I didn't because of reading a post that Buschur made in highboostforum about breaking in an engine. He said it wasn't needed, and I went with his decision.

Anyways, I'll work on getting a video. My roommate is working on a finals project currently so it might be a minute unless I can find somewhere to set the phone in the garage.

 

After I figure out this compression issue, and it still doesn't want to start then I'll look into this issue. I appreciate the advice though man!


I don't think I'm having an injector issue after finding out I have no compression in any of the cylinders. If it doesn't want to fire after figuring out the compression problem, I'll definitely look into it.

 

No compression at all would normally be a timing issue. But it would need to be seriously whacked LOL.
Hm....
You're sure the gauge is good? Another member here had bad compression due to a faulty gauge/misuse/etc.

 

I'll be grabbing another gauge tomorrow if one of my friend's can't drop his off just to make sure, and confirm no compression. My timing looks spot on from the pics, no?

 

I don't have a clue what else it could be. Recheck compression, if still zero, pop the valve cover and have a look. Does it crank like normal? starter goes chirp chirp chirp? As opposed to sound like a lambo, which just goes zzzzzzzzeeeeeeeeeeee?

 

I'll recheck compression in the morning, I already popped the valve cover off like 3 times in the last two days. Some lifters are able to be pressed down by hand and others are solid but I'm pretty sure that's because of the position of the cams (kelford 272's)

*Also I have a kiggly HLA but that shouldnt affect the amount of oil the lifters get just everything else, correct?

 

The lifters will rattle like crazy until they fill up. That's not your issue, though. The springs keep the valves closed.

 

Did you install new valves? Happen to install intake in exhaust and vice versa? Stupid question. But it has happened...

 

Maybe it has something to do with my cam gears and my timing causing my valves to be open just enough but I'm 1/2 tooth advanced perfectly I think except that's just a ballpark. Maybe I should try to align my cam gears on the timing mark and see if that changes anything.

 

I just cleaned up my OEM valves, but I'm going to check and see if I have a pic of the valves installed.

Almost certain I put the exhaust valves in the back and intake valve in the front

 

get a vacuum gauge that is used for measuring valve seat seal. Take the manifolds off, turn the engine so that a set of valves is "off the cam" and then measure valve seat seal for that set of valves... this will give you the answer on the state of valves..

 

if the valves are too long they will never close. we had that happen on a 406 we built. the heads were machined but the machine shop forgot to trim the valve stems on a cylinder, so the car wouldn't run.

just tossing that out there to support that theory of it being valves. very possible.

 

Is this the same thing as a leak down test?

 

There wasn't any machine work on the head and I used my oem valves.

 

a leakdown test will also let you know if the valves aren't sealing