I agree that proper crankcase ventilation is huge when it comes to oil consumption, but only under heavy loads is when it's a big problem. The issue the OP is having is mostly during start up/ cold engine. So it's more than likely not the cause in this case. Lots of engines don't even use positive crankcase ventilation and control oil usage just fine. A proper sized vent to atmosphere is just fine.

Oil usage under low load conditions is usually due to rings or valve seals or turbo damaged. If the car only uses oil when the oil temp is cold, then 99% chance he has damaged rings. Scraper/oil control rings have trouble with cold oil. Also if you using 20/50 oil it makes things even worse. Turbo would burn more oil as it heated up, but sometimes a big puff of smoke on startup.
Now I'll probably get bashed for saying this, but it sounds like Fred was right this time.
They did find a major issue with the guide seal being bad that was at least 50% of the problem. Let's try to keep an open mind and not let egos get in the way.
Everybody has opinions and they are not always the same as ours, if we can agree to disagree and all get along we're going in the right direction.

Cheers, 2win

 

Only one way to find out, put the larger vents in!

 

When the car was being tuned I noticed when he was shifting on the dyno (in between shifts) it would puff a good little cloud of smoke out. But when under load it wasn't there.

im really hoping its not rings. Hoping there is still some oil residue in exhaust and it will get pushed out over next few days or so.

If I pull the downpipe, I should be able to see if the turbo is coated in oil in that area right? That would tell me if its my turbo?

edit- I just really really don't think it's the pcv issue. the car has been at 500whp level for a while and never gave me a problem with crankcase pressure. I've never blown dipstick out, etc. my tuner doesn't think so either. there are plenty of stock block 500whp evos utilizing the stock pcv breather system without issue. I see mainly those issues tend to begin upwards of 600whp

 

When you start blowing the dipstick out the engine isn't happy and its too late.
I'd lean toward the turbocharger ( FP performs great but some have oil issues) if the tune hasn't been pushed too hard ( Everyone wants to pack too much timing into them ) and the stock engine was in good shape. Leak down/compression are good.

I'd recommend the following in this order.
-10 on the driver side of the V/C to a large baffled can then back to the intake pipe. Stock pcv
5-40 oil of your choice (Rotella syn is fine if you aren't doing road course days, if you are a 10-40 brad penn or equivalent is good) 20-50 isn't needed at your level and thick oil drains worse out of the turbo
Increase idle speed to 1150-1250 to create a better vacuum and keep crankcase pressure down.
Oil drain needs to be clean/unobstructed.
Drive car below 3500 until the oil gets to 160* The 4g63 makes alot of oil pressure,even more when cold.

Restrict turbo slightly more.
Have turbo inspected by fp

 

So I just did compression test....

Engine at operating temp,

Cylinders 2-4 were all ~115psi

Cylinder 1, first time the needle didn't move at all, so I tried again and it got up to about 60 psi.

i did about 7-8 cranks on each cylinder

also, fwiw, the gauge used was one my stepfather had in his garage. It's definitely older but it's a quality MAC Tools gauge.

 

I'd suggest trying a second gauge. Those numbers are kinda crazy.

 

Try a different tester, you're car wouldn't even run all that well with 60psi in one cylinder.

 

If it was 60psi the engine should sound clearly like its missing a hole. Did you disconnect the crank sensor so that fuel wouldn't be injected while the test was being performed? Its located next to oil cap, a triangular connector. Excess fuel could effect the readings.

I'd run the engine again to get the fuel out and then perform the test again with someone making sure the gauge is tight in the cylinder and not leaking there as you crank it. If it reads the same on the other 3 cylinders and isn't leaking that should tell the story. You could also try another gauge.

Were you tuning the car?

 

I will try another tester tonight and report back.

And no, I did not disconnect the crank sensor. I will do that when I re-test tonight. No I'm not tuning the car. I had it retuned last week

 

How did you keep the car from starting during your test?
not DCing the crank sensor is most likely your problem. The car was spraying fuel unless you pulled a fuse, etc

 

I just disconnected all of spark plug wires, removed all plugs and did each cylinder 1 by 1? Followed that Asian dude with the black evo that's fairly popular On youtube's diy video.

 

As far as I know, that won't stop the fuel, but I could be wrong.
pull the plug, then do the test. You will have a CEL after, but it will eventually go away if you don't clear it your self.

 

It won't stop fuel, you need to unplug the crank sensor. That won't really low readings though. I think the gauge is just wonky.

 

Redid the test just now with a new gauge. All cylinders 120psi *wipes forehead*. I know the numbers are low still. If I understand right though, the consistency of the numbers are more important than the actual number itself? Can someone elaborate on that for me

 

Yes, being equal (or close to) is most important. The IX has lower comp numbers than the VIII and it can be lower, still, if you have cams.