Help!!! Multiple issues
#1
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Help!!! Multiple issues
I've been all over the forums, all over the net, went over every misfire, boost leak thread. Still can't fix my problem. I have a 06 evo 9 mr. I have uicp, licp, custom cop kit using honda/acura coils, mac ebc, 4" fmic, arashi 25g turbo, fic 1450, walbro 450, o2 dump, tbe, no cat, tuned on stock ecu, e85, aem boost gauge and aem wideband, stock ported exhaust mani (was told it was buschur ported), hks exhaust camshaft, arp head bolts, egr delete, speed density, no air filter (using screen mesh).
Ok so it started with not being able to hit target boost. This is gonna go all over the place. I was only able to hit 21-22 psi. Fixed all boost leaks except area around the throttlebody. Wasn't hitting full boost until 5k rpms. Hit 24 psi 2x on separate runs and spiked to 27 psi @ redline so I let off both times. Car ran smooth though. Afr's were perfect. Seafoamed the car and saw smoke from the exhaust mani and head mating area. Replaced my stock exhaust mani with the ported buschur exhaust mani, redid seafoam n no more smoke except from the tail pipe. Car drove smoother than it's ever been. Did one pull on the way to my tuner n Hit boost and same psi 20-21 psi only.
Got to my tuner, let the car cool down for 30 mins n did a compression test 90,90,110,90. Did another boost leak test n fixed them all except the one coming from around the throttlebody area. We could hear it but couldn't locate the exact spot of where it was leaking from. No bubbles around the throttle but we could hear the hiss from behind it. My tuner tweaked my map n I took it for a spin, afr's were in the low 12s but had a simple misfire @ 4-5k rpms. Didn't pay attention to psi at this point, was more focused on afr's n the misfire. Went back n had the map re tweaked, afr's were good but still had the misifre. It would just be one or two slow pops. Re gapped the denso one step colder plugs to .020 n it got worse. Now it was a extremely rapid misfire at wot @ 4-5k rpms. Car didn't kick hard, just misfired like crazy and had a lack of power but no jerking of any kind. At this point I was too frustrated bec I'd been working on the car for 4 hours and it's now dark outside and that's where we were working on our cars. So I drove it home n when I go wot I get A massive misfire without the violent kicks from the car n it feels like it's just stumbling. This sucks big time. I have no access to a leak down tester, but I just ordered a fb70mm tb hoping to eliminate all my leaks and I'll put in new plugs gaping them to .022. That's all I have for now. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I know it's not a tuning issue, it's mechanical, maybe I messed up something on the re assembly of my coils but I triple checked everything. Maybe I need some new boots for my stock coils so I can put them back on n see if that'll help me? Idk?
Ok so it started with not being able to hit target boost. This is gonna go all over the place. I was only able to hit 21-22 psi. Fixed all boost leaks except area around the throttlebody. Wasn't hitting full boost until 5k rpms. Hit 24 psi 2x on separate runs and spiked to 27 psi @ redline so I let off both times. Car ran smooth though. Afr's were perfect. Seafoamed the car and saw smoke from the exhaust mani and head mating area. Replaced my stock exhaust mani with the ported buschur exhaust mani, redid seafoam n no more smoke except from the tail pipe. Car drove smoother than it's ever been. Did one pull on the way to my tuner n Hit boost and same psi 20-21 psi only.
Got to my tuner, let the car cool down for 30 mins n did a compression test 90,90,110,90. Did another boost leak test n fixed them all except the one coming from around the throttlebody area. We could hear it but couldn't locate the exact spot of where it was leaking from. No bubbles around the throttle but we could hear the hiss from behind it. My tuner tweaked my map n I took it for a spin, afr's were in the low 12s but had a simple misfire @ 4-5k rpms. Didn't pay attention to psi at this point, was more focused on afr's n the misfire. Went back n had the map re tweaked, afr's were good but still had the misifre. It would just be one or two slow pops. Re gapped the denso one step colder plugs to .020 n it got worse. Now it was a extremely rapid misfire at wot @ 4-5k rpms. Car didn't kick hard, just misfired like crazy and had a lack of power but no jerking of any kind. At this point I was too frustrated bec I'd been working on the car for 4 hours and it's now dark outside and that's where we were working on our cars. So I drove it home n when I go wot I get A massive misfire without the violent kicks from the car n it feels like it's just stumbling. This sucks big time. I have no access to a leak down tester, but I just ordered a fb70mm tb hoping to eliminate all my leaks and I'll put in new plugs gaping them to .022. That's all I have for now. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I know it's not a tuning issue, it's mechanical, maybe I messed up something on the re assembly of my coils but I triple checked everything. Maybe I need some new boots for my stock coils so I can put them back on n see if that'll help me? Idk?
#2
EvoM Community Team Leader
test the ignition coils
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Tommyfacekicker (Feb 23, 2017)
#3
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
I kinda tried to test the coils but idk if I was doing it correctly. Can't remeber what setting on the ohms I put it to but they all came out with the same numbers the way I was testing them. I tested some other coils off of my 01 acura mdx and the numbers were pretty close to mines. My coils came from a 01 acura cl v6. Can u tell me the correct settings and the correct way to test them? Which pins go to positive and negative ? Acura doesn't help much on the net. Not very much info on how to test their coils.
#4
EvoM Community Team Leader
So this is the procedure for the stock coils, but since these other coils are basically plug and play i would assume the test should be basically the same. Now you may have to translate the pin numbers from the mitsu plug to the honda.
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Tommyfacekicker (Feb 23, 2017)
#5
EvoM Community Team Leader
iTrader: (60)
Why did your tuner agree to tune the car with a boost leak? You gotta fix that stuff first. If the leak is bad, that could explain the slow spool (I assume your turbo should spool sooner).
Since your problem is intermittent, I'd say you have other issues. I once had a bad turbo that presented with erratic boost. The wheel was hitting the housing and it made for slow spool and inconsistent boost levels. Have you checked the turbo?
As for the misfire, have you tried swapping back to stock coils?
Since your problem is intermittent, I'd say you have other issues. I once had a bad turbo that presented with erratic boost. The wheel was hitting the housing and it made for slow spool and inconsistent boost levels. Have you checked the turbo?
As for the misfire, have you tried swapping back to stock coils?
#6
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Why did your tuner agree to tune the car with a boost leak? You gotta fix that stuff first. If the leak is bad, that could explain the slow spool (I assume your turbo should spool sooner).
Since your problem is intermittent, I'd say you have other issues. I once had a bad turbo that presented with erratic boost. The wheel was hitting the housing and it made for slow spool and inconsistent boost levels. Have you checked the turbo?
As for the misfire, have you tried swapping back to stock coils?
Since your problem is intermittent, I'd say you have other issues. I once had a bad turbo that presented with erratic boost. The wheel was hitting the housing and it made for slow spool and inconsistent boost levels. Have you checked the turbo?
As for the misfire, have you tried swapping back to stock coils?
I kinda forced my tuner to tune my car regardless of the leaks. I know it's dumb of me but I was being selfish. I wanted to go out n smash. The turbo is brand new, no play n yea it's suppose to spool quickly. I gave my stock coil boots away so now I gotta re order some. That's gonna be on it's way to me in a few days. I wanna be able to hit 33 psi when this is all fixed. Then if my engine goes boom, at least I got to enjoy the car for a little bit. I'm so frustrated. I bought this car almost 2 years ago n only been smashing on it a bout 10 times since I owned it.
#7
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
My tuner is great. He's a very smart young man. He does what he can to help our community. He's the best tuner I've been to n I've been to a lot of tuners all around ca. He's very knowledgable.
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#8
EvoM Community Team Leader
iTrader: (60)
No need to defend your tuner. You trust him, that's what matters.
Can your turbo do 30+ psi?
Off the top of my head, inconsistent boost could be:
Turbo (New means nothing. Ask MAP Also, it's a no-name turbo that you may want to trash, anyway)
WGA
boost solenoid/boost controller
Tune
Maybe someone else could chime in.
Your not using spark plugs for an VIII, are you? They are a different size And tend to "blow out ".
unless you are shooting for 500+whp, I'd also go back to stock heat range ( not part of your problem, but no need to run a cold plug ).
Can your turbo do 30+ psi?
Off the top of my head, inconsistent boost could be:
Turbo (New means nothing. Ask MAP Also, it's a no-name turbo that you may want to trash, anyway)
WGA
boost solenoid/boost controller
Tune
Maybe someone else could chime in.
Your not using spark plugs for an VIII, are you? They are a different size And tend to "blow out ".
unless you are shooting for 500+whp, I'd also go back to stock heat range ( not part of your problem, but no need to run a cold plug ).
#9
Evolved Member
iTrader: (4)
compression test 90,90,110,90
Also, you were mislead on the FB TB... Read my latest reply in my thread on the skunk 2, and that tells you why. Maybe it works for people, but you will always have a slight hunt for idle, and occasional low idle, because of that type of TB.
Also what gen is your Arashi? Side note, those are replicas made of Tomei Arms Turbo's...Just an FYI. The early revisions had a manufacturing defect that caused inconsistent boost issues. I have the TD0620G sitting new in my garage in factory oil bag unopened, as a warranty replacement for the early revision I purchased 4 years ago. It is the corrected revision to the porting on the housing. Not sure how old on revision of yours. Ill sell it to you cheap.
Carry on.
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Tommyfacekicker (Feb 24, 2017)
#10
Account Disabled
Every one of your modifications has the potential to cause a problem.
So where do you start?
The first one?
Everything affects everything else.
What's a uicp?
What's the other thing?
Custom COP?
Don't need it .
Get rid of it.
By the time it's back to stock, it'll run better than it's done for years.
Then you can try to modify it?
#11
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
No need to defend your tuner. You trust him, that's what matters.
Can your turbo do 30+ psi?
Off the top of my head, inconsistent boost could be:
Turbo (New means nothing. Ask MAP Also, it's a no-name turbo that you may want to trash, anyway)
WGA
boost solenoid/boost controller
Tune
Maybe someone else could chime in.
Your not using spark plugs for an VIII, are you? They are a different size And tend to "blow out ".
unless you are shooting for 500+whp, I'd also go back to stock heat range ( not part of your problem, but no need to run a cold plug ).
Can your turbo do 30+ psi?
Off the top of my head, inconsistent boost could be:
Turbo (New means nothing. Ask MAP Also, it's a no-name turbo that you may want to trash, anyway)
WGA
boost solenoid/boost controller
Tune
Maybe someone else could chime in.
Your not using spark plugs for an VIII, are you? They are a different size And tend to "blow out ".
unless you are shooting for 500+whp, I'd also go back to stock heat range ( not part of your problem, but no need to run a cold plug ).
#12
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Every one of your modifications has the potential to cause a problem.
So where do you start?
The first one?
Everything affects everything else.
What's a uicp?
What's the other thing?
Custom COP?
Don't need it .
Get rid of it.
By the time it's back to stock, it'll run better than it's done for years.
Then you can try to modify it?
So where do you start?
The first one?
Everything affects everything else.
What's a uicp?
What's the other thing?
Custom COP?
Don't need it .
Get rid of it.
By the time it's back to stock, it'll run better than it's done for years.
Then you can try to modify it?
Uicp = upper intercooler piping. You are rite about returning it back to stock n then starting over. That's on my to do list as of rite now. But I was hoping that someone might have or might have had these similar issues and maybe learn from this or give us the helpful info on how to fix this. I figured it's 2017 so the car has been around for 11 years now so maybe there would be some gurus out there that can help me.
This really pisses me off. I'm thinking nose plant into a pole = fixed by April.
#13
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
I'd look at that. That seems low.
Also, you were mislead on the FB TB... Read my latest reply in my thread on the skunk 2, and that tells you why. Maybe it works for people, but you will always have a slight hunt for idle, and occasional low idle, because of that type of TB.
Also what gen is your Arashi? Side note, those are replicas made of Tomei Arms Turbo's...Just an FYI. The early revisions had a manufacturing defect that caused inconsistent boost issues. I have the TD0620G sitting new in my garage in factory oil bag unopened, as a warranty replacement for the early revision I purchased 4 years ago. It is the corrected revision to the porting on the housing. Not sure how old on revision of yours. Ill sell it to you cheap.
Carry on.
Also, you were mislead on the FB TB... Read my latest reply in my thread on the skunk 2, and that tells you why. Maybe it works for people, but you will always have a slight hunt for idle, and occasional low idle, because of that type of TB.
Also what gen is your Arashi? Side note, those are replicas made of Tomei Arms Turbo's...Just an FYI. The early revisions had a manufacturing defect that caused inconsistent boost issues. I have the TD0620G sitting new in my garage in factory oil bag unopened, as a warranty replacement for the early revision I purchased 4 years ago. It is the corrected revision to the porting on the housing. Not sure how old on revision of yours. Ill sell it to you cheap.
Carry on.
#14
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
My compression seems very low but the hks exhaust cam might be playing into that factor also. And I bought the car without knowing it had the cam in it w arp head bolts so I can't really do n e thing about it. I'm gonna gap my denso ikh24's down to .016 n see how it goes today. I'll update.
#15
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
I will be putting back my stock coils as soon as my new boots get here.