com/wp-content/...llaT65W-40.pdf
https://www.amref.com/Media/Files/bp...HP_Oils_PB.pdf



You don't waste any time Sir!

Are you going to use low smoothing on the dyno to show how its running? What fuel are you using?

A dyno is a great tool for seeing how well the car is running or what the gains are with timing/boost. Do you also read the plugs?

 

I was looking at the oil pressure at cold start this morning and it was ~60psi (1500rpm) idle and when it warms it drops to ~19psi (1000rpm). Some GTR guys say the "RLI 5W-40 Bio-Syn Low Ash formula" provides better wear protection vs the 0W-40 "FS" oil based on oil analysis of the two.

As far as the dyno, I'm just going to post the results based on whatever the standard smoothing is, which as of last time was 5. Don't really care to read the plugs on the dyno because that is a lot of work. I pulled them last week to gap them down since I was getting a slight misfire at ~35psi and they looked great with no peppering on the porcelain and no signs of detonation. I'm going to put ~3 gallons on 110L in the tank mixed with ~1/2 tank of current Shell 93 before hitting the dyno. I won't touch the tune (no ignition timing changes) or the boost controller other than to adjust AFR to make sure it is hitting 11.5:1. Dyno fans can only simulate ~12mph of airflow so I don't like just running straight pump gas on the dyno.

Ran the car last night (93pump) to make sure all is good with AFR and boost so the result today will be indicative of what I run daily on the street using Shell 93 pump.

 

I was only suggesting a low smoothing rate on the dyno to see how clean the engine is running. Its useful to see where the engine may need less/more timing/fuel/boost. Going off your last engine lasting 80K miles you've got it in the ballpark. It would just be interesting data for the discussion.

A "dirty" run at smoothing 1 will look fine at 5.

 

Turbolab can make a Gtx3582 hybrid turbo with Holset 67 turbine wheel+1.15ts turbine housing (Garrett, I guess). Would it fit there? You would have more exhaust flow there.

 

 

 

Just for you....

 

Nice !

 

Thanks!

What is weird is the car usually makes 33-34psi on the street with IDC ~97%. On the dyno I made 556hp@31.5psi and IDC was 99.7%. I ordered FIC1650's today so I will eliminate that issue, but still trying to determine what turbo I will go to next

Considering the following in T4 TS configuration:

• Gen II GTX3582r (6662) (can use current manifold and turbine housing) - Estimating +30-40hp same boost
• GTX3584rs (6762) (can use current manifold and turbine housing) - Estimating +50-60hp same boost
• S362 SXE (6268) (preferred, but have to fabricate new manifold and downpipe) - Estimating +100hp same boost
• PTE Gen II 6266 (can probably use current manifold, but new turbine housing requires new downpipe) - Estimating +75hp same boost

Suggestions and advice welcome.

 

 

I feel you're right regarding this being the likely best selection, but that dang turbo is gonna be tricky to package because the compressor housing is huge. I have data from an EVO 8 running the older S362FMW (6268) with 1.00a/r T4TS and it crushes my current setup on the topend with spool ~750rpm after mine. However, with me being 2.15L vs 2L, ported stock intake vs AMS intake, MIVEC vs no MIVEC...I think this won't lag too much more, if any, vs my current turbo.

YOU'RE Killin' me. What I need to do is just order the damn thing and force myself to make the manifold.