WhiteHat

Is it possible for the crank trigger plate to be backwards. I understand it is keyed but would timing be off if it was flipped? Thanks!

For reference...http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...gger_plate.htm

Ev0ikon

iTrader: (18)

Yes. And it will cause the car to run poorly.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

If you put it on backwards, and timed the cams to it, the crank is going to be about 60* off of top dead center because the notch for TDC is in the wrong spot. Double check this before starting your engine if you have doubt. You will likely get piston to valve contact if you attempt to start the engine...

WhiteHat

Thanks guys, that was the issue, not sure how i flipped it in the first place And no I didn't time it based on it being flipped, but thanks for the heads up anyways

poonpower

Ok so how is the plate supposed to be?? My car just will not turn over at all. And Im literally down to checking timing. Timing belt changed and it wont start. I checked timing before install and it was good

WhiteHat

When I had the plate backwards it still fired and idled fine. Unless it being backwards had broke your crank position sensor, I'm not sure it being backwards would cause that.

c4s3ys

iTrader: (1)

Bringing this back from the dead! If it's backwards will the car still run and drive? I'm having problems where I hit boost I lean out and feels like fuel cut? Also dies when I let off gas after car is completely warmed up. Could this cause this? I found my cam disruptor backwards. Already changed that.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

No, car will not run or drive if it's backwards. They usually don't run or drive if the cam one is backwards.

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Is the crank plate is in backwards it will rub against your timing belt and chances are the car wont be able to turn over without significant interference.

c4s3ys

iTrader: (1)

Alright. So I got something else going on and have no idea what it is. Thanks guys.

Biggiesacks

start with the basics, do a boost leak test. Who knows, maybe you have a problem and are over boosting and hitting fuel cut. Also you might have other issues that will be revealed by a boost leak test contributing to your idling problems. Next thing on my list would be spark plugs.

Getting it to idle properly would be my 1st goal, in fixing that you will probably uncover your other issue. If you can give more details and context we will probably be able to give you some more stuff to look into. Could be tune, could be mechanical/electrical etc but not enough info.

c4s3ys

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I just didn't wanna hijack the OP. But it will start in the mornings if I give it gas. Then it'll idle just fine around 1100rpm on a ams f1 intake and 75mm boomba throttle body. I can drive to work fine just can't hit boost or it leans out. I have a new 255 main and a 450 on a hobbs around 12psi. -8an feed and -6 return. Fuel pressure is 38 on the fpr. I have duel waste gates the top hole for the wastegates is t together then goes to the left side of the 3 port. The bottoms holes t together also with the turbo port then goes to the right side of the 3 port the middle of the 3 port is a breather.

Last few days my wideband is crazy. From 12 lean 12 lean 12 lean idles lean. Also has new spark plugs and I checked the iac if it was working.

Biggiesacks

MAF or SD?

c4s3ys

iTrader: (1)

Sd

Biggiesacks

I've seen alot of people having problems with MAP sensors dying on them, I would be highly suspicious of that potential issue. If I where you I would try swapping in a known good / new one and see if that fixes it. I don't usually advocate buying stuff you might not need, but seeing how unreliable MAP sensors can be I would want a hot spare ready to go anyway.