That's what it seems to be, half tooth advanced. I don't know if it is possible to retard a mivec gear. Maybe it just needs ecu tuning. I am sure Tom can tell how to "fix" this.

But here is a link about adjusting a cam with adjustable cam gear. The picture is about non mivec intake cam, but you can see how you should adjust your exhaust cam about 3.75 degrees retarted. So the zero mark between the A and R (inner gear) is pointing to the valve cover timing mark. You just can't do it without adjustable cam gear, buy a one

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-8-9-a-21.html

 

Tom got back to me after I sent him another pic of the cam gear timing mark and he says that it looked fine.

 

i guess you could.... but i'd imagine if you advance/retard the gear, the sensor will have the ECU compensating back to normal?

 

with stock gears i believe they are both advanced 1/2 tooth. Aaron@ER posted and said to modify the mivec gear and retard mivec gear 1 tooth and the exh gear 3.75 deg.

 

Hope you figure it out because I'm going to be assembling my 2.4 LR build in the next few days!

Does the Mivec cam gear HAVE to be modified to make it work, or does it just allow for more flexibility?

Even if this was a cam angle issue, would it cause the engine to completely not start and have no compression?

 

I sent a PM to Aaron @ ER for some clarification and I'm guessing Tom will email me back sometime later tonight or early tomorrow if I had to guess. I'll do some searching again regarding timing marks but everything I've read was 1/2 tooth advanced.

I just started going back to work since getting clearance after I had surgery so progress will be slow. I'm thinking about having it towed to driven fab by the weekend if I can't troubleshoot it.

 

1/2 - 1 tooth off will not cause zero compression with no start. You have a larger issue. A guy in the vegas evo's group had his car jump a tooth on both cams after not setting the timing belt tensioner correctly. It still ran OK, just a little rough at idle. And it definitely had a lot more than zero compression.

 

So just got a PM from Aaron, he suggests I do a leak down test and go from there (more than likely pull it apart again). He did tell me how he times everything which is a little different than 1/2 tooth advanced for both gears but it involves an adjustable gear (Tom Stout, you hit it on the head)

 

As I stated initially it seems as if all of your valves are being held open somehow. My problem was that I used GSC zero tick lifters. I had 0 compresion across all 4 cylinders. sounds like you installed your valves backwards (int in exh and vice versa) or don't have a head gasket.

Even bent valves or some being held open somehow would still give you some sort of compression.

 

What did your lifters do that caused 0 psi? Were they not fully bled?

 

i've filled mine with diesel, left them empty, etc. i've never had a set of lifters give me 0 compression. i could be wrong but i can't see how this would make a difference. if they weren't filled yet, it would just be noisy but valves would close just fine. if they all stuck open then i would think all valves would be bent. that would be crazy

i'm brain is still stuck on the valves being too long, given all the other info so far and not being there to check things first-hand.

the mystery has my curiosity LOL

 

The gsc lifters are actually taller than oem. When I installed them they were keeping the valves open somehow. I've read other stories of the same thing happening. Swapped in oem and she fired right up.

 

wow. that IS strange. i've used three sets with no issues. i remember them being nearly identical to my OEM ones to the point i had a hard time telling a difference without inspecting closely. but it's been a while and maybe i'm remembering it wrong.
if they were too tall then the valves would stay open, of course. bummer. that would be beyond frustrating, given the time wasted before figuring out the problem.

 

where is the crank angle sensor

 

Next to the crank. What's up with the thread jack?