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Very clean progress. Has a crank case pressure solution already been found? I fear that the rear outlet to filter may not be enough.
the old motor was fine with just the single -10 port based on my pressure measurements. Running to the turbo inlet provided minimal benefit vs vta so I’m likely going to run a can vta because I don’t like the oil vapor getting sucked into the turbo inlet.
Thats great progress. Looks like you built a stoker 94mm engine. You will love the way it drives over an 88mm engine. A 94mm engine will still go to 9200-9400 which is plenty for most peoples goals,clutch and transmission. What I'm saying is the bigger crank is a solid move for a street car IMO. It does come with increased harmonics though.
I would highly recommend going to an ATI dampner since you are so far from what the stock balancer was designed to do (88mm,stock internals, rev limit etc.) Its a good move for keeping things under control.
Did your old engine have the OEM BSE delete or did you have the gsc/magnus delete shaft? Just curious on how the oil pump held up over time. Seems like everyone is split between the two methods.
Also, It looks like you have the Gen 1 GTX3582R? Thats a really nice street car setup. Stroker, mivec and that turbo will light up really well. Are you familiar with these results? A responsive and large powerband.
Thats great progress. Looks like you built a stoker 94mm engine. You will love the way it drives over an 88mm engine. A 94mm engine will still go to 9200-9400 which is plenty for most peoples goals,clutch and transmission. What I'm saying is the bigger crank is a solid move for a street car IMO. It does come with increased harmonics though.
I would highly recommend going to an ATI dampner since you are so far from what the stock balancer was designed to do (88mm,stock internals, rev limit etc.) Its a good move for keeping things under control.
Did your old engine have the OEM BSE delete or did you have the gsc/magnus delete shaft? Just curious on how the oil pump held up over time. Seems like everyone is split between the two methods.
Also, It looks like you have the Gen 1 GTX3582R? Thats a really nice street car setup. Stroker, mivec and that turbo will light up really well. Are you familiar with these results? A responsive and large powerband.
I didn't run a damper on the 2L and used the Unorthodox Racing aluminum pulley for ~70K miles with no issues. Therefore, not saying your recommendation is not warranted, but likely just gonna stay with the stock damper for now.
My oil pump doesn't use any of those delete kits. The shaft coming out of the pump is just cut off and the center is tapped and plugged. When I rebuilt the motor this time (yes, 94mm crank) I disassembled the pump to inspect the gears and they looked fine with no wear so I just slapped the pump on the new motor after a thorough cleaning. I still have the OEM stock pump with ~55K miles that I will just keep since you can't get them anymore so I am told.
So the car is now running and fired up with no issues and no strange noises. I primed the engine on the stand with my impact driver until the oil was pouring out of the lifters for 10-15 seconds so I didn't even hear the normal racket from the lifter pumping up. Also, I reused the old MIVEC gear so the noise that I thought was MIVEC related was actually the timing belt tensioner having taken a dump.
I ran the car for about 5-7 minutes until it got up to temperature and then shut it down and drained the oil. The initial startup oil was just Walmart brand 10W-30 and I swapped it for Valvoline VR1 10W-30 conventional, which I will run for ~100miles and then replace with the same. After about 500 miles I will swap to Mobile 1 0W-40 "European" synthetic, which is the same oil I use in the GTR.
Anyway, if all goes as planned I should have this thing on the dyno in February.
It does eventually, but my concern is that the oil could pool in the baffle before its full enough to drain out. I would consider removing the baffle if you're only going to use that hole for return from the oil pressure regulator.
It does eventually, but my concern is that the oil could pool in the baffle before its full enough to drain out. I would consider removing the baffle if you're only going to use that hole for return from the oil pressure regulator.
I'll likely pop the rivets with a chisel prior to turning up the boost. I debated removing it, but saw two weep holes so didn't think much of it. Based on pics the front is separate from the back so only concern is the rate it drains from the front baffle.
I've got almost 90 miles on the motor and all is well. Car feels good and I'll start tuning the highway stuff and off boost this weekend once I put ~150 miles on the engine. I had a chance to add the breather can today that I got for $60 off Amazon and really a nice piece for the price and internally baffled.
Awesome. I love seeing how quick you get **** done.
Thanks, there is a lot I can do with aluminum angle, my TIG welder, and a can of black wrinkle spray paint! Only took ~20min to fab the bracket not including priming, painting, and then curing the wrinkle paint, which takes about 2hrs total. I hit 100 miles today so i'm gonna change the oil soon and start running the car at wastegate pressure, which is ~24psi.
I got my 3.5" 100 cell CAT yesterday so I think I'm gonna cut off the current Magnaflow muffler and move it under the car with the CAT, if it will fit, and then add in the 3.5" Varex muffler that arrived last week.
Jan 27, 2019, 12:21 AM
