Man sucks about the act tob...I wonder if act has revised their tob's? The previous owner of my evo according to the receipts from 2016 replaced the clutch at the dealership with an act kit and a act lightened flywheel (which I heard aren't good for our evo's). I don't really want to pull the transmission just to swap the tob with an oem but I guess it gives me a good excuse to also replace the flywheel with an oem one

 

For me it was good it happened because I am now replacing the clutch disk. I am not aware that it causes failure of anything other than your TOB so you may just want to let it ride until your next clutch change and if it pops then have it towed and fixed. I had the ACT TOB installed for ~ 2 years before it failed so perhaps make your decision accordingly.

 

The new ACT 6 Puck Sprung disk was installed today and I got the tranny and transfer case installed as well. Prior to putting on the sub frame I decided pull the front timing cover to make sure there were no small leaks and everything looked great. I also decided to remove the MIVEC gear because I want to do the English Racing modification so I can get more intake cam timing. In stock form you should be able to run ~28deg, but I don't see more than 26deg despite targeting 28. On the GTR I run 32-34 deg so I want to see if running more intake cam timing will get the turbo up quicker.

Getting the bolts out was not an easy job and I ended up having to weld a bolt to one of the torx bolts to get it out. I'll just have to get some new bolts from Lowe's tomorrow.




I'll probably stick with 6-7deg additional over what I have and see what happens. Should have it done and back together tomorrow.

 

Mod is done and everything is back together on the timing belt side. Prior to putting back the subframe I may upgrade the side mounts or go with new OEM mounts. I feel the trans untorque between shifts so I need to address this while I have access.

 

Making progress....turbine housing has been cut down on the lathe and the 3" vband flange is being attached and likely already welded, but I don't have any updated pics. It will be welded on the inside so the outlet can be made as short as possible to clear the AC compressor with the downpipe. I should have the small runner collector finished next week as well so I can start the new header.




I don't have the updated pic, but the vband is actually closer than this as MPFAB machined down the vband flange for a closer fit.

 

Looking good man! The only aftermarket motor mount I have is the Blox front trans/engine roll stopper. I plan to use the following thread when modifying my mivec gear in the future. Are these the steps you used?

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-cam-gear.html

 

That link is the one I used as the basis for the modification. My only comment would be that you need to make sure you don't grind off too much material from the stop tab. If you do the MIVEC will be stopped by the small lip on the cover of the MIVEC, which may cause damage to the cover and send crap through your motor. If you look at the picture below I have circled the small lip in red that also limits the MIVEC travel. If you machined those small lips with an end mill and completely removed the stop tab it allows for another ~10deg of rotation according to ER.




Regarding the motor mount, I ended up ordering the Megan Rear mount which is a 70 durometer mount as my stock one feels very mushy. I know folks say don't do the rear, but the few reviews I found said it was not bad at all.

 

Getting closer!

 

 

Hell yes, looking good!!

 

Finally, I can get the sub frame back into the car!

 

Collector is done and will arrive Tuesday along with the turbine housing. I hope to start the new header on the 22nd of this month.

 

Any updates on this?

love reading through your threads!

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...l-project.html