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I was able to tuck the exhaust up higher this morning by cutting the pipe at a strategic point and then slightly rotating the front section. Because the back of the exhaust is connected to the bellow I was then able to raise slightly and secure to the correct height with some wood. I then added a little wedge piece because the pipes didn't align and then welded it back together. The portion circled in yellow is where I cut and added the wedge.
The area circled in red is the portion of the pipe I was trying to raise and it is now higher than where the pipe crosses under the sway bar. Next step is to mount the muffler, man this thing is big.
I am just about done and I only need to add one last mounting point towards the front of the muffler and I am finished. I will likely run a wire wheel over the hole exhaust because I like how shiny it is in the areas I prepped for welding. Besides, it matches my shiny new muffler. Although I don't have the Varex muffler wired up I went ahead and started it because the valve is in the closed position. All I can sway is....WOW! The car is so damn quiet after adding the CAT and Varex muffler and my 15yo son's jaw hit the floor because of how quiet it was. Can't wait to open the valve and see how loud it is in comparison.
@240Z TwinTurbo Wow, this is good to know. I was thinking of getting the oval varex muffler because I thought the canister would be too loud but looks like I'm wrong. Thanks for sharing.
@240Z TwinTurbo Wow, this is good to know. I was thinking of getting the oval varex muffler because I thought the canister would be too loud but looks like I'm wrong. Thanks for sharing.
No problem and keep in mind I also run their 100cell cat, but the majority of the work is the muffler. Even though I run a straight 3.5" exhaust I am impressed with how quiet this thing is and even my wife (who hates this car) was impressed. She actually sanctioned me spending $450 from our bank account to add this to the system. Haha, I normally have to pay for EVO mods with my own cash!
The hard fabrication of the new exhaust system is finished so the only thing remaining is to wire up the valve control. I plugged it in a ran the cord outside the car to the cigarette lighter and proceeded to power up the controller only to find out that both batteries supplied for the remotes are dead. WTH! Nobody carries 27A batteries so had to order some off Amazon and they won't arrive until Friday.
All I can say is the car sounds quieter than stock and believe me when I say i am not exaggerating. I took it to my buddy's shop and he was floored with how it sounds slightly more aggressive than my wife's Honda minivan. I can tell you that it SEVERELY restricts the exhaust with the valve closed and the car struggles to make 15psi of boost so with the good comes the bad. Not to worry, I can open the valve and get back to where I need to be on Friday.
I also ran an abrasive wheel over the entire exhaust to give it some shine. Not perfect, but knocked off all the oxidation that was on the 321ss since I purchased it a few years back.
The motor has about 225 miles thus far so I decided to do some tuning under boost in the 27psi range just to start loading the motor and getting it somewhat ready for full boost. I want to beat my head against the wall because I am trying to sort out all the scaling issues with my Omni 4 bar, "SD MAP Sensor VE and Calibration" table load (kpa) scaling, and LoadMUT2Byte scaling prior to extending significant calories tuning. BTW, I am using 2D SD.
A few issues I am having are as follows:
- I set the boost gauge to alarm if I exceed 30psi. Alarm is going off during the entire pull indicating 30+psi of boost, but log shows 26-27psi. With the Haltech and the same Omni 4 bar I always had 1:1 correlation with my boost gauge and I setup the Omni 4 Bar per the correct formulas.
- LoadMUT2Byte is saying I am at a load of 280, but ignition timing values are being pulled from a load of 300
Anyway, I reached out to the GOD of ECU Flash, mrfred, so hopefully he can help to solve my incompetence and get me on the right track. I've spent about 20hrs reading the dang forums to make sure I am setting this up correctly, but I am clearly overlooking or not understanding this.
I posted the graph below from a 3rd gear pull I did last night as a baseline. I have since corrected the "SD RPM VE" values at 4500rpm and above to correct to 11.5:1, but have not yet done another log to verify it is 100% dialed in. You can see the timing is fairly conservative at -1deg ramped up to 5deg. On my 2L I was 1deg ramped to 8deg at 33psi so I definitely have a way to go. However, I want to get this scaling stuff resolved before I do too much more.
BTW, if you look at post 12 of this thread I was getting "20.2psi @ 4079rpm" on my 2L so even in a non optimized condition I am currently seeing ~20psi @ ~3870 so already a 200rpm improvement in spool even with the CAT.
Last edited by 240Z TwinTurbo; Feb 8, 2019 at 10:39 AM.
I set the boost gauge to alarm if I exceed 30psi. Alarm is going off during the entire pull indicating 30+psi of boost, but log shows 26-27psi. With the Haltech and the same Omni 4 bar I always had 1:1 correlation with my boost gauge and I setup the Omni 4 Bar per the correct formulas.
It's hard to find a perfect formula that works for scaling the Omni 4 bar perfectly across all vacuum and boost readings for accuracy, but if you're certain it's correct, the boost gauge might be just reading high. Although 3psi is a large degree of error for any gauge to have. I think my Defi read 1 psi lower than actual.
It's hard to find a perfect formula that works for scaling the Omni 4 bar perfectly across all vacuum and boost readings for accuracy, but if you're certain it's correct, the boost gauge might be just reading high. Although 3psi is a large degree of error for any gauge to have. I think my Defi read 1 psi lower than actual.
I had good correlation using the same Omni 4 Bar and boost gauge when reading with the Haltech so that is one thing that leads me to believe it is a scaling issue. The other is the ECU is referencing ignition timing values from the load associated with 300 & 320, but it is logging that I have a load of 280. So gauge is reading higher than log (30+psi vs 27psi) and the ECU is referencing timing values at load values higher than log (300load vs 280load).
If you look at the High Octane Fuel map below it is actually strange because based on the data log shown in the previous post I am running 5deg @ 7500rpm, which corresponds to a load of 320, but the values below 7500 seem to corresponds to values for loads of 300.
Last edited by 240Z TwinTurbo; Feb 8, 2019 at 10:59 AM.
I know this is one of those "dumb" questions, but did you adjust the Evoscan formula so the MAP sensor reads 0psi with key on, engine off? I know I occasionally forget to do this, and if the weather is very different from the last time I was did any tuning/logging, or I'm in a different location, or I have the base formula with 14.7 in, it can be 2-3psi off.
I know this is one of those "dumb" questions, but did you adjust the Evoscan formula so the MAP sensor reads 0psi with key on, engine off? I know I occasionally forget to do this, and if the weather is very different from the last time I was did any tuning/logging, or I'm in a different location, or I have the base formula with 14.7 in, it can be 2-3psi off.
Using (0.2369*x-14.3) for Charlotte, NC and get -0.086psi car off referencing baro.
PM me otherwise and will get you in touch with someone smarter than me.
There might be something to your reference, but I am on V5 for 2D SD so I don't have those referenced scalings. There is one table within the "Speed Density Tuning" section called "MAP Sensor kpa," which I have been unable to find anything about. It references a "MAP Sensor kpa" scaling that does not use an Omni 4 Bar equation. Gonna wait and see what mrfred says first.
Exhaust looks good Sir. You've got some fab skills!
Why did you move from the haltech to stock ecu? State inspections? It would be hard for me personally to go back to stock ecu stuff from a standalone. Nothing wrong with the stock ecu, Its just got its limits on functionality.
Exhaust looks good Sir. You've got some fab skills!
Why did you move from the haltech to stock ecu? State inspections? It would be hard for me personally to go back to stock ecu stuff from a standalone. Nothing wrong with the stock ecu, Its just got its limits on functionality.
Thanks for the kind words.
I would say in the early 2000's my actual skills were much better because I was fabricating on the side almost weekly. You tend to lose some of the welding skills in terms of making everything look beautiful and back then I was super **** about prepping welds, using the correct rod and rod size. Ha, I think I used 3/32" 308 or 309 when I welded the 321ss pipes a few days ago should that have been 1/32" 347 rod?
Partially due to inspection and partially due to considering selling the car in favor of another platform is why I made the switch. During the process of converting back to the stock ECU I converted over some of the things I was having the Haltech control and made them compatible with the stock ecu. I guess now that I made all of the systems compatible with the stock ECU it would be less of a hassle to switch back and forth. I spent so much time on the tune that it really was a solid experience with the exception of some minor glitches with cold start. I found at least 3-4 software bugs, but Haltech was always very good at taking my input and addressing the issues. Something to be said for logged load or logged boost actually corresponding to your maps and your boost gauge . I think once I get these scaling issues resolved I will be less inclined to swap back to the Haltech.
I decided to see how my AFR changes were taken in the tune and I am almost there. I went ~75% of the way so I should have a flat 11.5:1 AFR next time out. You see the boost ramps up hard to about 18psi and then starts to taper? This will be eliminated once I switch the boost controller to High Boost (33-34psi) and you will see it hits ~30psi before it starts to taper.
Feb 4, 2019, 10:53 AM
should that have been 1/32" 347 rod?
. I think once I get these scaling issues resolved I will be less inclined to swap back to the Haltech.
