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High RPM oil pump options - straight cut?

Old Aug 10, 2016 | 09:34 AM
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High RPM oil pump options - straight cut?

What's everyone doing to their oil pumps for high rpms? My last setup was spinning to 9k on a 2.0 but it seemed to still make decent power. Unfortunately, I spun a bearing and changed setups. I went to a bigger turbo and will probably be taking the engine up to 10k or 10.5k.

With the exception of going dry sump, what are people doing for oil pump reliability? I know the English Racing oil pump sprocket is an option, but I'm also hearing people mention straight cut and polished oem oil pump gear while staying with the oem sprocket.

Who has done this? Who offers this service? And who can point me in the right direction to get this done? Does it use a 1g DSM oil pump gear?

Thanks!
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Old Aug 11, 2016 | 01:20 PM
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I know frontline fab is working on a billet unit that is a masterpiece. You should look into it. The pump should be done soon.... Hopefully.
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Old Aug 11, 2016 | 07:59 PM
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I saw that too but honestly don't have time to wait and have no idea what the price tag of that is. I know people are revving to 10k plus now and not all are dry sump so there has to be something working for them
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 08:14 AM
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Magnus has 15% off the dry sump if you can't find anything else....
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 09:01 AM
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Have you looked into shot peening and cryo treating? Maybe an option. Certainly far less expensive.
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 09:26 AM
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I don't think there are othe roil pump gears that last longer. Best bet will be the English racing oil pump gear, and try shot peening and treating the OEM gears. Also, get an upgraded oil pan. If you're running road course, go with the Racefab. If you're just drag racing, the Moroso/AMS pan will work.
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 12:01 PM
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for such high rpm dry sump is the way to go
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Old Aug 13, 2016 | 03:16 AM
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I've always wondered about this.
The factory oil pump gears are helical cut, which reduces noise but generals axial loads and causes the spur gears to eat into the side housings.
The Evo 1-3 4G63 engines use straight cut gears, and have much less problems.
Why not use straight cut gears to reduce oil pump failures on the Evo 4-9 platform?

Cheers, Mike
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Old Aug 13, 2016 | 03:32 AM
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at 10K rpm the problem is not side load but the fact that the pump is running way above its designed rpm range.. Smaller pump gear is running at 2x the crank rpm... The pump needs slowing down and ER gear is way to go if you want to stick to stock oil pump but I'd be looking into dry sump..
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Old Aug 13, 2016 | 12:02 PM
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What's your setup that requires such high rpm?

I saw MAP advertising a dry sump kit also.
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Old Aug 14, 2016 | 09:12 AM
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I would LOVE to hear the noise from a straight-cut oil gear.
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Old Aug 14, 2016 | 11:21 AM
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I just got a new oem gear and had it polished up for my build. No point in going fancy stuff being its pretty useless. Dry sump would be a good idea, but pricey. I thought about drysump myself but after talking with a few people decided to go against it and just get new gears for the oil pump and have them polished out.
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Old Aug 14, 2016 | 03:36 PM
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depends on the type of driving.. I dont consider a build that is going to rev to 10.5 to be cheap, and dry sump will be a drop in the ocean considering everything... will bring some power too..
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Old Aug 20, 2016 | 10:09 AM
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Last setup was a 2.0 with a 6266, s3 cams, cnc ported head and +2mm valves running 43-45psi. Shifting at 9k, it was still holding power good til redline. The new setup is a forward facing s369sx-e which is basically a non efr 9180. I'd like to rev it to 10k or 10.5k to have a broader powerband and keep me from shifting into 5th.
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Old Aug 20, 2016 | 10:12 AM
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If you're just going to use the rpm to run 4th out the top of the 1/4 or 1/2, it's probably not as big of a deal. But I would still be considering a large oil pan/sump, the ER oil pump pulley, etc..
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